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Are my speakers any good

I have 2 punch12'' woofer boxed, one started smoking and the other one does not come on. I giggled the wires, 1 fuse blown, replaced it, now one peaker works, you can hear musicand thump,but not as it sound before and has like a baby rattle echo. the other one still dont work. I pressed the cone in the middle of the speaker i guess it firm like the other one

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Hello. What you are describing sounds like voice coil damage. Depending on the model, they may not be worth fixing. The amplifier and wiring should be checked carefully before the subs are replaced.

Posted on Jan 28, 2009

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Harmon Kardon Receiver "Protect" Mode issue


If your receiver enters protect mode with no speakers connected, it is an indication that you will have to start troubleshooting inside.This will involve visual checking and checking with a multimeter to isolate the problem. A further issue is finding out why your JBL woofer keeps blowing fuses. It could be shorted.

Dec 12, 2013 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

I have a single 15" sub woofer in a box it was


Simply put, burned voice coil. Either too much power can do this or not enough power with distortion. solution- if the sound is clear then its too much power- turn the amp down. If the sound is distorted and raspy- its not enough power and your getting distortion-get bigger amp.

Jan 07, 2013 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

To Mr. Hyde: you appear experienced with Bose 501 Series III speakers. I need to replace a burned out glass bulb fuse inside the right speaker, the fuse for the woofer I believe. I think that you said that...


Hello whit_hughes,

Just received your request for some information regarding Bose 501's......... Series III. Your looking for te manufacturers part # for the fuse which is in line with the woofer? The fuses used ON the Series III Crossovers (hard wired/soldered directly to crossover board/componants) have been Identified as BUSS #2494, 2amp, Quick-Blow Glass Tube Type Fuses. The fuse which is in-series with the woofer & the fuse which is in-series with the pair of tweeters are the same! In theory this means that the woofer is capable of twice the wattage of the tweeters due to the tweeters being wired in series with each other..... which in turn divides the power beween the two equaly. On the woofer circuit there is only the one speaker or voice coil obsorbing the power. The woofer circuit being wired in parallel with the tweeter circuit again splits the power between the two cuircuits..... so in an ideal situation the woofer sees 50% total input power while the tweeters each see 25% total input power;;;; totaling 100% total. The way Bose has fused them in the Series III's is such that each branch can obsorb a total of 2 amps before shutting down each indivigual branch. This can be adventageous..... should peak power be exceeded causing loss of full load abruptly, Amplifier Power Output Transistors usually blow..... however when only half of the full cuircuit shuts down due to peak power exeeding limits causing one fuse to open (blow) ... the actual impedance (resistance) of the speaker increases protecting the Amplifiers Output Transistors! Thats the reason for the 2 fuses. Each of them are identical. They are soldered into place.... via the wire which is attached to each end of the fuse. (Note; the fuse "kit" Bose is trying to sell you is an external in line fuse holder for each speaker {costing 1.29 each} & 2 fuses for each holder, One for now & One for Later aftr it blows {costing 1.00 each}..... costing Bose 6.58, neting Bose $13.42 Profit!!!! Keep in mind that this fuse WILL NOT FIX YOUR PROBLEM EITHER! DUE TO THE FUSE WHICH IS PRESENTLY BLOWN HAS NOT BEEN REPLACED!!!!! ) The one that has to be replaced is on the crossover... not between the Amplifier & the Speaker Enclosure. Tools required = 1 Long Big Straight Blade Screwdriver to pry off speaker grill, 1 Phyllips Screwdriver to remove screws seccuring woofer to encloser... be carefull not to damage/tear gasket, 1 pair side cutters to cut blown fuse out of crossover curcuit, 1 pair needle nose pliers to attach NEW fuse to crossover curcuit, 1 soldering Iron & a small piece of solder to re-solder fuses leads securly to crossover curcuit. ( replace gasket, woofer, screws, & speaker grill. ENJOY! Should additionaL informaton be required please let me know.... you'll have to leave me your e-mail address for pictures or drawings.... as I don't think they can be sent through this site. Hope this helps ya..... Its an EASY JOB...... you CAN DO IT! & will be glad you did when your done, they'll sound GREAT! ) GOOD LUCK!

Jun 22, 2011 | Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

My subs wont work and i dont know why...amp is on, fuse is good, car speakers still work but the subs wont...any solutions?


depending on how old your subs are you may have blown them over time depending on how loud you have them the spiders will start to ware out eventually giving way leaving you with a blown speaker. I suggest that you open the casing an removing the woofers if they are plugged in and pushing very gently on the spider located underneath the cone. if they separate then you will have to replace your speakers otherwise check to see if the woofers are properly wired first.

May 15, 2011 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

No sound out of 15 speaker and only about half the sound out of horn


1. Confirm the woofer is not blown. Remove it and test it by using an AA battery and wire from the battery to the woofer terminals. When connected, the cone should jump. Alternately, if you have a meter, you can measure impedance. Infinity (or no jump with the battery method) means the coil is open and the speaker needs to be reconed.

2. If the woofer tests good, inspect the connections and wires from the input. Ensure there are no breaks. If the crossover includes a PC board, check for cracks or solder breaks and blown fuses / thermal damage. Repair as necessary.

If the woofer tests good and the wiring and connections are sound, reinstall and test. If there is still no sound from the woofer, test it by conecting it directly to the amp. If there is audio coming through the woofer, the issue lies within the cabinet. Consider replacing all internal cabinet componentry, including inputs. If the input is a 1/4" jack, it is likely thae contacts are bent out, away from the connector. Bend them back to center slightly, and clean them with alcohol or "deoxit".



"Half" the sound from the horn seems normal, as it is not intended to produce bass. If you mean half-volume, that is dependent on settings and measurements and is difficult to diagnose. clmrt5000_1.jpg

Jan 07, 2011 | Yamaha S115-IV 15" PA Speaker Cabinet...

1 Answer

I have a 2002 corvette, the base does not work on the Bose system....what could the problem be.


You have 3 choices - 1. the speaker is blown, 2. the wiring is broken or disconnected, 3. No output from the amp.
If you have a VOM, an inexpensive one wil work fine, and can get the speaker connection, set the meter to 1K, hold one lead against one speaker post and tap the other post, if the woofer cone moves it's not the problem. Connect the wires back to the speaker posts and then disconnect them from the amp. Hold one probe against one wire and tap the other - if the woofer makes a sound then woofer and wires are good - take the amp to the shop or buy a new one.

Jul 05, 2009 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

My car's sub is ''sub-par'' my expectations


Hello css42103,

You did not specify the impedance or the model of your Audiopipe replacement woofer but if it is the TS-V6 DVC 6.5", then the impedance of each voice coil is 4ohms. If you wired the coils in parallel, you now have a 2ohm load to the amp. At 2 ohms, the amp tries to produce more power, and even at moderate volume, can be driven into clipping causing distortion. Not good for the amp. Definitely not good for the woofer.

I'd try wiring the woofer coils in series and see if it stops cutting out.

Hope this helps.

Jun 01, 2009 | Car Audio & Video

1 Answer

TH-M606


Either the amp for the sub is bad, or the sub woofer speaker is bad. If you checked the fuses, you must know how to get the amp out of the sub woofer box (screws in the bottom of box and around the metal plate of the box). Take it out again and check the wires that go to the sub woofer. It is the red and white wires if I remember correctly. They come from the box and plug into the amp board with a white plastic connector. Or you can check the wires right at the speaker. The cover for the speaker comes off with about 4 phillips screws and then take the speaker out with the screw driver as well.Use an ohm meter and check the ohms on the speaker at those wires after you dis-connect them from the board. That woofer should measure between 3 and 6 ohms to still be good. If it measures less than 3 ohms or more than 6 ohms, it is probably bad and will need to be replaced.

Here is the JVC part number for that woofer.

CR250006-01

Be prepared, the cost is ridiculous. $110.16 at JVC's service site.

http://www.jvcservice.com/Service/JPartInq.asp?PgReq=DspDta&PrtNbr=CR250006-01

Or you could just find one that fits properly and use it instead. They are not the best woofer around and are very over-priced.

I hope this helps, if so a FixYa! rating would be very much appreciated. After all, it is the only reward we get for offering free help to people like yourself.

Dave


Aug 12, 2008 | JVC TH-M606 System

1 Answer

Lost woofer in one cabinet.


I'm not familiar with your specific model, but some of these have fuses for the woofers. Check for a blown safety fuse. Also, verify that the connections to the crossover board are in good shape. These crossovers are not that complex and don't usually fail. Keep us posted on what you find.
Dan

May 29, 2008 | Recoton Advent Advent Calypso Main /...

1 Answer

Smoking


Sounds like you have burnt out something (as you probably already know LOL) but maybe you just over heated some wires that couldn't take the Amperage. If this is the case, you MUST find out:

Why there was so much Amperage there at the time
Why didn't the Fuse blow? (perhaps too high an Amperage fuse for the Unit?) and
Why could your unit not handle the Power? (perhaps not Rated for that Power Output?).

Note: Watts and Amperage are not Musical terms, they are Electrical terms. So an Amplifier Increases the output Current to a maximum level designated in various ways as PMP (common but misleading) RMS (the International Standard) and DIN (the mainly European standard). The receiving unit (in this case your sub woofer is designed to handle a maximum level of Current input and this is usually desribed (again misleadingly) as simply Wattage. The common factor here is that both your Amplifier and Sub woofer are probably using the PMP rating.

If this is the case then you can easily determine if the 2 units are compatible using their "Wattages". For instance, a 275 Watt amplifier is too much at HIGH outputs (volume) for a set of speakers Rated at 160 Watts (they will "blow") but will work fine at Lower volumes because the Amp is putting out less Power at Lower volumes and is therefore probably below the Speakers Maximum input range.

Conversely, it is OK if the speakers are Rated for higher inputs than your Amplifier can put out. For example, a 175 Watt amplifier is fine with speakers Rated for 240 Watts because it can never produce enough power to "blow" the speakers.

Just putting in heavier wires will almost certainly bow up the sub woofer if the initial problem is not solved.

Take it to a HI FI shop and get them to look at it. If they simply say "Can't repair these, buy this one", try another shop.

Sorry about the lecture.

Good luck.

Apr 13, 2008 | Theater Research TR-9500 Car Subwoofer Box...

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