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How to check point gap

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Care to elaborate on this question? Point gap of what?

Posted on Jan 23, 2013


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I have a 1993 ford Econovan maxi . I have ignition point . What is the gap on the ignition point . Thanks

point gap is .40 to .50 mm ( point 4 to point 5 mm) or .015 to .20"
most point distributors are at the .02 " mark but check and adjust as points to wide will misfire under load or lack power if too close
point gap variations can change ignition timing

Nov 20, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

What is the ignition point gap?

In older engines with traditional points-condenser-coil ignition systems the dwell if the ignition was set by the gap between the points. The points act like a switch that opens and closes the circuit of the primary side of the ignition coil.

All later engines use electronic ignition that do not require points.


Mar 28, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Gape setting for points on massey fergson 135 gas motor ?

need spark plug gap and point gap for MF 135

I found this link about the points gap and plug gap.
"My I&T manual says .021 point gap and .025 plug gap."
There's a lot more information on the MF 135 on the web. Just do a search ' MF 135"; "massey ferguson 135 perkins gas engine point gap"

Jun 14, 2014 | Computers & Internet

1 Answer

What is the points gap for a Yamaha LT2

Factory spec is .014"
First, file and clean the contacts.
The procedure is to set the timing and THEN check the point gap. If the gap is too wide, bend the top contact arm down to correct gap and check timing again.
If the gap is too small (less than.012"), the points need to be replaced.
Good Luck,
Steve - Factory Trained Yamaha Tech.

Jun 06, 2014 | 1972 Yamaha DT 360

1 Answer

Adjusting the points

With points cover off,slowly bring engine to the highest point on the points cam.Its easiest to do this with the spark plug out,and slowly spin the engine with the kick start. Once you get it to the highest point on the points cam,the points should be "open". Insert feeler gauges untill you find the correct one...(it should have slight resistance). The check what the recommended gap is for that model. After finding the recomended gap,use the feeler gauge that matches the recomended gap,and isert between the points. There should be two screws,one on each end of the points. Loosen those two screws,and the body of the point will move,one way to "open": the gap,the other to "close" the gap. With feeler gauge between the points contact,close untill you feel slight resistance when moving the gauge back and forth,and tighten the set screws on the points body.

Aug 31, 2012 | 1973 Honda CB 100

1 Answer

The bike is starting only with small plug gap.If we set the gap to original it wont start? tell me the reason?

.....A weak battery comes to mind for starters. A carboned up spark plug is another; start with a new spark plug. If I recall correctly from 39 years ago, your bike has ignition points and condenser. Remove the points cover (on left end of the overhead cam), and check the points. Burned? Pitted? Get a new set of points and condenser but for now, just file the points a bit using an emery board or metal fingernail file. Set the points to .015 clearance at the high point on the cam lobe. If you have a timing light you could check the timing and adjust as needed by rotating the points base plate left or right. Bad points give resistance to the flow of electricity. When the points are closed, the condenser gets charged up. Less electricity going through the points means less of a charge going into the condenser. Now the points open up and the stored charge goes from condenser to coil. The coil then produces a spark. With a low charge in the condenser, the spark is weak and will not jump a wide gap. Set the plug gap to very little and the weak spark can jump the gap. The standard gap is .028. ....... I don't recall when Honda move the points to the flywheel but the images below may help if your bike is that style. Clean any rust on noted parts; magnets and pick up coils. Okay, now I have done my part. Now you gotta do yours; please rate my answer. Thanks! tombones49_177.giftombones49_178.gif

Jun 15, 2011 | 1972 Honda CB 100

1 Answer

I have a 1973 amc javelin, its been sitting (inside) for 28 years. Trying to get it running now. Replaced all the ignition system, just need to know how to set the points.

The point gap for all 1973 AMC engines is .16 inches. If you have access to a dwell meter the dwell for the V8 is 29-31 and the dwell for the 6 cylinder is 31-34.
To set the points you need to turn the engine over until the contact pad on the points is on the center of a lobe on the distributor. The lobe should be in the center of the pad so it's probably best to turn the engine over by hand. Loosen the screw on the the slotted hole in the point set and slide your feeler guage between the contact pad and the lobe. Be sure the feeler guage is flat on the contact pad or your measurement will be off. Tighten the screw and slide the feeler guage out. It should fit snugly and be able to slide back in easily but snug.
Turn the engine over until the contact pad is on the flat part of the lobe and check the alignment of the points in relation to each other. They should be closed with no gaps at either end. If there is a gap at one end then bend the stationary support until they close. DO NOT bend the moveable arm. Reset the point gap after you bend.
Once you have the gap set re-check the gap. Quite often the gap will close a little when you tighten the screw .It takes some patience to get the point set properly.
Hope this helps.

Oct 17, 2010 | AMC Concord Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need to set the timing on a 1978 kawasaki 650kz. how?

you have 2 sets of points one set attached directly to main backing plate the other set has another backing plate attached to main backing plate .start with the first set turn motor till points at the widest gap set gap to0.35mm turn motor back till points close diconect push on terminal and attach multimeter lead to points terminal attach
other multimeter lead to earth tun motor to the points break continuity with earth check position of f mark to pointer move backing plate till points break contact on f mark now do same to next set of points nb if points worn you might have to run a much smaller gap 2 get rite!

Jul 20, 2010 | 1978 kawasaki Z 650

2 Answers

Need to find the timing marks

I am assoming that you are talking about the marks on the points plate.
Before you put the points and point plate on, check the spark advancer for proper function. Twist the point cam and it should snap back to the correct original location.
If not MARK the relationship between the point cam and the advancer base... HINT.. you can put it together backwards and the bike will NEVER run!

The points should mount up on the plate with no problems, other than check carefully where the point wire goes onto the insulated bolt and don't let the terminal end get grounded out on the point base/plate. Point plate and points should install so the points are at about 10-11 o'clock location when the plate is secured to the cylinder head. The point wire enters the point base plate at the far right and runs underneath the point cam to connect with the contact breaker on the left side.

When installing new points, be sure to check and clean the point faces of any grease or oil that is a preservative. Put a drop of oil on the felt and a light coat of point grease (if you can find it anymore at auto parts stores) on the point cam. Because the point rubbing block is new, the little high spots will wear down initially in the first couple of hours of operation, so you will probably have to come back and recheck the gap and timing after some run-in time. The gap needs to be about .014-.016" checked at the highest point of the point cam. Turn the engine over with a wrench and watch the points open and close, then observe where they are open the widest and check the gap with a flat feeler gauge. If you set them about .016", then they will close down to around .014" or so after they have seated in. This is how it is done in a perfect world of new, unworn parts.

The inherent difficulty here lies within Honda's choice to cutaway the cam bearings to facilitate camshaft installation. This area tends to wear rapidly, causing the camshaft (and point cam) to wobble around during rotation, even when the camchain tensioner is fairly snug. If you grab the end of the point cam or camshaft with your fingers, try to move it from side to side/up and down. ANY movement will translate to a change in the point gap, which makes a change in the ignition timing. If it is really loose, the timing will be difficult to set and the running timing will be erratic. The only way to fix it is to put on a new head and cam and/or POWROLL may still be able to convert the head/cam to a needle bearing design... all a lot of work and expense for a 30 year old tiddler bike.

The timing, once the gap is set properly, is adjusted by moving the point plate back and forth until the points JUST BARELY open when the F flywheel mark is aligned with the pointer mark on the case. You can check this with a 6v test light or a ohmmeter or audible test unit. Recheck the point gap when you move the plate, as it tends to change the gap. Go back and forth until you have both the proper gap and the correct point opening moment set.
This bike MUST have a fresh 6-volt battery installed to run. It is NOT a magneto ignition.
Hope this helps out. Let us know how it goes.

Oct 06, 2009 | 1970 Honda CB 100

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