I have 2 punch12'' woofer boxed, one started smoking and the other one does not come on. I giggled the wires, 1 fuse blown, replaced it, now one peaker works, you can hear musicand thump,but not as it sound before and has like a baby rattle echo. the other one still dont work. I pressed the cone in the middle of the speaker i guess it firm like the other one
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Simply put, burned voice coil. Either too much power can do this or not enough power with distortion. solution- if the sound is clear then its too much power- turn the amp down. If the sound is distorted and raspy- its not enough power and your getting distortion-get bigger amp.
If the lights on your sub box aren't coming on it's either your ground of power wire came loose or the transformer blew. As for the subs, make sure all the connections are good, especially on your RCA wires. If your amp is getting power, then check your speaker connections. Also, make sure to turn the gain know up. The gain knob is located next to the RCA input on the amp. Let me know if this helps.
depending on how old your subs are you may have blown them over time depending on how loud you have them the spiders will start to ware out eventually giving way leaving you with a blown speaker. I suggest that you open the casing an removing the woofers if they are plugged in and pushing very gently on the spider located underneath the cone. if they separate then you will have to replace your speakers otherwise check to see if the woofers are properly wired first.
Check all wires. Make sure you connected RCA cables to the OUT of the cd deck and the IN of the amp. Common mistake. Be sure speaker wires are connected. Speaker to terminals inside the box, and then from the box to the amp. If you've been moving the speaker around thru installation, you might have knocked a wire off the inside of the box. I had some MTX's one time that broke the wires from the speaker terminasl to the cone itself. You know those braided flexable ones? Check those too. Amp fuses. You might have blown 1 fuse but still have another one or two that is allowing the power light to stay on. GOOD LUCK
Check to determine if your sub woofers are DVC 4OHM or DVC 2OHM
If your sub woofers are DVC 4OHM then, from the positive (+) of the amplifier run your cable to the positive terminal of voice coil 1 on sub woofer 1 then continue to connect all the positive voice coils together on both sub woofers.
Do the same for the negative from amplifier to all the negative voice coils of both the sub woofers.
RECAP: all positives together on the positives and all the negatives together on the negatives.
This will give you a 1 OHM load to the amplifier making it deliver all its power but will also run hot. So if you are living in a hot climate take care.
Connect the negative on voice coil 1 to the positive of voice coil 2 on sub woofer 1
Do the same for subwoofer 2
now you should have a free negative and a free positive on each of the sub woofers. connect the free positives together and follow through to the positive on the amplifier. do the same for the free negatives sending them to the amplifiers negative.
This will give you a 4 OHM load to the amplifier. Not full power in this mode but the most stable working condition for your amplifier.
If your sub woofers are DVC 2 OHM then you only have one reasonable wiring solution.
Connect like solution 2.
This time because of the DVC 2 OHM sub woofers you would have a 2 OHM load to the amplifier. This is also a stable load for the amplifier and does not generate to much heat and still deliver over 50% to 70% of the amplifiers power.
good luck and drop me a line if you still have doubts.
bhurajiv, Well it's a good thing that you are getting sound from the tweeter from the speaker cabinet with the problem, that eliminates one of the possible problems; your wires are connected!
If your other speaker sounds fine, the first thing to try is to swap your speaker wires with the one that sounds fine. If the problem speaker cabinet still only produces sound from the tweeter, the problem is within the speaker. If the problem goes away, the problem is from your electronics.
If the problem is within your speaker and it is still under warranty, find a authorized repair location (http://www.cerwinvega.com/service_center.php).
Problems within the speaker can only be one or more of the following: 1) The drivers not producing sound have been blown; played with either too much power and/or distortion. Distortion is created when you play your music too loud with a amp not able to reproduce what you are looking for in sound, the speaker itself can hear it before you can. 2) The speaker cabinet has a crossover inside which directs the proper sounds to the proper driver. This crossover can have components that have been broken be either #1 or from exsessive vibration. 3) There are wires inside of the speaker cabinet that have been disconnected. This can happen over time or if someone reaches inside of the cabinet through the port and pulls on the wires; like a young child or pet such as cats.
If the drivers in question just one day stopped producing sound, start with the easiest solution, #3 then #1 if you can suspect anyone could have played your speakers other than you.
To diagnose the problem, you first start by removing the woofer and confirm that all of the wires are connected and in good condition. While the woofer is removed, to eliminate that there is a problem with the speakers, temporarily connect the mid-range and woofer, one at a time, directly to the wire coming from your electontics, if they produce sound the problem is within the crossover network, if they do not produce sound, the problem is with the driver itself. Replacement parts should only be purchased directly from Cerwin Vega directly (http://www.cerwinvega.com/contact_us.php)
You did not specify the impedance or the model of your Audiopipe replacement woofer but if it is the TS-V6 DVC 6.5", then the impedance of each voice coil is 4ohms. If you wired the coils in parallel, you now have a 2ohm load to the amp. At 2 ohms, the amp tries to produce more power, and even at moderate volume, can be driven into clipping causing distortion. Not good for the amp. Definitely not good for the woofer.
I'd try wiring the woofer coils in series and see if it stops cutting out.
Sounds like you have burnt out something (as you probably already know LOL) but maybe you just over heated some wires that couldn't take the Amperage. If this is the case, you MUST find out:
Why there was so much Amperage there at the time
Why didn't the Fuse blow? (perhaps too high an Amperage fuse for the Unit?) and
Why could your unit not handle the Power? (perhaps not Rated for that Power Output?).
Note: Watts and Amperage are not Musical terms, they are Electrical terms. So an Amplifier Increases the output Current to a maximum level designated in various ways as PMP (common but misleading) RMS (the International Standard) and DIN (the mainly European standard). The receiving unit (in this case your sub woofer is designed to handle a maximum level of Current input and this is usually desribed (again misleadingly) as simply Wattage. The common factor here is that both your Amplifier and Sub woofer are probably using the PMP rating.
If this is the case then you can easily determine if the 2 units are compatible using their "Wattages". For instance, a 275 Watt amplifier is too much at HIGH outputs (volume) for a set of speakers Rated at 160 Watts (they will "blow") but will work fine at Lower volumes because the Amp is putting out less Power at Lower volumes and is therefore probably below the Speakers Maximum input range.
Conversely, it is OK if the speakers are Rated for higher inputs than your Amplifier can put out. For example, a 175 Watt amplifier is fine with speakers Rated for 240 Watts because it can never produce enough power to "blow" the speakers.
Just putting in heavier wires will almost certainly bow up the sub woofer if the initial problem is not solved.
Take it to a HI FI shop and get them to look at it. If they simply say "Can't repair these, buy this one", try another shop.