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I need the schematics or at least the chip number on the IC Output circuit, can you help me?

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I open my b212a and disconnected the speaker and horn wires and know i have completed my repair i am read to reconnect and i don't remember which set of wires are the positive side


Because the system is bi-amplified, it is important to replace the wires correctly to avoid phase problems. I don't know how the wires are colour coded, but if it is any help I downloaded the schematic and the wires are numbered 1: Woofer Active 2: Woofer Earth
3: Tweeter Earth and 4: Tweeter Active. Sorry if that's no help. Otherwise it should be easy to trace the wires to see which connect to earth.

Dec 12, 2013 | Behringer Eurolive B212A Speaker

1 Answer

I have a creative subwoofer which I replaced the two ICs thinking that they were the problem,but now the two speakers dont give out sound but the subwoofer one gives out an outburst of a buzzing sound...


Do not replace a part until you have proved with a signal and circuit test that there is absence of amplification. So I would suggest that you replace the original IC back to the circuit so that we start allover again.
Now you will need a signal tester- an audio frequency( AF) testor so that you can apply the signal and trace. Check the power to the subwoofer output and the main outputs. If present check with signal , check the parameters of the IC to confirm if there is amplification and BIAS to the circuit.
Once confirmed check the feeder resisitors,capacitors, check if any of them is open/short. If not recheck IC and replace once again from original source of spares.

Sep 16, 2011 | Creative Labs Speakers & Subwoofers

1 Answer

My surrounf sound system keeps saying protect


It is not so easy to probe into to find a protection fault condition. The fault can be your output drivers- the MOSFETS/IC's fitted for both the channels, Use a meter after disconnecting to check for short in the drivers. Disconnect the positive and negative voltages to the output and see if the protect changes. Even a fault in the preamp stages that drives in high current into the output can shut the Amplifier. Sometimes this can be a noise like a HUM or HISS before the protect works. Faulty capacitors in these circuits also can cause similar issues and needs close observation.
You need to confirm and replace the specific stages or outputs. If not there can be issues in the mother board, maybe the protect circuit by itself is shutting off due to a faulty bias , maybe a leak in any voltage/current sensing circuit. Also disconnect the speakers and test, if the protect is off then check for short on the speakers.

Jul 08, 2011 | Speakers & Subwoofers

1 Answer

65a Resolv studio monitors. The left one just blew out -- maybe. The blue LED stays dim, as though the monitor has been sleeping. When I power off the monitor, the speaker gives a loud pop, and the cone...


You are getting DC offset voltage on one of your amplifiers that is the reason the speaker pushes out and you might be hearing a humming noise too. Do not turn on the speakers till you get it fixed or else you would end up burning the speaker voice coil too.The dim blue LED is also an indication of a short circuit in the output stage.
Your left amplifier needs a output chip (IC ) replacement. You will need professional help to do that. Will cost you about 20$ plus service charges.

Jun 27, 2011 | Samson Resolv 65a Main / Stereo Speaker

1 Answer

My home theater system will not come on at all.


It is not so easy to probe into to find a protection fault condition. The fault can be your output drivers- the MOSFETS/IC's fitted for both the channels, Use a meter after disconnecting to check for short in the drivers. Disconnect the positive and negative voltages to the output and see if the protect changes. Even a fault in the preamp stages that drives in high current into the output can shut the Amplifier. Sometimes this can be a noise like a HUM or HISS before the protect works. Faulty capacitors in these circuits also can cause similar issues and needs close observation.
You need to confirm and replace the specific stages or outputs. If not there can be issues in the mother board, maybe the protect circuit by itself is shutting off due to a faulty bias , maybe a leak in any voltage/current sensing circuit. Also disconnect the speakers and test, if the protect is off then check for short on the speakers.

Jun 17, 2011 | Durabrand HT-3915 System

1 Answer

I have yamaha ampifier430w and it can switch ON,


hello,

First check that any muting control is not activated. This might be a button on the remote or set itself. If you have a headphone jack, it may have dirty contacts as plugging in a headphone usually mutes the speaker.

Test the loudspeaker by disconnecting one of the wires (with the power off!) and measuring its resistance with an ohmmeter (it should be less than 100 ohms - probably less than 8 ohms). Or momentarily touch a 1.5 volt battery to the speaker terminals - you should get a click or pop from the speaker.

Next, trace back from the speaker output terminals to the circuit board and look for bad solder connections or a loose or dirty connector.

If these tests do not reveal anything, you probably need a scope (or audio signal tracer) and schematic. Or at least the part number off of the chip. Is the final amp a chip also or just a transistor? Have you tested the audio transistor? If there is little or no buzz from the speaker, that would indicate a problem fairly near the output. If the tuner/if were bad, I would expect some noise/hum pickup from the low level audio stages. Get the part number off of the chip. If it is in a socket, check the contacts for corrosion or looseness.
Hope this will help...

May 25, 2010 | Yamaha YST-SW320 Subwoofer

1 Answer

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these units use audio power amp IC's. Generally speaking, a failure in audio output stages relates either dry solder joints to the power output stages, or the chip itself has failed. Good indicator is to look at voltages across the chip. If they are all high, or all low, expect it to be blown. If it runs hot, same. if it has a crack, piece missing out of it, a bubble in it, tinning on heatsink tab blistering, it is blown. Sometimes, because so much of the audio stage is inside these chips, needing only millivolts to drive them, replacing the chip after initial inspection for dry solder joints is a normal approach to faultfinding. So you can assume it is blown even. If you really wante to waste some time on it, check the inputs across the bottom of the output stages for signal in. Throw the chip number up here and I will find a source for you. Anything, but please give me a better rating;) Cheers

regards
Graeme

Apr 08, 2008 | Speakers & Subwoofers

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