Question about Sewing Machines

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Top needle hitting or coming down on the lower looper needle

Will not make a stitch, just seems to knot up around the top needle and top needle is hitting on the lower looper just barely...all needles are straight, none being bent

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  • Sewing Machines Master
  • 7,365 Answers

It's probably time for the machine to be serviced to have the timing
checked.

Posted on Jan 22, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 29 Answers

SOURCE: a horrible tangle

This is a bit late, could the bobbin case not be seated properly? You need to put it into place and then turn it clockwise until it seats soundly in the opening. Also, check for burrs...the needle may have left a rough mark on the plastic or metal in the bobbin area. A piece of batting, or even an old knee hi should snag on any rough areas.

Posted on Jul 14, 2007

bilabon
  • 46 Answers

SOURCE: Bobbin continues to pose problem - knotting thread underside of fabric,

In 99% of all problems with "bird's nesting" or "knotting" it is an issue of the thread coming out of the take up lever (at threading guide #3) (from the spool; through the first thread guide at #1 down to #2 and up to # 3) when the thread comes out of the take up lever, the machine can not regulate the thread and it floods the machien with thread and wraps itself around the bobbin case. OR! Your tension is too loose. Raise it. Your machine should preform perfect at tension #4 unless you are using speciality threads or fabrics.

ALWAYS be in the habit of threading your machine with presser foot up so that while threading between paths 1 and 2 you are certain to have the thread pass throught the tension disks.

This will happen on a $50.00 machine or a $5,000 machine. The thread needs to be regulated.

USE GOOD THREAD!

Thanks,

Bonnie

Posted on Oct 30, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Stitch is uneven, not straight, and tension off on top and bottom

on my industrial machine this was caused by the wrong size needle. the length was off just a fraction. just an idea, in case you bought generic needles or something.

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: thread continually breaking in lower looper needle

I was having this very same problem with my lower looper . I had been using the one needle stitching all afternoon and I was doing quite nice stitching. then I decided to put the right needle back in and do some overlock stitching and guess what I spent the next two hours fighting the looper problem. I had completely re-thread this machine at least 20 times now. I decided to take the needle out and re-insert it and re-thread it one more time (right lower looper- then upper looper- right needle- then left needle) was careful to pull all threads to the back and under the presser foot for about 6 inches.
Held on to the thread, lowered presser foot and did the chaining stitch. BINGO it didn't break, tried it with a piece of cloth and Perfect stitches. I have a Babylock BL402 and used tension settings left to right
4-3-3-3 and default settings for the rest.
Hope this helps someone someday.
Jo Griffith

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

WonderTech
  • 268 Answers

SOURCE: When i use my janome overlocker the needle is

Hello,
Here are a few things to try.

* When you insert anew needle, make sure it’s positioned correctly. Usually with the flat side
away from the bobbin, but consult your manual. Make sure that it goes all the way into the holder, and that the screw is securely tightened.


If there doesn’t seem to be a problem with your needle, try the following:

* Check your pressure foot
Make sure it’s attached securely.

* Change your pressure foot
Your pressure foot may be bent, causing your needle to hit it.

* Don’t sew over pins
A needle that hits a pin can break. Always remove the pins from your fabric before they reach
your needle.

* Don’t pull your fabric as you sew
You could be bending your needle back, causing it to hit your needle plate instead of going into
the hole. Just guide your fabric, letting it feed on its own.

* Check your needle plate
Make sure it's securely in position.

* Change your needle plate
If you’ve been using a straight stitch needle plate (a plate with a small hole, often used for
sewing fine, delicate fabrics), switch to a needle plate with a wider hole.

* Check the position of your needle
Sewing machines with zigzag capability allow you to adjust the position of your needle – right,
left, or center. If your needle is not positioned correctly, it may be hitting your needle plate or
pressure foot.

I hope one of these solutions help you.

Posted on Sep 15, 2009

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1 Answer

Setting a elna 792d for rolled hem


I don't know your model in particular but generally this is how you set up a serger/overlocker to create a rolled hem. Remove the left hand needle and thread if 4 threads are threaded). Now there is usually a lever around the stitching area that you slide back towards you to remove the stitching finger back (disengaged). Then you adjust the top looper tension looser (about 2-3) and lower looper tension tighter (7 or 8). Leave needle tension at normal tension (5). You may need to move the cutting blade to the right too. The technique is to cut the fabric wider but with a narrow stitch so the cut edge rolls under within the stitching. You want the top looper thread really loose so it rolls right around underneath up against the needle thread, the lower looper thread needs to be tight and almost invisible, pulling the upper looper thread down. I usually do a few test runs and check the stitching. Once happy, I turn the stitch length right down to 1 so it is very dense. This uses a lot of thread up.

Ideally use a wooly overlock thread on the upper looper as this "fluffs" out once stitched and "fills" in covering the fabric edge completely.
some good images here
Sewing Basics Narrow Rolled Hems with Serger Sew Mama Sew Outstanding...

Jul 18, 2017 | Elna Sewing Machines

1 Answer

How do I set up my babylock serger for a rolled hem? What is the tension to be set at?


I don't know your babylock well, some of these have automatic tensions and electronic stitch selection. But a rolled hem is achieved on any overlocker in the following way; the actual dials and knobs might vary a bit.

Firstly there is a stitch finger that you need to change or retract so that the thread can roll the fabric rather than staying flat. For a normal seam this finger sticks out in the area where the loopers and needle form the stitch holding the cut edge flat until the seam is made over it. But for rolled hems you want to retract this finger so it does roll.

On the Bernettes this is a little lever in front of the stitching area that you pull back to retract the finger. Have a look around where the stitch forms and you should see the finger. Some machines, its a part you change on the needle plate with a screw driver, or just move a switch or lever.

You want the right hand needle in place, remove the left hand needle.

Thread upper looper with wooly overlock thread, this is a fluffy nylon that pulls flat under tension but relaxes and "fills" out once its stitched into place. Gives that lovely covered look you see on shop bought tablecloth edges. Your regular thread in needle and lower looper. Usually cutting blade to the right side as you want it to cut more fabric than in the seam so it rolls under. Now loosen off the tension on the top looper, (I use 2 on mine but this is something you need to finesse with each machine), and tighten up the tension on lower looper, (about 7). Leave needle tension alone.

Now test stitch on your fabric, and finess the upper and lower looper tensions until you get the lower looper thread almost not showing, it should be right up against the needle on the underside with the upper looper thread completely wrapping around top and bottom, pulling the fabric under.a seam like this.
10_16_2011_3_34_10_am.jpg

Test stitch and adjust upper and lower looper until this is happening.

Now, turn stitch length down to close up the stitching, probably 1 or 0.8 if you want a real satin stitch look to the hem.

Because of the stitch density this uses thread so do the finessing first, then turn the length down.

That's it! Now right down the tension settings you used and keep handy for next time.

Sep 24, 2011 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

1 Answer

I am trying to do a rolled hem using a singer ultralock 14sh654. Do I disengage the knife? The stitches are uneven and some are quite loose no matter how much I adjust the tension. I am positive I...


no, you need the blade in place and cutting to give an even cut fabric edge. Set up for a three thread using the right hand needle, take out the left hand needle. move blade over to the right so it is cutting wide. Most overlockers there is also a thread finger you need to change on the foot, or a little lever you flick to move this finger forward into the stitching area. Check this on your manual as each make is a bit different.
If you can source it, put wooly nylon thread into the upper looper (knot it onto existing thread and just chain it through, the knot should go through the looper eye fine). Now turn the tension on top looper down so it is looser and tighten up tension on bottom looper, so needle 5, top looper 2 and bottom looper about 7.

Now test serge, the fabric cut edge should be wider than the overlocking seam so the fabric rolls under inside the stitching. Adjust the two looper threads so that this is happening, you want the bottom looper thread to nest right up against the needle stitch and the top looper thread to wrap all the way around too.

Once you've got this happening, turn the stitch length down to 0.5, to close the stitching right up. On some fabrics you'll need to adjust the differential feed too if the fabric is "waving" a bit.

Uneven stitches or sometimes loose when serging could indicate that one of the tension devices is faulting, so if this machine is not new and its doing this, it could need a service. Can you get a regular smooth three or 4 thread seam out if it???

It is always good to just recheck the threading path, make sure the thread aerial is up and that a thread hasn't got caught back on the thread stand somewhere if you're getting something wonky happening, threads stream off overlocker cones through the machine so anything wrong in the thread path will throw off the stitching.

Jun 25, 2011 | Singer 14SH654

1 Answer

I cannot get the tension right? Also, trying rolled hem with 3 needles...tension too loose.


Rolled hem would be one needle and two loopers, is this what you meant?

Make sure you move the blade to right so that you are cutting wider than the stitch being formed, you want the fabric to roll to the underside inside the stitch.

I would set top looper tension to 3 and bottom looper tension to 6 first off (needle at five, normal tension) first off and test serge with the stitch length at normal 2 or so, so you can see if the fabric is rolling under for you. There is proabably a stitch finger in the throat that you need to change too, sometimes its on the foot, (change with a screwdriver) and sometimes just a finger down on the needle plate.

Then adjust the two looper tensions making lower thread nestle up against the needle on the bottom of the stitch, and the top looper thread wrapping right over to bottom as well. Once this is happening, then turn stitch length down to close up the stitches.

It does depend on the weight of fabric too, and if you want to seam curves.

I find its best done with wooly overlock thread on top looper to "fill" in the overlocking appearance and fully cover the fabric.

I hope this is of help, if the tensions just wont behave then one of them might be faulty and machine need a service, I get mine done at least every 2 years to keep timing and tensions right.

May 26, 2011 | New Home 104D Mechanical Sewing Machine

2 Answers

How do you lengthen stitch. The stitches are so close together it looks like a satin stitch. I have no manual for it. thanks!


your machine should have a stitch length dial on the right hand side above the flywheel, it might have numbers from 0.5 to 3 or 4, higher number for longer stitch (effectively this moves the foot and feed dogs faster in relation to the needles to make the stitch longer).

If you have the Serge Pro SW432 that your enquiry is linked to and you have not used a serger before, then definitely get hold of the manual, you will need it. Sergers are very different to sewing machines - once you've mastered one, its easy, but there is a learning curve.

Firstly, ALWAYS extend the thread aerial up, you'll see loads of images of sergers sitting nicely with the aerial in the lowered position, great for moving them to avoid damage. But they won't work well, a serger seams at 1500 stitches per minute and the thread streams off the cones so you need to ensure there is a good clear feed via the aerial to the tension dials.

Buy good quality thread cones and keep it out of the sun and dust. Cover your machine when not in use (lower the aerial first). You could start with white, grey and black thread as this will cover a lot of fabric prints/colours etc. To change thread colour, you will need to cut and knot on the new thread for the two loopers (right hand side cones) - do this about 6 inches above the first thread guide, and then chain off to feed these through down to the needle plate, when you see the new colour come through okay, stop. Repeat the process for the needle thread or threads (3 or 4 thead depending on what stitch you are sewing) but stop chaining when the thread knot is above the needles. Stop, loosen these tension dials and pull the thread down, cut out the knot with scissors and thread the new colour through the two needles. Use threading wires if you have them, or tweezers. Pull both these and the two looper threads together under the pressure foot, lower the foot, turn your tension dials back to 5 and chain off. The thread sequence is important, mostly top looper, bottom looper, then needles, this is so much easier demonstrated than explained.

If you can find a classroom/shop offering overlocking user lessons, go take a couple, its well worth the money. Otherwise go to you-tube and watch all the videos you can search on sergers, threading, etc.

Good luck with your serger, please respond with 4 thumbs if this has been helpful to you. :-)

May 19, 2011 | Simplicity Serge Pro SW432 Mechanical...

1 Answer

I have been chaging my serger to overlock for the purpose ofdoing rolled overedge. Rethreaded numerous times, have read the instructions many, many times, setting tensions, etc. I cannot get it to even...


How frustrating, I've tried to find a manual on this model so I can see how you make the change to the thread finger on the throad but couldn't see one. So, I'll go through the set up for 3 thread rolled hem on mine, it probably won't be identical but it might help.

First, remove thread from left needle and remove the left needle from the holder leaving just the right hand needle in place. Most sergers have two seperate needle screws so this can be done but as you mentioned, recheck again that the right needle is right up into the housing as high as it will go. I presume you are using a fresh smaller size needle, especially if this is on a fine or lightweight woven like organza, I'd put in a size 70. If a mid weight then size 80.

Now there should be a thread finger on the foot you change with your screwdriver. Or a little switch you flick so that the throat plate is a different shape to form the narrow seam. Your manual should have this step.

Now if you have some, put wooly overlock thread into your top looper, I cut the thread about 10 inches above the tension dial, put the new spool on, knot it to the existing thread tail, turn tension to zero and pull it through and through the looper eye.

At this point, you should have the two looper threads loose, lift the pressure foot and pull these two threads under the foot and out the back. Turn tension back to about 3 on top looper and tighten up lower looper to 5 or 6 and leave needle at 5.

Adjust blade to cut quite wide, ie wind it to the right side. Now thread the right needle and pull this thread out the back too. Lower the pressure foot, introduce a piece of fabric in under the foot, press the pedal and start trimming and chaining off.

You should have a chain stitch happening now - if not, recheck your threading, particularly the needle, sometimes the thread looks like its in the needle eye but is hooking around the looper. If you still can't get any joy, then it is possible that the timing is just slightly out and this is affecting this stitch. You could try setting up for a normal three thread seam and see if this chains okay.

If you are getting a chain happening now, then adjust down the stitch length to make it denser so it is covering the fabric and check the underside, adjusting top and bottom looper tensions so the thread is enclosing the fabric end rolling to the underside and covering any little fibres.

I hope this is of some help - however, if it still isn't giving you a chain, it could be the timing is out in which case, unfortunately service time.


May 12, 2011 | Simplicity Serge Pro SW432 Mechanical...

1 Answer

Skipping stitches on coverstitch machine


To avoid skipped stitches on a coverstitch machine you need to use ELs (extra long) or SUK (stretch) needles and good quality thread. Poor quality thread is too fluffy and varies in thickness which can cause stitch problems. Try Maxilock thread from a cone or use maxilock on looper and regular sewing machine thread through needles and see if this improves the stitches. Also loosen off the lower looper tension to zero and see if this helps. If you are hemming around a garment and sewing across an overlocked seam then you need to minimise bulk too. lightly press the seams into the diretion you want them to sit when garment is finished, press the hem up, then force the seam allowance in the hem turnup area to the opposite direction. This spreads the seam bulk in both directions.
There is a knack to coverstitch machines but a good cover finish is quicker than twin needle on SM.

Apr 04, 2009 | Janome 900CP

1 Answer

Instructions for threading Baby lock eclipse BLE1LX for 2 thread sergering


I have just learned this :)
Either needle thread may be engaged for 2-thread serging.
1. Open the front cover and cutting blade cover, cut the upper looper thread just above the threading guide ( this is plate that has two holes for the threads) Raise the presser foot and pull out the clipped thread from under the foot. Remove upper thread from the machine (or you can leave the cone thread on, it doesn't matter).
2. Rotate the handwheel to bring the upper looper to its lowest position.
3. Rotate the subsidiary looper up and to the left, then slip the end into the upper looper thread eye from backside.(this sounds complicated, yes? but it is very simple : the looper has a counter part that is spring-locked to move from left to right and right to left. This is the little claw-looking part of the looper that when in the postion to serg with four threads is to the right side of the looper. It looks like a scorpion's tale. If you can't figure which part it is, use your finger to probe the looper and you'll feel it give a little. This part needs to be moved to the left - it will not slide over, but swing up and over and down, like an arch. Then, where the thread comes out of the looper is where you want the little claw-like part to hook into.)
4. Close the covers. Decrease the needel tension - this depends on what the stitch length is. Stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 3.0 = L needle n/a, R needle 1; upper looper n/a, lower looper 5
stitch length: 2-3, stitch width: 5.0 = L needle 0, R needle n/a, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5

Those are for a flatlock stitch - for a 2-thread rolled edge :
Stitch length: 0.5, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4.5, upper looper n/a, lower looper 3.5
Stitch lenght: 1.0, stitch width: M = L needle n/a, R needle 4, upper lopper n/a, lower looper 3.0

If you have any questions, e-mail me at knowgodnofear@bex.net

Aug 10, 2008 | Baby Lock Eclipse Serger

2 Answers

Threading a husqvarna huskylock 1001L serger


Solution taken from "Handbook for Huskylock Sewing Machine Models 1001L/1000L/1000"

1. Raise the presser foot by using presser foot lever. When the presser foot is raised, the two thread tension discs in the thread tension control panel are released so that thread passes freely between them. Otherwise thread tension may not be correct.

Important! When threading the needle, always be sure to lift the presser foot lever, and also take care to thread in the proper order.

Threading order:
1. Upper looper thread (green)
2. Lower looper thread (blue)
3. Double chain stitch looper thread (purple) in case of 5 thread stitch or double chain stitch
4. Right needle thread (red)
5. Left needle thread or double chain needle thread (yellow)

Caution!
Because the left thread tension dial (yellow) is used for either the left needle or the double chain stitch needle, these needles will never be used at the same time.

Upper looper (green) sequence:
1. Thread holder (silver triangle openings attached to thread holder stand)
2. Thread guide (flat silver clips just behind thread tension disc)
3. Thread tension disc (circular knobs with numbers for tension setting)
4. Pull thread around upper looper guide and upper looper
5. Pull thread into hole of upper looper

Lower looper (blue)
Repeat 1, 2, 3.
4. Pull thread around guide (see color coded chart inside front serger cover).

Easy threading mechanism (for lower looper)
1. Pull out the lower looper threading lever
2. Thread the lower looper and position the thread on hook of the lower looper
threading lever.
3. Push the lower looper threading lever back to its basic position while
holding the end of the thread.

Caution:
When returning the lower looper threading lever, always make sure that the two
blue triangle marks (directional arrows) meet each other.

Right needle thread (red)
Left needle thread (yellow)
Important: Thread the needles after threading of lower looper and upper looper.
First raise the presser foot lever, and then thread the needle threads in order shown in color coded thread guide.




Jun 24, 2008 | Sewing Machines

1 Answer

No stitches 925D.


Probably your looper timing is off. This is common, and just a necessary evil of sergers. Their tolerances are tight.
The operation of creating a serger stitch is a succession of thread grabing and delivering. One looper grabs a thread and delivers it to the needle and so on.
To check this, turn your handwheel slowly and check to see that the upper looper is meeting the lower looper by passing very close to the indented part at the back of the lower looper (indented part is called the scarf, this is where the looper threads form a lock) If not, it's the looper timing. If they seem to meet properly then check your needle. Is your needle up into the needle clamp all the way? Try a new needle. Even a slight bend to the needle will not allow the loopers to meet and grab or deliver thread. You might check the tensions. Thread has to have some resistance in order for the loopers to do their job,

If your looper timing is off, find a sewing repair person to retime the serger. Don't try it yourself or put this repair off. If the loopers go further out of timing, they might hit something and replacement can be costly.

Nov 18, 2007 | Brother 929D Mechanical Sewing Machine

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