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You can connect photo eye white wire to ground wire, and it will work, since each hot wire in 240V circuit carries 110V to ground. But this installation is not code. It is not necessarily dangerous if you are only person working on electric circuits, and you remember what you did, and don't work inside main box without turning off power.
Hi Augie, I'm an electrician and can help you with this problem.
First, a couple of notes. You must provide GFCI protection for a fixture (light, fan, etc.) in a shower under any of the following conditions: 1) If the manufacturer specifies this protection in this location (nearly every fan in a shower requires this protection), 2) If the local / state electrical code requires it (the National Electric Code does not have such a requirement) and 3) If the local wiring inspector requires it. You can argue with the inspector if there is no local / state requirement - but is usually not worth the effort.
Next, cautionary notes: Nuisance tripping of GFCI devices have nearly been eliminated in newer fixtures and small motor loads. Some older fluorescent fixtures and larger motor loads may cause some trouble - but that's about it especially if an inspector is requiring the protection (this happens pretty often). If a newer light fixture is tripping a GFCI device - something is wrong. This should be fully checked out before powering it again. There is a very real potential for shock or burns under the right conditions. Use extreme caution here. Maybe a new fixture is in order??
Finally, to your question. Most GFCI outlets have LINE and LOAD terminals. This means that anything connected to the LOAD terminals will have the benefit of GFCI protection. The line terminals however, are not protected.
If you connect the circuit that you do NOT want to have GFCI protection to the wires that will be connected to the LINE terminals, no GFCI protection will be afforded to them.
The circuit that you DO wish to have GFCI protection should be connected to the LOAD terminals. Since you can not secure two wires to a terminal, you will need to connect a short length (8") of insulated wire to each of the line terminal screws (silver and gold screws) and connect the other end to the wires that supply power to this GFCI outlet *and* the wires that will provide non-GFCI protected power to the light fixture through the switch; with wirenuts.
Basically, the jumper from the outlet to the switch can not come from the LOAD terminal - instead it must come before the protection - from the wire that brings "hot" power to the LINE terminal side. The same holds true for the white neutral wire that connects to the fixture; it can not come from the LOAD terminal - it must come from the wire that brings "neutral" power to the LINE terminal of the GFCI outlet.
I hope this helps and good luck! If you have more questions - ask away.
Fist, make sure the bulbs are good. Check in another fixture to verify that they indeed work. Since the remote works the fan, dead batteries can be ruled out. The problem will be confined to either a bad receiver in the fixture, or a bad remote.
Since Hampton Bay is a line carried by Home Depot, you may have some luck bringing your remote to HD and trying it out on the display units. You may need to try different address settings on the remote to find one that works if you don't get results the first time. This is usually several two position switches often called "DIP Switches". Change the positions of them one at a time until you find one that works. Try to control a fan first. Once you find a fan the reacts to the commands from the remote, try to control the light. If the light doesn't work - the remote has a bad transmitter or light switch control. You could attempt to disassemble the switch, but most don't have parts that look different when they're bad. You'll probably have to replace the remote.
If the lights work, then the problem is with your fixture. You can remove or simply bypass the radio controller in the fixture and install an after market receiver and remote to control it again. These are sold at Home Depot and work with any paddle fan.
use the same as when you took it down, white is neutral, red is power from switch, green is ground, look at wiring for new chandelier instructions should tell you what goes where, if al else fails get an electrician to wire for you
You can't, not without running an additional wire. The black and white pair of wires that you have is most likely routed from the ceiling fixture. The black wire would be the hot wire coming to the switch and the white is the switched hot wire returning to the fixture. You don't have a neutral available at this location, so you can't make the outlet work, just the switch.
Sorry for the bad news. Thanks for using fixya.
You should run a short "jumper" wire from the same screw that the light fixture's wire is on to the brass screw at the outlet. If you put the jumper on the OTHER side of the switch, the outlet will be always on.