Question about Maytag Washing Machines
Probably lid lock not mounted the right way redo instalation or you bought a broken lock
Posted on Jan 22, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet HT GHW9400PL0
Thanks to Coldcut and several others, I have followed the trail of problems and solutions and successfully fixed the annoying (to say the least) FDL and F11 error codes issue on my Whirlpool GHW9400PL0 purchased in 2005, broken in 2008. I too was extremely frustrated with a load of wash taking 1 or 2 days to complete. Some of the fixes (unplugging the washer for an hour, simultaneously pressing start and cancel) worked temporarily, but eventually I had to call for service. Before that, I fearlessly took the door lock unit apart (not recommended) and reinstalled it. It did not work. I ordered a new door lock. It did not fix the issue. Coldcut already knew that would not work but I tried it anyway. Not a big ticket item and I was afraid to muck with the CUU circuit board.
The whirlpool service center sent a repair guy out within the week, but he failed to show on the scheduled day. Calls to the service center confirmed that he was on his way. An hour late, the service center confirmed I was next on his schedule. Two hours later, I asked to speak to a manager who listened to my compaint and informed me in no uncertain terms that they did not care about customer satisfaction and would not be interested in monitoring their repair partners. I am so glad I took a half day off work without pay to wait for someone who did not value my time. I told the service center I would never buy another Whirlpool appliance and they politely told me that "it was my decision". Indeed.
The repair guy showed up the next day (another no pay day), asked me what the error code was, checked his computer, and informed me I needed a new CCU at twice the price of major online parts suppliers. I sent him away after paying the $80 service fee, and ordered a new CCU online.
With the new CCU on the way and nothing to lose, I took the CCU out of the machine. gaga24008 had wisely advised to be careful prying the board out of the case (thank you) and following Coldcut's instructions I resoldered the relay legs with my circa 1968 Wen soldering gun. Put everything back together (I had previously removed and replaced every connector in the entire machine) and waited for the 6 whimpy relay clicks to prove it didn't work-- but it did work! I've completed 15 or so loads of wash since, and no problems. I'm hanging on to my expensive replacement CCU just in case. I'm wary of the postings which refer to immediate problems after installing a new CCU. My next step will be to hang the dang thing by a bungy cord. Thanks to the many people who have posted solutions to this aggravating issue. I'll be visiting FixYa for any future issues with my tools and appliances.
Posted on Oct 12, 2008
select pause/cancel twice if it still does not unlock. It is not unlocking because of water still in the system, run the drain spin cycle manually if that does not work you will have to clean out the lint trap and the water left inside will drain on your floor. To clean the lint trap. there is a panel at the bottom front of the washer. along the bottom of the washer there are three torx type screws to remove the panel these will be above the drawer unit if you purcased the stand. remove the panel by lifting from the bottom. then in the center you will see a plastic cap. twist the cap to remove. this is your lint filter. it pulls out and has a cup shaped piece attached to it pay attention to how it comes out im not sure if you can put it in wrong. clean the area out. there may be some water to spill out depending on how much is clogged in your system. replace the cap once you have cleaned it out this should help with your problems.
Posted on Mar 22, 2009
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I had the same problem. The lid lock assembly is broken.
If you are under warranty get it replaced. If not remove the top of the washer
and take out the switch assembly. The 4 wires going in are Yellow, Red, White,
and Blue. If you short the white and blue together, the washer thinks the lid
is closed. If you short the red white and blue together the washer thinks the
lid is closed and locked. The yellow is only there to activate the
Disconnecting the switch assembly will not work.
The electromagnet locks the lid and it also unlocks the lid. It is not a matter of cutting the power to the magnet.
Installing 2 switches that connect the red white and blue is the best option if you want to remove the lock.
The first switch should connect the white and blue. (LID CLOSED)
The second should connect the red to the white/blue connection. (LID LOCKED)
After that the lid should work.
Please post a follow-up if this works for you.
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