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Loss of spark on 2001 srx lost all three coils

What is the diagnostic procedure for ohming out the stator? already ruled out kill,key switches

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1. Disconnect AC Magneto Coupler. (Located on right side of sled under the black 2" cooling line)
2. Connect meter. OHM x 1

White/Red - White/Green
189 - 231 OHM at 20 degree C (68 degrees F)

Charge Coil Resistance
White - White
.36 - .44 OHM 20 degree C (68 degrees F)

If out of spec replace.

Posted on Feb 07, 2009

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2001 ktm 300 mxc not getting a spark what would cause not to get a spark


A few things,start simple disconnect the kill switch,remove the spark plug cap from the wire,check all your coneections from the stator to the cdi box to the coil.Still no spark your going to need a multi meter to check the stator and coil.If all this checks out to be good then it is your cdi box.A word of caution test these parts before replacing as they are not returnable and could get costly.A good shop could diagnose your problem in hour time.It may be money well spent if you do not understand your bikes ignition system.

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I have a 1975 Harley SX 250 with a very intermittent spark.


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Changed the CDI, Magneto, and pick up coil, on Kazuma Falcon 90 ATV. Still no spark.please help.


I'm having the same problem with my Kazuma falcon 250. No spark, the stator shows good ohms and I just replaced the CDI box and still nothing. I'll check the kill switch and reverse override.

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1977 dt 175 e and i can't get it to fire i put a new coil and still no spark


My old 73 175 had points, I don't know if yours does. There is also the stator/ magneto. Try disconnecting the kill switch or unplug the key cylinder. There is a more detailed check in the manual. I can't find my old 175 manual but ttr125 says 1) check plug for spark- clean or replace. 2) check entire ignition system for connection. 3) check ignition stop switch. 4) check coil. a- primary coil, b- secondary coil. 5)check cdi coil. a-pickup coil. b- charging coil. Since you have replaced the coil I will only give specs for the cdi check. The picture shows a plug under the tank disconnected. It has four wires brn grn red and wht. To check pick up coil resistance set ohm meter to x 100. attach the plus lead to red and neg. lead to white. It seems to have a short wire in each jaw of the alligator clips of ohmmeter that is pushed into the disconnected plug that contacts appropriate wire color. Reading should be 248 to 372 ohm at 20 degrees C (68 degrees F). Charge coil test places the plus lead of ohmmeter to the brown wire and neg. lead to the green wire of the open plug. Meter at x 100. Reading should be 688 to 1032 ohm at 20degrees C. Of course while doing step 2 check for good grounds and tight connection at plug cap and use a new plug. Good luck.

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What would cause my car to not send spark to the spark plugs


The first thing is do you know when the last time was that the distributor cap, ignition rotor, and spark plug wires were changed?

There is the possibility that the ignition coil is faulty and first check to see if full battery voltage is getting to the "Pos" (+) positive side of the ignition coil when the key is in the "Run" position, and also that full battery voltage is getting through the "Pos" (+) or positive side of the ignition coil and over to the distributor ignition module, dis-connect the wire connector from the ignition module and if battery voltage is not present at the connector to the ignition module with the key in the "Run" position but it is present at the "Pos" side of the ignition coil, then the ignition coil is faulty. If battery voltage is present then check the ohms between the high tension terminal (where the coil wire goes on the ignition coil) and the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil by first dis-connecting the wires from the ignition coil and then test with the "Neg" lead from the ohm meter in the high tension terminal on the ignition coil, and the "Pos" lead from the ohm meter to the the "Pos" terminal on the ignition coil, and the ohm reading should be between 6,000 and 30,000 ohms and if not replace the ignition coil. A faulty ignition coil can also damage the ignition module.

The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems to malfunction.

That could be a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.

If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.

To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.

Let me know if you require a firing order diagram any further assistance with testing or diagnostic procedures.




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