I have a carrier 2 ton electric furnace/ heat pump system. I have been running the auxilliary heat for the past 2 years, and it worked fine until last night. Now it blows cold air. I checked the breaker 3 times, by switching it on and off, double checked and replaced the filter, and even shut it off for a while, but still blows cold.
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Re: auxilliary heat just started blowing cold air
SOund like you heating element has a open limit or the sequencer is bad. Another thing that it may be is the element wire has broken. Either way it sounds like you need a technician to come out and repair.
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this model number you gave is for an electric furnace , most often its found in mobile homes , if its undersized for the load of the home a larger unit is needed , if I look at this one right here , it says this one will provide 3.6 tons of heat this size will only heat a small area (about 15x25x7 feet ) and wall insulation will help increase this too , also the wall thermostat will " cycle" the heater on an off due to demand , if its placed in a drafty spot then that will affect proformance as well
A heat pump on the optimal heating day (about 50 degrees ambient) will only deliver approximately 85 degree air as compared to 125 degree air from a fossil fueled furnace. The colder the outdoor air is the less heat there is available to be transferred to the living space. At 30 degrees, the heat transfer capability is getting close to negligible meaning the run cycles will be approaching continuous and eventually as the heat pump along cannot maintain setpoint, the outdoor stat or stats will bring on auxilliary heat in the air handler.
If your ambient temp is below the 'balance point' of the heat pump, the house temp will drop a little lower and most times energize the heat strips through the outdoor t-stat. Your outdoor stat could be set too low for the heat pump to carry the structure all the way down to the balance point so when you turn it off and back on, the lower indoor temp automatically brings on the heat pump plus a heat strip or two, thus the warmer air. Second stage on the stat satisfies due to the heat strip, drops them out of the circuit and the heat pump is left running on first stage heat delivering the perceived cold air.
Your outdoor stat could also be not functioning correctly and not allowing the heaters to come on until the system is turned back on reestablishing the two stage call for heat.
Tons of possibilities and not enough room to list....
Are you referring a to an electric furnace providing the heat, the heat pump providing the heat, a heat pump providing heat usually with an auxillary/emergency electric heating unit, or an air conditioner with an electric furnace attached? If your system normally uses a heat pump for the heat normally, there is an eletric auxilliary heater. You'll probably need to turn it on at the thermostat manually when the outside temp gets below 40 degrees. If you have it nice system, it might do it automatically. If you're referring to the electric heater being rated 8 kw, it'll run using 8kw when you turn it on. It doesn't have the ability to change what heat rating it is. If you're refurring to the heat pump system being rated 8kw, you're probably mistaken. A heat pump might possibly consume 8kw to run the system but that can't be a measure of the system's capacity. Heat pump measurement units are rated in tons, but the system will always run at the same ton capacity whenever it's on, provided it doesn't need any maintenance. Some commercial air conditioning and heating systems have to ability to modify their power output based on the outside temperature, but I doubt you're dealing with that kind of thing.
electric furnaces turn on the heat in stages so you dont get a major surge. the fan and the "first stage of heat" are on the same switch. that switch is stuck closed, so that it always has power going thru it. it needs to be replaced
I would suspect you have a problem in the defrost circuit of your heat pump. there are a couple of things you can try. first just run the system on emergency heat and see what happens. you could have a defrost board that is shorting when it kicks into defrost. it sends a signal back to the furnace so it will come on during defrost. if you do not blow a fuse as long as you are running in emergency heat, i would suspect the defrost control board. also you could have a dead short in the wire that runs from the "w" terminal on furnace control board, out to the heat pump. keep in mind that any of the wires could be the cause and i am just tying to give you the most common things. your furnace will still run if you unhook all the low voltage wiring out at the heat pump. if you do this and stop blowing fuses. you know it is something on that wiring. goodl luck.
Make sure a back draft in the flue is not happening. Wind can blow it out until the flue heats up. The flame sensor may not be close enough to the burner flame. It may be weak and need to be replaced or if its an optical one it may be dirty and not see the flame very well. Its not wasting much gas but it puts extra wear and tear on the gas controls, is noisy, and, as you said, blows cold drafty air. A gas control system that has issues of any kind is not real safe. It needs to get fixed.
Hi!!! Does your ac unit work fine?If not check your low voltage problem..You have a low voltage problem check the wire going out to your condensor make sure that they are not touching..Good luck..Check low voltage wires..short in progress..
It is normal. Your house has to go down a couple more degrees because the heat pump is not working. You can solve this by rewirng you thermostat. Take off the wire that goes to Y and tape off. Then take the wires that are marked w and e or w1 and put the wires to yellow. Do not run ac with it wired like this. If you need more information please post me back