Question about Welding Tools
Looks like you might be using solder with flux already in? If so, don't. Buy liquid safety flux and paint on generously over the glass as well as copper foil (I take it there is copper foil under there somewhere??)
Solder should be "F" grade, 50% lead, 50% tin, which is soft and flows well.
Don't apply too much on outside edges to start, but build up a raised bead on any internal joints. Turn over, flux again and repeat soldering on second side. Then hold work upright using a cloth, to protect your hand from possible drips of hot solder and apply more to the outside edge all round, bit by bit. This should be fairly thick for strength and is not easy, but possible if you hold your work with the edge you're trying to solder, absolutely level, otherwise the solder will just run downhill. It's a bit like the mercury puzzles you used to get.
Hope this helps
Posted on Mar 13, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Consider the wattage of the soldering iron. A good soldering iron will have wattage of 80 to 150. A wattage of lower than 80 is not ideal for stained glass. You need a soldering iron that will melt the solder fast enough for your project. Consider the type of temperature control you want. Some irons will have a temperature control built in the tip. When the temperature drops, it will turn on and when the temperature is reached, it will turn off. Other soldering irons have a built-in rheostat. You control the temperature by turning the dial up or down. A separate rheostat can be purchased to plug your soldiering iron into. Rheostats are highly recommended. This lets you match your temperature to your soldering style and allow you to do decorative effects.
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Posted on Nov 25, 2009
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