Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore dryer error
i opened the unit and replaced a 1.25A fuse which had blown. check your wiring diagram. look in back panel and check the little fuses but this is the one you need to replace. 1.25a thats the main cause of this error
Posted on Jul 30, 2007
F01 - There may be an internal problem with the control, attempt a Hard Reset.
Hard Reset - In some cases the control can be non-functioning or may not accept activation from the control panel. To clear and restart the control follow the these steps:
* Unplug or turn the circuit breaker off for 30 seconds.
* Reconnect the unit to the power source by turning the breaker back on or plugging the unit back into the wall outlet.
* Press the Pause/Cancel/Stop button twice to clear the "PF" in the display.
* Start a short cycle to check the operation of the machine by selecting a cycle and pressing and holding the start button until the machine starts.
The F01 generally indicates a failed electronic machine control board.
This error code can sometimes be caused by a glitch or power surge through the electrical lines.
You may be able to clear this code by unplugging the washer for 5 minutes.
If the code returns after plugging the washer back in, then the electronic machine control board will need to be replaced.
The procedure for accessing and replacing this control board is shown in this image...
Be sure to unplug the washer before accessing internal components.
When you access the control board, I recommend transferring the wires from the old control board to the new replacement control board one connection at a time.
Once you have all of the wires transferred, remove the old control board and mount the new control board in the washer.
Reassemble and test the washer.
The "F01" error code indicates a communication error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and the EEPROM onboard the CCU.
The "F01" can also be displayed if the onboard "Pump Driver" fails to activate.
Generally in order to correct this failure will require replacing the CCU.
There is no way to test and verify if the control board has failed.
The technical data sheet basically states to replace the CCU.
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Posted on Sep 25, 2010
The F70 and F71 error codes on this model of washer indicates a communication problem between the user interface control board and the central control unit (main control board). These error codes can sometimes be caused by a power surge or glitch through the electrical lines. Try unplugging the washer to completely disconnect electrical power. Wait 1 minute and then plug the washer back in to the see if the fault code clears. If it does, then the washer may work normally.
If the code reappears, then you could have a wire harness connection problem, a failed user interface control board or a failed central control unit. I recommend calling a service technician to properly diagnose and repair this type of problem so that the correct component can be replaced.
Be sure your unit is plugged into a 3 prong grounded outlet as well.
F71 is a "heatbeat failure" which means that your front interface control board is shorted and will need to be replaced. it's actually fairly easy to replace and can definitely be done by yourself. To access the part, just pull the unit forward and remove the 3 screws coming in from the back of the top panel. Remove the top panel by pulling it back, up, and off. Then remove all the screws going into the top of the control panel. Remove the dispenser drawer and remove the screws coming in through the dispenser. Remove the screws coming from the inside of the dryer going forward into the control panel, then remove the control panel (it's just clipped in on the bottom. After that you can disconnect the wire harnesses to the front interface control board and replace that part.
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Posted on Sep 28, 2010
Symptom: Dryer turns on, drum spins, but you have no heat.
Any of the following components are more than likely suspect as being bad:
All these components COMBINED, should cost less than $100. If you fix it yourself, you will avoid the additional cost for labor.
If the dryer isn't blowing ANY air at all, but the drum still turns, you may have a bad blower fan assembly inside the dryer. Or, the blower fan assembly may be clogged.
If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be for a reason. You need to ask yourself when the last time you cleaned the dryer ventilation. If you can't remember, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to the dryer failing. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat and eventually fail. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced. Remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and inspect it thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs. If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect. RULE OF THUMB: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent duct, the BETTER. After you inspect the vent ducting, turn the dryer on and make sure you have forceful air flow coming form the dryer. This will prove that your blower fan is working properly or not. Since you stated that your dryer is not currently heating, the air will be cold, but you should still have some force behind it. If the air flow is weak, you need to clean the duct work INSIDE the dryer. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. I recommend once per season (that's 4 times per year). Dryers are the cause of many house fires. These fires are due to lint accumulations inside the unit catching on fire. A little preventive maintenance can prevent significant problems in the future.
Getting to the heating circuit to determine if the components are good or bad is the next step. If your dryer has the lint screen on the top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel of the dryer to expose the heating circuits. If the dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by using a putty knife to release the retaining clips. They will be located along the seam in the front about 2 inches in from each side. If this is a Kenmore Elite or Whirlpool Duet, the lower lick panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge of the panel. (HINT: placing a block of wood under the front feet of the dryer can make access much easier). If your dryer has no lower kick panel, you have to remove the entire front panel on these models. This is accomplished by lifting the dryer top and removing the screws that hold the front panel in place.
NOTE: The heating circuit should be troubleshot with the dryer UNPLUGGED. Dangerous voltages are still present with the dryer turned off. Resistance readings are as follows:
Heating Element (located inside heater box) - remove the two leads from the ceramic terminals on the heating element and take a reading across the terminal points. It should read 9 - 13 ohms.
Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) (mounted to the heater box.) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
Hi-Limit Thermostat (mounted to the heater box, closest to the heating element leads) - unplug wires and take reading across connector tabs. Reading should be 0 ohms.
If any of the above readings are abnormal, replace the component. NOTE: If the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat is defective it is highly recommended by most manufacturers to replace BOTH components at the same time. They are often sold as a set. Without doing so, these components can cause potentially fail again.
NOTE: One item I failed to mention - Double check the input power for your dryer FIRST. You should have 220VAC at the receptacle and terminal block. The dryer will STILL tumble and the timer will still function with a portion of the input power missing as these circuits only require 110VAC. The heating circuits, however, require 220VAC to function. If one leg of the receptacle voltage is missing the dryer may exhibit "No Heat" like symptoms. This could also be an indication of a burned or failed power cord. Continuity checks performed with the dryer UNPLUGGED should indicate a short between the prong end of the cord and the respective lugs at the terminal block.
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Posted on Sep 30, 2010
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...
It will help you determine what is happening there...
Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise
Asker's Testimonial "That answer was very informative - thank you fortaking the time to educate me. " - teresa241964
Posted on Oct 06, 2010
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