Ok, here's my problem.Someone stole my music my 12's out of the trunk of my car but my amp is still there. now my cd deck won't work at all because the wires were hooked up to my 12's. so here's the Question.how do i either hook the amp to work through my normal factory speakers or just period hook up the factory speakers to my deck?
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I have been installing car audio for over 40 years.A small adapter like you use to charge a phone,Doe,s not have enough amps in it to run the deck (Properly) When you crank up the vollume, The deck will cut out, You Can buy a bigger 12 Volt power supply from radio shack or the source that will power it (Properly) It should be at least 3 amp output .
If you have volume but cannot control it, this is a common problem. The volume is optical so it may just have dust in it, but I have had zero luck cleaning them. The only solution I know is to replace the whole head unit.
If you have an HK factory stereo with no volume at all, and the four channels went out one at a time, the amp in the trunk has failed. Another common problem. The amp is on the driver side above the wheel well. You have to remove the driver side rear deck speaker to get the trunk lining off without tearing it. The screws that hold in the speaker are beneath the speaker grill in the rear deck. Good luck getting a 15-year-old speaker grill up without breaking the snaps. Slide a putty knive in from the sides to try to release them, but they will break anyway.
If the amp has failed, you can just bypass the amp but you will have no subs or tweeters. I did that while looking for a good deal on a junkyard amp. You can buy a new HK amp from BMW but they are prohibitively expensive. You could buy an alternate brand amp and add crossover circuits to power the subs and tweeters if you are really handy with electronics.
If you have an HK system in your BMW and you replace the head unit, use the antenna power wire from the new stereo as the 'on' signal for your HK amp in the trunk. Your FM may not work quite as well because the BMW head unit communicates with the antenna amplifier. Also, if you have a BMW CD changer in your trunk, no other head unit will communicate with that other than the original BMW head unit.
Other than the CD changer and the antenna amplifier, the wiring adapter that you can get from Crutchfield or from Amazon will make the stereo head unit replacement plug-and-play.
You may need a special five-sided wrench to get the old stereo out. You can buy that wrench on line if you can't force some other tool into those two cap screws that hold the stereo in.
verify your amps input. hook up a portable cd player with a headphone to rca "y" adapter to the amp and try that, to make sure it isnt an issue with the reciever/cd deck oir the input circuit. if the amp works correctly with the protable cd player/ walkman.mp3 player whatever, instead of the car deck, then something is wrong with your decks audio output. if it does not work with a secondary input device then perhaps you have the power hooked wrong. there should be both a red and yellow power lead from the amp, the red should be connected directly to the battery, and the yellow to the "acc on" (any circuit that turns on only when the car or stereo is turned on, sometimes connected directly to the stereo). both can be connected directly to the battery, but the yellow would need a switch, in that case, to turn the amp off when not in use.
I had the same problem when I changed out the factory cd player. I finally found the problem was that grand am gt cars have a couple of amplifiers with crossovers in them for the speakers and the after market stereos put out sound that has been slightly amplified already and when you hook up your new stereo to the wiring harness your sending amplified sound from your stereo the the factory amp then to the speakers this sometimes messes with he sound and clarity of the sound. My car is 2002 and the factory amps are located 1 under the glove box and 2 in the trunk behind the carpet on the drivers side. The amp and crossover in the front is to split the signal for the door speaker and the tweeter by the mirror and the amp in the trunk is to split the signal for the two way speaker in the back by the back window witch if they are like my factory speakers have 2 wiring harnesses connected to each speaker. the only way I could get mine to sound good was to run new wires from your stereo directly to the speakers and bypass the factory amps. This may not be the only way to fix this issue but it was the only way I could figure it out. I hope this helps
DOES THE RADIO PLAY? HERE ARE THE FACTORY WIRING COLORS FOR THE RADIO HARNESS, RECHECK YOUR WORK. IF U FIND NOTHING THEN IF THE RADIO PLAYS THE CD PLAYER IS DEFECTIVE, IT HAPPENS BELIEVE ME.
2001 Chrysler 300M Car Stereo Wiring Diagram Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Pink Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Red/White Car Radio Ground Wire: Chassis or Strap Car Radio Illumination Wire: N/A Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Orange Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: Orange/Red Car Stereo Cell Phone Mute Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: N/A Car Stereo Amplifier Location: Located under the rear deck in the trunk. Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Green Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Red Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Violet Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Blue/Red Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown/Yellow Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Brown/Light Blue Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue/White Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Blue/Orange