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I have a Trane XE 1000, Model TWR 030C100A4 ; Mfg. 01/98, the compressor fan is not running, as I was checking it the black wire came off of it's contact. Where does it connect to ?

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

SOURCE: I ha ve a trane xe 1200 hvac the fan runs but when

Hello Let it cool off,Install a hard start kit on the run capasitor.It is just 2 plug on wires.It just might start it,If not look for LRA amp rating on the name plate if it is 90 it is locked up.Try the kit I have seen it work.

Posted on Jul 22, 2010

Bat1956
  • 585 Answers

SOURCE: CAN'T GET COMPRESSOR TO COME ON ON MY XE 1000 TRANE

Often when I work on something and it quits after a short while it is the result of something I disturbed in making the repair. I would check the connections to the compressor, the start/run capacitor, and the low pressure switch if there is one. Sometimes the slip-on terminals used on capacitors and the like are easily yielded in removal/reconnection and when that happens they can be resistive, causing them to fail from overheating. Also check the low pressure switch for continuity (again if there is one).

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

shastalaker7
  • 1515 Answers

SOURCE: Trane Weathertron xe 1000, outside

Hi, Trane weathertron are top of the line units, and I have had extensive schooling on all tranes, commercial Intellipaks and Voyagers. If the fan has stopped, the bearings in this fan are failing and that's what you hear humming this motor or most likely the contactor. If it is easy for you to remove the fan guard ( power off ) you can turn the prop/blade and see how tight the bearings are. Carfefully, place your hand on the body to see if it is hot. If the hum is not from the motor, it will be from the contactor pulled in when in cooling mode, causing a load on it due to the condenser fan motor failing. Look on the front and rear of the motor for small caps that would be for oil. Most motors have sealed bearings now, but they still use ones that need a few drops of 20 weight oil during service of the unit. If you do, you might try going to a hardware store to get a plastic oiler bottle with the telescopic spout to reach these bearings and try to oil them for a $1.20. This may get you back on line again, only if you do have this type of bearing. Another part to check would be the dual run capacitor in the control section on the outdoor unit. Normally round and silver/gray in color, some are plastic and they look like a small can of V-8 juice with several wires coming out the top. Others are shaped like a flask without the top, lol. It will have 3- sets of connectors on it. Marked Herm., fan, and C for common. Look it over well, at the top, sides, and bottom. If you see any sings of a swollen and distorted top or body, the top swollen up, like its ready to burst, or it has and you see oil all over it, this is why the motor has failed or will not run. Replace this first as the cost is around $15.00 or so. If you have a Granger's supply, they will have them. If not, a appliance parts house. This capacitor gives your condenser fan motor and compressor a boost upon starting and keeps them running a speed at all times. If they fail, the motor could or will fail in time and so will the compressor. If it looks good, no oil leaks, you will need to have your condenser fan motor replaced. This motor works the hardest of all, in the heat plus the heat the motor gives off so its not unusual to loose this motor. At the start of summer, my crew no to stock there vans with all types of condenser motors and run caps, 1/8, 1/4, 1/3, 1,2, 3/4, and 1h.p. on commercial units. On your contactor, you will see it, it has either 1 or 2 sets of contacts on it and this is where your high voltage leads come in and connect. They will be black and some burned places. I would with power off if you have a small piece of fine sanding cloth or paper is to try and clean them up some. This is not a must. So, if all looks good, and the motor is hot, it has failed. A a/c company should charge you around $150.00 to replace this motor and they come with there own single run cap just for the motor. They will need to make a few changes on the wiring of the new motor and cap. Its around a hour to change out, plus maybe a truck or trip charge. Ask them about all charges. I am sorry for such a long solution, I just wanted to tell you a little about your unit and give you some experience. Please keep me posted and rate me if you will. I will be here if you need me for anymore help. Thank you for using Fixya.com
Sincerely,
Shastalaker7
A/C & Heating Contractor

Posted on Jul 01, 2010

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Often when I work on something and it quits after a short while it is the result of something I disturbed in making the repair. I would check the connections to the compressor, the start/run capacitor, and the low pressure switch if there is one. Sometimes the slip-on terminals used on capacitors and the like are easily yielded in removal/reconnection and when that happens they can be resistive, causing them to fail from overheating. Also check the low pressure switch for continuity (again if there is one).

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