Question about Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9564J Top Load Washer
Can you have the door open all the way to see if the agitator spines all by its self or you can held the agitator with your hand if you can then you need a new agitator dogs part number
the agitator dogs look like this pic below
Posted on Jan 22, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like coupling gears between transmission and motor... they did away with the belt and went direct drive with coupling gears. It can pump water out but nothing else. water pump is mounted to front of motor is why it will pump water out.
Posted on Aug 28, 2007
This problem, or some variation thereof evidently is very common with these Whirlpool Washers! I have same problem. So far, best I have found is at
diagnosis by someone who knows. What William Burk says there makes sense. However, to get to the drive block there's quite a bit of disassembly required. I am stopped because I cannot get the spanner nut off. Hope this gives you some help toward finding a more comprehensive answer
Posted on Jul 05, 2008
SOURCE: clothes come out soaking wet
Is the Delicate or Hand Washables cycle selected?
Spin speeds can vary by the cycle that is selected. Your washer is designed so that in certain cycles, such asDelicate or Hand Washables cycles, the spin speeds are slower. In these cycles, more water is retained in the load at the end of the cycle to keep delicate fabrics from shrinking and wrinkling. Select the appropriate cycle based on the fabric being washed.
Was an Extra Low, Low or No Spin option selected?
Select the highest spin speed for the fabric being washed. If extra low spin or no spin was selected, the washer may not remove enough water from the load.
Were you washing one bulky item, such as a rug or large blanket?
Consider adding more items to help balance the load during spin. Select $FL-drainspin cycle and restart the washer. Your washer is designed to detect an unbalanced load and automatically lower the spin speed. Unbalanced conditions are more likely to occur with a single, bulky item.
Are excessive suds present?
Use only HE High Efficiency detergent. Using non-HE detergent or more than the manufacturer's recommended amount of detergent can cause excessive suds. The excess suds can cause the washer to run at a reduced spin speed, which will result in very wet loads.
See also: Why HE High Efficiency detergent is required.
Is the drain hose kinked or is the drain clogged?
Make sure the drain hose is not kinked. Straighten the hose for adequate water flow. Remove any blockage from the drainpipe or utility sink. Use the U-shaped drain hose form on the drain hose, and secure the drain hose. See the Installation Instructions for details; find them by entering your model number in the Manual and Literature search below.
Is the end of the drain hose more than 96" (244 cm) above the floor?
The drainpipe (standpipe) height requirements are: 96" (244 cm) maximum and 30" (76.2 cm) minimum. Your washer will not be able to adequately pump the water out of the washer if the drainpipe (standpipe) exceeds 96" (244 cm). In this case, the water may flow back into the washer. See the Installation Instructions for details; find them by entering your model number in the Manual and Literature search below.
Is your outlet voltage low?
Check electrical source or call an electrician.
Posted on Dec 19, 2008
HI. the first action is to test the lid switch. The lid switch ensures that the lid is closed before enabling the machine to spin or agitate. This feature was added after serious injuries resulted from people reaching into an operating washing machine. For this reason, the lid switch should never be bypassed. Aside from electrical problems, the switch may suffer from a mechanical problem. The lid may have a striker which depresses the switch when the lid is closed. Make sure the striker is functioning and aligned with the hole over the switch. Inspect the switch and make sure the metal strip is not bent out of position (if present). If your switch uses a mercury switch, make sure the mercury envelops the internal contacts when it is in the closed lid position. Your design may differ, so inspect it for proper operation before proceeding to the electrical testing.There are two primary types of lid switches. One type on which you can directly test the terminals on the switch and another style where you have to test it at the wiring harness. In either case the method for testing the switch is the same. If a wiring harness is used, separate the two pieces of the harness and test the side of the harness that connects to the switch. Test the switch for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading of infinity. Depress the button on the lid switch and the reading should change from a reading of infinity to roughly zero. If it does not pass both of these tests, the switch should be replaced.
Some lid switches also have a fuse, you can visually inspect the fuse or test it for continuity with a multimeter. If the fuse is bad, replace it with one of the same rating.
If the lid switch is operational, i would move on to the next possible issue. This will be the motor coupler.
Washers with a direct drive motor have a motor coupler instead of a belt. The motor coupler consists of three plastic disks (or tri-stars) with interlocking tabs. Those tabs can wear and break which results in slippage. The slippage causes little or no power to be transferred to the transmission
. A worn motor coupling can result in weak or no movement of the agitator and spin basket. Inspecting the motor couplers requires removing the motor, which is fairly easy to do.
Remove the cabinet. Locate the motor. The pump is mounted to one side of the motor. You do not have to remove the hoses from the pump unless they prevent you from moving the pump out of your way. If you must remove the hoses, label where they connect first. To disconnect the hoses, pinch the wire clamps with pliers (or loosen the screw) and slide the clamp farther up the hose. Slide the hose off of the pump port.
There are two clips that secure the pump housing to the motor. Use a screwdriver to pry up the clips and remove the cover. Next, slide off the pump to reveal the motor. Disconnect the wiring harness from the motor, do not pull on the wires themselves. The motor typically is secured with retaining clips and bolts. Remove the bolts and use a screwdriver to pry up the clips (if present). Remove the motor.
Mounted on the shaft of the back of the motor you will find the motor coupler. Separate the three disks and inspect them for damage. If you find cracks or excessive wear, replace the coupler.
***(I would suggest to check the following while you are in the area for faults as well(((Clutch,motor,motor board,transmission))). inspect these areas thoroughly)
Ok, if all the above checks out ok and, there are no signs of damage to any of the above parts stated, this will confirm a timer control module malfunction. replace the control device(timer or control board) asap, if possible.
Posted on Sep 18, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks! "
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