Question about Microwave Ovens
Had marble counters installed a few years back and now need to replace my over range microwave. Unfortunately the marble range back splash continues up the wall to the bottom of the microwave limiting the height of the unit I am looking for to just 14 3/4" at the wall.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Sharp Carousel R-1461A
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
It may be the fuse, which is usually located on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
We have critical safety & disassembly info (including a how-to video) at our site, linked here.
You can probably find exploded views and order parts by entering your model number here at the Sears parts site.
The best place to order Sharp parts is Tritronics.
We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Jul 19, 2008
You can call Sharp and ask them what current models if any will be drop-in replacements,either using the same mounting hardware or at least the same space.
You can contact Sharp at 1-800-BE-SHARP (1-800-237-4277) or visit them online.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Oct 19, 2008
The part you need is PDIFB026/KIT. Sears parts has it listed for $45.49 plus shipping, taxes, etc. (I get a lot of repair parts through them. They are very reasonable. It's also a good place to start when looking for a part. They have exploded views and parts listings for a lot of appliances. Then you can shop around once you have the part number you need.)
For your oven, here's the page:
You're looking for item 2-2 on the drawing.
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
I know this is late, but I have instructions for this unit. Remove the grease filters on the bottom. Inside the exposed hole there should be two gold colored bars. These are attached to plates at the top of the until which hook onto the mounting plate. Undo the screws at the bottoms of the bars and pull them down. This will unhook the unit from the top of the wall plate. Roll the unit forward and unhook from wall plate.
Posted on Feb 18, 2009
i just checked my R-3A36 manual to find out the wattage. it's 800 watts. i make pralines in my microwave. i am always asked for the recipe. so i needed to be able to tell people the wattage of my oven so they can adjust the recipe to their oven.
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
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