Question about Kenmore 15864/15862 Top Load Washer

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Not spinning out of rinse cycle just repaired? coupling

However after repaired brake and drive tube worn from new metal piece in center of coupling now repair cost. Is it worth repairing brake and drive tube with clutch assembly?

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If the machine is more than 5 years old, and knowing I can buy a new one for around $300 is how i'd bas my decision.  Also the new one has a warranty

Posted on Apr 03, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Washer is a Samsung WWF337AAW-XAC. Just prior to the spin cycle we hear a rattling or grating noise and then it rattles throughout the spin cycle. It will sometimes rattle at the end of the rinse cycle but...


hi Rick.
Reasons a washer will make noise during spin mode:
1. Main tub bearing faulty
2. Main drive pulley
3. Motor coupling worn
4. Bad clutch
5. Worn out drive belt
6. Clogged or damaged drain pump
7. Transmission is worn out
8. Shock absorber (front loader washers)
9. Springs or dampening straps (top load washers)
10. Agitator directional cogs aka "agitator dogs" (top load washers
When the washer spins, it rides on a bearing that allows the tub to move freely with zero resistance. If this bearing is worn out, a loud noise will be heard when the washer spins. A good way to tell if your washer problem is the main tub bearing will be that the washer noise will get worse or louder as time goes on. This means the bearing is becoming more worn out and close to complete failure. The bearing in your washing machine is a circular metal object that has many small little metal balls inside. These small metal balls inside the bearing sit in a track and move when the washer is spinning. If the tub bearing begins to wear out, usually the small metal balls inside can fall out one by one causing the noise you hear. (If your washing machine is a front load washer, open the door and turn the drum by hand. If you hear a rubbing sound or the drum spins uneven, then the main tub bearing is most likely bad and needs replaced.)
Washing machine tub bearing

Washer has noise during spin cycle

The bearing may also be without lubrication. If the sound you hear is more of a squeaking noise than a grinding noise, it may mean the bearing needs to be lubricated with a mechanical grease. If the sound is more of a grinding noise, then this usually means the bearing is falling apart and will need to be replaced ASAP. If you suspect your washers main tub bearing is worn out, the repair process is one of the most difficult to perform yourself. A worn bearing can also damage the tub of the washer. This means the tub (inner or outer) may need to be replaced also.
A washer making a loud noise during spin cycle can also be caused by a faulty drive pulley. The pulley is what the belt (if applicable to your washer) rides on to spin your washers tub. The pulley can be made of plastic or metal. It could be simply worn out or just loose. To find out if the drive pulley is causing the noise, you will need to take the washer apart and inspect the pulley for signs of damage.
WASHER MOTOR PULLEY
The motor coupling could also be the cause of the loud noise. The motor coupling in your washer connects the washers transmission to the motor. It is made of plastic and built to break if the washer gets overloaded. This is so the motor and the transmission do not become damaged. The motor coupling is an easier repair and can be done by most people.




Washer Washing Machine Motor Drive Coupling Coupler
The clutch in a washing machine connects the inner wash tub to the transmission. The clutch lets the washer get to the proper spin RPM in a gradual way. If the clutch is worn it can make noise when the washer is spinning. A bad clutch needs to be removed and replaced to stop the noise.
Washing Machine Clutch
The belt in your washer can become worn and cause noise while spinning. If worn out, replace the belt. Replacing the drive belt on a washing machine is an easy task and can be ordered online for less.
Washing machine belt
The drain pump in your washer that drains the water out could be clogged or damaged. While in spin mode, your washer may drain out the water by using the drain pump. If the loud noise only happens at certain intervals during the spin cycle, it may be the drain pump. Usually this can be fixed by simply removing the drain pump and removing any debris that may be clogging it up causing the noise.
Drain Pump for Washing Machine




The next part of your washer that can be causing a loud noise is the transmission. If the transmission is bad, usually the cost to fix this outweighs the cost of a new washer.
If you have a front loading washing machine, they all have shock absorbers. The shock absorbers are used to center the tub movement while in the spin cycle. These shock absorbers are connected from the washer frame to the outer tub. If the shock absorbers in your front loader become weak the washer will make a loud banging sound during the spinning cycle.
Shock Absorber for washing machine
Top load washers usually have springs or dampening straps holding the tub centered. If a spring or strap falls off or becomes weak, a loud noise will be heard in spin mode. Simply replace the strap, spring, or springs to remedy this issue.
Washing machine suspension springs
Agitator directional cogs are used to operate the upper part of dual action agitators (Top load washers). They engage the cogs on the inner area of the agitator as it turns in one direction. They release when the agitator reverses its direction. This lets the top part of the agitator to ratchet in only one direction. The bottom part will agitate in both directions. The cogs are made of plastic and wear out with regular use. They will start slipping and make a grinding noise. Another way to be sure that this part is bad is if you notice the top portion of the agitator does not move in a smooth motion. Removing the top half of the agitator to see if the cogs are worn out.

Dec 08, 2017 | Washing Machines

2 Answers

No spin cycle,on any setting. seem like it wants to spin but can't


you have a bad motor coupling,they brake all the time,remove the two screws holding down the top console,lift it up,with a screw driver remove the two metal clips and remove the lid switch harness,it's a white plastic piece in the middle between the two metal clips,now remove the frame of the washer,down the bottom you'll see the pump,with a screw driver remove the two metal clips and remove the pump,now remove the two screws and two more metal clips and remove the motor,on the back of the motor you'll see the motor coupling,it should have three plastic arms on it but they probably are broke,also on the tranny the other half of the coupling is there remove that,the part number is 285753A and it's around 19 bucks, tap on the new coupling one part on the motor shaft,the other on the tranny shaft and slide the black rubber piece on the tranny part of coupling and slide the motor onto the other half so they lock together and this is what spins the tub.if you need help with anything else let me know,also if you can let me know how you make out with your washer,good luck. the coupling brakes all the time from overloading the washer<!-- from fixya rte -->

Aug 06, 2010 | Kenmore 24032\24036 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Loud noise when in rinse cycle


Hi,
It sounds like your main bearing has gone out. It's quite an expense to fix and generally isn't worth fixing even if you do the repair yourself as the parts run about $600 by themselves and it takes about 1/2 a day to replace them. You can't replace the bearing itself so you have to replace the rear half of the outter tub and the inner tub.

Check your motor coupling, it is between the motor and transmission,made of rubber and plastic, if it is not broken and you heard a lot of screaching ,i would say it is your basket drive tube-could have gotten worn down on the bottom around the clutch brake area! Better purchase a used basket drive tube,install it with a new clutch and it will start working for you.

Thank you !!

Jun 03, 2010 | Maytag Neptune MAH5500B Front Load Washer

1 Answer

My maytage washer would make a terrible screaching noise during spin cycle..now no spin cycle and something smells like electrical burning...I unplugged the machine. What has happened and what needs to be...


check your motor coupling, it is between the motor and transmission,made of rubber and plastic, if it is not broken and you heard a lot of screaching ,i would say it is your basket drive tube-could have gotten worn down on the bottom around the clutch brake area! mine sheared off the brass t post on the bottom of the drive tube,which my clip holding on the brake release arm fell off ,arm fell off and thus no spin,i bought a used basket drive tube installed it with a new clutch and is working fine now! a lot of work though to replace it

Feb 15, 2010 | Maytag PAV2300 Top Load Washer

1 Answer

The spin cycle is not working. I already replaced the clutch assembly. Still, it did not wrok.


when you replaced the clutch did you look at the bottom of your basket drive tube to see if it was worn down,also the white plastic brake release arm could have the 2 little lineup pins broken off, or your drive block could be worn out,it is under your agitator,,,,,i found out on my machine that the bottom of the basket drive tube has a brass t post and the thrust washer had worn it off completely,the clip that holds the brake release arm fell off and broke those 2 little fingers off the arm,,,,,,i had to buy a used basket drive tube installed it with a new clutch and now the spin cycle works fine !! give it a good look at

Feb 15, 2010 | Kenmore Washing Machines

1 Answer

Spinning cycle


When it is spinning, there is no agitation. Why? there is 1 motor with 2 directions to provide sinning and agitation by 2 different mechanisms. The sound from spinning, and rinsing could be some worn out parts from the mechanism need to be inspected and replaced accordingly such as the pulley, the clutch, the brake and 8 springs from bottom tube hung to the chassis to keep the tube balance under the load. Hope this can help.

Jan 08, 2010 | Whirlpool LSN1000LW Top Load Washer

1 Answer

My maytag washer won't turn or spin..


This advice is for certain Maytag TOP LOADING washers equipped with a vertical transmission and drive belt system.

Loud squeaking noises during the wash cycle or, at the end of the spin cycle, can be attributed to a worn snubber ring and/or brake assembly. The snubber is a plastic ring located under the tub support. It helps to reduce vibration as the tub agitates and spins. You cannot lubricate the snubber to get rid of the noise. In fact, you may damage the washer if you do. A small amount of corn starch can be sprinkled under the bottom tub support where the snubber ring is located to get rid of some noise related problems (this will be the round metal plate where the tub support meets the bottom casing of the machine). A worn snubber will also cause some vibration or out of balance problems. The brake tends to glaze over after it has become worn and will squeak or cause sudden jerking of the washer when the spin cycle stops. If the corn starch tip does not get rid of the squeaks, I would recommend replacing the following parts:

Brake Stator
Brake Rotor and Lining
Snubber:


You will need: Brake Removal Kit*

*Brake removal tool is required in order to remove the brake assembly and/or to replace the snubber. There is a 200lbs brake spring located under the Brake Stator that must be compressed PRIOR to removal or you could cause injury to yourself.

The parts required to make the repairs aren't very expensive, but the tool required to do it can cost about $100. This repair I would rate as DIFFICULT for the average do-it-yourselfer. If you've never worked on this type of washer before, this is not a job that I would recommend. However, Maytag DOES provide informative how-to instructions with all their parts.

To replace the snubber and brake assembly:

1. Remove the front case of the washer to access the washer interior.
2. Tilt the washer towards the back and remove the drive belt. Slide the drive motor towards the center pulley to relieve belt tension.
3. Remove the drive pulley by removing the center cap and retaining ring from the drive shaft. Remember how these components go back together. There should be a couple of plastic drive bearing pieces and some metal washers above the pulley on the shaft.
3. Lower washer and remove hoses from the wash tub.
4. Remove the suspension springs. NOTE: Pulling the wash tub towards the spring you are removing will release some of the tension on it.
5. I usually remove the entire wash tub with transmission still installed at this point and place it upside down outside the washer for ease of accessing everything. (There are other methods, but I find this one easier).
6. This is where the brake compression tool will be required to remove the brake rotor, stator and snubber ring. (Instructions come with the tool). Basically, it involves compressing the spring by turning the compression tool CW with a wrench, loosening all the bolts on the brake stator housing, and then slowly turning the compression tool CCW.
7. The brake compression tool is removed at this point and the snubber, brake rotor, brake stator and brake spring can be accessed.
8. Replace any worn parts, and reassemble the brake assembly. DO NOT forget to place the brake spring back in place before putting the brake rotor back on.
9. Place the tub assembly right side up and lower back into washer.
10. Reconnect all hoses back to wash tub.
11. Reinstall all tub suspension springs. NOTE: It’s easier to start in the back of the washer and work your way towards the front.
12. Tilt washer back and reinstall drive pulley. NOTE: When placing drive pulley back on shaft turn pulley slightly to ensure it is seated all the way on the shaft. NOTE: If the shaft had multiple metal washers, you may only need ONE after replacing the snubber ring. Retain the extra washer for later use if needed. If the drive pulley is reinstalled correctly, a groove will be visible at the end of the drive shaft for the retaining ring to go back in place.
13. Reinstall drive belt.

NOTE: The following link lists the recommended tools to complete this repair:

Spring Removal Tool (item #455570)
Brake/Bearing/Seal Removal Tool Kit (item #997909)

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Jan 03, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Whirlpool washer fills up; makes LOUD whine/click metal noise


sounds as if you have a bad mootor coupling, part number 285753, easy enough part to change, easier to search on the you tube site for whirlpool motor coupling repair, fo rthe video, then try to explain procedure, but definalty easy enough repair for home owner

Nov 19, 2008 | Whirlpool Ultimate Care II LSQ9549L Top...

2 Answers

Kenmore...no drain but clicks instead...agitates and drains fine 110.92195110


not sur if you found your problem bu I found what was happening with my washer. I pulled the trans and motor assembly out and found a plastic gear / cam broken. I think the part number is 64194. it's found between the clutch and drive to the drum.

Jan 06, 2008 | GE Profile WPRE6100G Top Load Washer

1 Answer

Kenmore 110.92195110


those parts come as a complete kit. order a brake assembly.

Jan 06, 2008 | Kenmore 22422 Top Load Washer

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