No water to the ice maker. No voltage to the inlet solenoid
I'm in UK and have the UK model that looks very similar to this one (mine's LG GRL206).
I swapped the solenoid connections for cold water and ice maker over (they are different size but the water one is bigger so fitted) and confirmed (by pushing the cold water dispenser) that the ice maker part of the solenoid works (water out of the ice maker pipe).
The problem is that there is no mains voltage (230v in UK) at the icemaker solenoid connector (one has purple and black wires, the other has blue and black wires -why two wires in each?). Looking at the ice making tray itself I cannot see any obvious way that the unit determines when to open the solenoid and when to switch it off.
I've checked that the icemaker internal on/off switch works.
I've found the little test button at the back underneath the ice tray and that triggers the motor to tip the tray and back again.
I've searched the web and cannot find any circuit diagrams to help me further.
An internal thermometer shows the freezer is at -21 degrees C
Any help appreciated
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Re: No water to the ice maker. No voltage to the inlet...
Icemakers work on a timed cycle and a timed fill. pressing the reset switch i would say solved your problem. I would switch the valves back to the way they were. The valve for the ice is smaller then the door water because the icemaker takes a small amount of water to fill. Good luck
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I would check the water inlet valve the coils may have gone bad test them for ohms and for voltage
The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.
(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.
Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.
With the arm up in the ice tray, the water solenoid valve should be closed. When the arm drops, that tells the ice maker to open the water solenoid valve to fill the ice maker tray. It sound like the leak is at the inlet side of the water solenoid valve. On some models its not easy to get to, but follow the water line to it. Hope this is it for you. Good luck.
If your good with a meter... unplug the unit. and slide each of the connectors of the solenoid bak just far enough to check the resistance of the solenoids. They all should have similar resistance. I am pretty sure one of your solenoids had a bad coil.
Is the freezer cold enough? Should be close to 10 degrees. Is there water or ice in the ice mold? If not put water in it and see if it dumps the ice after it’s frozen. If there is ice, lift the cut off arm and let it drop to see if it will start. If it does dump the ice but don’t refill with water. ICE MAKER DRIP
ICE MAKER NOT GETTING WATER
Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. It’s on the back where the water supply comes in. Then try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.
The water inlet valve on the back of unit opens when the ice maker needs water. If the valve doesn't seal good because of sediment or wear it will continue to drip and when the water reaches the ice maker supply tube it will freeze blocking the fill tube.. You can take the water line off the valve and watch to see if it drips.
The ice maker valve is a dual one. with 2 solenoids. One solenoid operates the water and the other the ice maker. So if the water works that don't mean the ice maker supply is ok. The ice maker itself controls the flow of water. So if the water valve is ok then the ice maker is faulty. I have repair photos HERE
Hi, The first thing you want to check is the inlet tube where the water spills into the icemaker. Most of the time, the tube gets plugged with ice preventing the ice maker to fill. If there are no blockages, check the inlet valve on the ice maker side of the valve. You can test the valve when the ice maker cycles and see if it is getting 120V. If there is voltage and the solenoid does not engage, replace the inlet valve.
Please let me know if this helps you or if I can assist you further.
Hi, It sounds like the inlet valve needs changes. Could be the plunger inside the solenoid is not lifting to allow water through. If you remove the line going to the ice maker off the inlet valve, try and cycle the ice maker and put the inlet valve over a bucket to see if water is coming out when it gets voltage. I hope this helps.Please let me knwo if I can assist you further.