Question about Urban Rebounder Folding Trampoline Workout System

Open Question

My rebounder came missing a short leg with the stabilzer bar tube

The rebounder is missing a short leg. It's the one with a tube to hold the stabilizer leg.

Posted by Anonymous on

Ad

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Ive just replaced the fork seals on my non ABS 1990 st and noticed that one fork leg rebounds faster than the other. Is this correct and is this why the fork legs are of different inners?


Uneven rebound is caused by unequal volumes of damping oil in the legs or a broken or weak spring. Not sure why one inner tube is different, but it may mean the quantity of oil differs in the left and right forks?

I re-categorized to Honda Motorcycles for you.

Aug 24, 2015 | Honda Motorcycles

1 Answer

How to install lower sliders on 2008 ultra classic


Loosen the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug at the top of the fork tube, but do not remove it at this time. THEN loosen the pinch bolt (with lockwasher) in the lower fork bracket, but do not remove it. THEN spray glass cleaner like Windex on the fork tube above the rubber fork stop and after so lubricating the surfaces move the fork stop up the fork tube until it contacts the bottom of the upper fork bracket. THEN, while holding the fork slider to prevent the fork from dropping, remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug and slide the fork tube down and out of the upper fork bracket, the fork stop, the lower fork bracket, and the slider cover. THEN thread the fork cap bolt back into the fork tube plug to prevent loss of fork oil while handling the removed fork assembly. THEN move the fork to your work bench area and place a suitable drain pan on the floor underneath your vise. NOW or later you can similarly remove the other fork tube assembly.

IT IS HANDY to have a HD-41177 FORK TUBE HOLDER or similar tool.

On the first fork remove the nuts, the lockwashers, the flat washer and the axle holder from the studs at the end of the fork slider. THEN clamp end of a fork holder tool in your vise in a horizontal position with the tightening fasteners facing toward you and with the fork cap bolt at the top clamp the fork tube in between the rubber pads on the inside of the tool and tighten the fasteners to securely hold the fork tube assembly. THEN remove the fork cap bolt from the fork tube plug and remove and throw away the quad ring seal. Thenslowly unthread the fork tube plug from the fork tube being AWARE that the fork tube plug is under spring pressure which requires you to have a firm grasp on plug as the last thread is turned. THEN remove the O-ring from fork tube plug and throw it away. THEN remove the fork spring from the fork tube and remove the fork assembly from the fork tube holder. THEN turn the fork upside down and drain the fork oil into the drain pan by slowly pumping the fork tube and slider at least ten times being aware that the damper valve, if it has one, may fall out of the inverted fork tube while you are draining it. THEN With the wear ring at the bottom, i.e. with the spring side up, slide the damper valve back into the fork tube when it has been fully drained.

THEN for further disassembly install the fork spring back into the fork tube place a shop rag on the floor, and turn the fork assembly upside down and press the end of spring against the rag. Push down and compress the spring to prevent the damper tube from turning and then remove the6mm screw from end of fork slider with a strong short stroke impact wrench and 12 mm Allen socket adapter for best results. When the screw and washer are removed throw away the 6mm screw and copper crush washer. THEN remove the fork spring, the damper valve (if it has one) and the damper tube from fork tube. THEN remove the wear ring and the rebound spring from the damper tube and it has one, from the damper valve, if it has one. Then without expanding or stretching the retaining clip to avoid it becoming bent or distorted, remove it from the fork tube. THEN, using an appropriate pick tool, remove the retaining clip from between the fork slider and the fork tube and remove the fork tube from the fork slider. Use the fork tube as a slide hammerwith a moderate amount of force until the fork tube separates from the fork slider. THEN slide the fork oil seal, the slider spacer and the slider bushing off of the end of the fork tube and throw away the fork oil seal and the slider bushing. THEN gently pry at the split line to expand the fork leg bushing, and remove it from the groove at the end of the fork tube and throw away the fork leg bushing. THEN remove the lower stop fromthe fork slider.

THEN thoroughly clean and inspect all of the parts. And replace all parts that are bent, broken or otherwise obviously damaged. Inspect the fork cap bolt quad ring seal and the fork tube plug O-ring for cuts, tears or other signs of deterioration and replace whatever is necessary and/or prudent. THEN replace the retaining clip if bent or distorted and check the slider and fork leg bushings for scratches or excessive wear and always replace bushings in a set if either bushing is damaged or worn THEN also check the fork tube and the slider for scoring, scratches and excessive or abnormal wear and replace all parts as necessary and/or prudent. THEN set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure the runout using a dial indicator gauge and replace the fork if runout exceeds 0.008 in. (0.2 mm). THEN inspect the upper fork spring and the rebound spring for damage or distortion and replace the upper fork spring if the free length is less than 18.4 in. (467.3 mm) and replace the rebound spring if its free length is less than 0.938 in. (23.8 mm) or otherwise whenever the upper fork spring requires replacement.
To reassemble the fork coat the fork leg bushing ID with clean fork oil and then expand the fork leg bushing at the split line only so far as required to it slip over the end and into the groove of the fork tube. THEN install a new wear ring in the groove at the top of the damper tube and install the rebound spring on the opposite end. Now, with the wear ring on the top side slide the damper tube into the fork tube, so that the tube end drops through the hole at the bottom of the fork tube. Now install the lower stop at the end of the damper tube and put the fork slider back into your fork tube holder. THEN slide the fork tube into the fork slider. NEXT coat the slider bushing ID with clean fork oil and install the slider bushing down into the fork tube and then slide the slider spacer down the fork tube until it meets the slider bushing and then get your fork oil seal installer tool and it down the fork tube and drive the slider bushing and spacer into the bore of the fork slider and then remove the tool and THEN put some masking tape over the top edge of the fork tube to avoid damaging the lip of the fork oil seal during installation and then coat the new oil seal with new fork oil and install the seal with the garter spring facing into the fork tube and slide it down to the bore of the slider and the earlier installed spacer and then remove the masking tape and with your fork seal installation tool drive the seal down into the top of the slider until you can insert the retaining ring and then again remove the seal driver tool and install the retainer ring into its slider groove. NOW slide the fork spring into the tube and remove the fork assembly from your fork tube holder and with a shop towel or rag on the floor turn the assembly upside down and press the spring against the shop towel or rag and install a new 6mm screw with a new copper crush washer through hole at bottom of fork slider and start to screw it into the end of the damper tube. Continue to compress the spring into the assembly to stop the damper tube from turning and tighten the 6mm screw to 132-216 in-lbs (14.9-24.4 Nm). After this remove the fork spring from the fork tube and again clamp the fork slider (NOT THE FORK TUBE) into your fork holder tool with the fork tube on the top side and if it was previously removed install the drain plug at the bottom of the fork slider and tighten it to 72-96 in-lbs (8-11 Nm).

THEN refill with the correct amount of fork oil. It is very important for the correct and safe operation of the bike that the CORRECT amount of oil be installed. FOLLOW the correct procedures for doing this.

Aug 10, 2014 | Harley Davidson FLHTCUI Electra Glide...

1 Answer

About alternator replacement for 2001 vw beetle gls...I've removed the upper and lower bolts... What am I missing? Alternator still won't budge. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thanks.


all the bolts removed then all thats holding it is the adjustable tube in on the lower fitting ,put a bar in and try moving it then it will move as on the lower fitting with the long bolt is a tube in the alternator housing bracket and this is pulled or pushed out to make contact with the support bracket .Check you havent got three bolts holding it as some vehicles have two bolts on the bottom bracket or one long one

Apr 15, 2012 | 2003 Volkswagen New Beetle Convertible

1 Answer

Factory suspension settings yamaha xjr


Rebound - screw on top of fork leg - screw all the way in clockwise then screw out anti clockwise , 1 click for hard, 5 clicks for standard and 10 clicks for soft rebound damping.

compression - bottom of each fork leg - again screw all the way in clockwise and the 1 click anticlockwise for hard, 6 clicks for standard and 13 clicks for soft compression


hope this helps

John

Oct 15, 2011 | Motorcycles

1 Answer

How do you remove the forks on a 2001 fxd superglide






Hopefully you will glean all you need to know from this but if you want or need more information or more FXD specific information PLEASE H

Hopefully the information below will be okay BUT if you need any more or any more specific information please post a comment and describe what you want/need.

REPLACING FORK OIL Replace front fork oil at every 20,000 mile (32,000 km) service interval and/or prior to storage.


ALL BUT FXDX & FXDXT models


Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, on FXDL models, remove the center plug from each fork cap, on all other models, remove the fork tube caps, remove the drain screws from the bottom of each fork and drain the fork oil, replace the drain screws and washers and tighten the screws

to 13-17 in-lbs (1.5-2.0 Nm) THEN see Table 1-6. and fill the fork with Harley-Davidson TYPE E FORK OIL (Part No. HD-99884-80) as set out in the Table. THEN if apart assemble the forks as follows:


a. FXD, FXDXT, FXDWG models: install both fork tube caps and tighten them to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm).

b. FXDL models: install center plugs and tighten until secure.


Fork oil amounts can be measured two ways: use the oz./cc measurement if fork is left in frame; use the in./mm measurement if the fork is disassembled in which case the oil level is measured from the top of the fork tube with the spring removed and the fork fully compressed.


Table 1-6. Type E Fork Oil Amounts for 2001 DYNA


MODEL OZ CC IN. MM

FXDXT 11.5 341 6.10 154.9

FXDWG 12.0 356 7.28 182.9

FXD 10.6 314 6.69 169.9


PART NO. SPECIALTY TOOL

HD-41177 Fork tube holder

HD-41549A Fork spring compression tool

HD-41551 Spring plate tool

HD-36583 Fork seal installer

HD-59000A Pro-level oil gauge



FRONT FORKS: FXDX & FXDXT 2.20

REMOVAL

Raise and support the motorcycle so the front end is off the floor and the forks are fully extended, remove both front brake calipers and the front wheel, remove the front fender, remove the front fairing, remove the headlamp bracket and attach the headlamp to the frame using a rubber bungee strap, loosen the upper and lower triple clamp pinch bolts and pull the fork sides from the brackets.


DISASSEMBLY

Remove the stopper ring, remove the spring preload adjuster but DO NOT unthread the rebound adjuster from the damper rod because incorrect assembly could result in reduced adjustment range. THEN unthread the fork cap from the fork tube and allow the fork leg to drop, exposing the spring, THEN get a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL (Part No. HD-41549A) on the spring collar, turn the screws in to engage the holes in collar, compress the spring until the SPRING PLATE TOOL (Part No. HD-

41551) can be positioned between the spacer and the spring collar, THEN hold the fork bolt and compression adjuster, remove the fork bolt from the compression adjuster, remove the spring adjuster plate from the fork bolt, remove spacer, spring collar and spring, pour out the fork oil by pumping the fork leg and rod 8-10 times or until rod the moves freely. THEN position fork slider in vise using a FORK TUBE HOLDER such as (Part No. HD-41177) to avoid damage. THEN remove the socket head bolt, remove the damper from the fork tube, remove the cover from the slider, remove seal and stopper ring, pull the fork tube out of the slider, remove the oil seal, spacer and guide bushing from the fork tube.


CLEANING AND INSPECTION

Measure the fork spring free length and replace the spring if it is shorter than 17.00 in. (431.8 mm), check the fork tube and the slider for score marks, scratches or abnormal wear, check the slide and guide bushings for excessive wear or scratches, set the fork tube on V-blocks and measure runout which should not exceed 0.008 in. (0.2 mm).


ASSEMBLY

Coat the oil seal with TYPE E FORK OIL, before installing the slide bushing and guide bushing, lubricate them with fork oil, THEN install the guide bushing and the spacer seal noting that the guide bushing opening must be oriented to the side and NOT to the front or rear, THEN slip the slider into the fork tube, place the slide bushing over the fork tube until it rests on the slider, drive the guide bushing with the spacer seal into the slider, lubricate a new oil seal with TYPE E FORK Oil, drive the oil seal into the slider using FORK SEAL INSTALLER (Part No. HD-36583). install the stopper ring and dust seal, (if the rebound adjuster was removed from the damper rod bottom the lock nut on the threaded portion of damper rod, holding a thumb on the detent spring and ball, back out (turn counterclockwise) the rebound adjuster to the last "click." and then turn down (clockwise) 17 "clicks", thread the rebound adjuster onto the damper rod until the adjuster stops at maximum thread engagement (but do not force it), thread the locknut onto the damper rod up until it contacts the base of the rebound adjuster and tighten it in place), THEN holding the slider in a vise while being careful not to damage it. install the damper tube into the fork tube and tighten the socket screw and washer to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN pour half the TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube, slowly pump the damper rod 10 or more times, position the damper rod in the fully bottomed position and pour the remaining amount of TYPE E FORK OIL into the fork tube. THEN using a PRO-LEVEL OIL GAUGE (Part No. HD-59000A) or similar adjust the oil level to 5.04 in. (128 mm). THEN carefully clean and install the spring, the spring collar, and the spacers with the sharp edge created when they were stamped out when manufactured, facing the collar. THEN using a FORK SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL such as (Part No. HD-41549A) push spring collar down and place a SPRING PLATE such as (Part No. HD-41551) between the spacer and the spring collar, install the fork cap and tighten it against the rebound adjuster to 22-29 ft-lbs (29.8-39.3 Nm). THEN tighten the fork cap onto the fork tube to 11-22 ft-lbs (14.9-29.8 Nm), install the spring adjuster plate, replace the O-rings on the spring preload adjuster and lubricate them with fork oil. THEN install the spring preload adjuster and the stopper ring and carefully drive the slider cover into the slider.


INSTALLATION

Insert both fork side assemblies up through the fork stem and bracket and upper bracket and tighten the fork stem bracket pinch bolt(s) to 30-35 ft-lbs (40.7-47.5 Nm). Then re-install the headlamp bracket, install the front fender, install the front wheel and the brake caliper When the motorcycle is again ready for the road adjust the headlamp and road test the motorcycle.

Oct 01, 2010 | 2001 Harley Davidson FXD Dyna Super Glide

1 Answer

Factory suspension settings


Spring preload FR
To increase the spring preload and
thereby harden the suspension, turn
the adjusting bolt on each fork leg in direction
a. To decrease the spring preload
and thereby soften the
suspension, turn the adjusting bolt on
each fork leg in direction b
NOTE: _
Align the appropriate groove on the adjusting
mechanism with the top of the
front fork cap bolt.
_
CI-10E
Rebound damping force
To increase the rebound damping
force and thereby harden the rebound
damping, turn the adjusting screw on
each fork leg in direction a. To decrease
the rebound damping force and
thereby soften the rebound damping,
turn the adjusting screw on each fork
leg in direction b.
CI-02E
Compression damping force
To increase the compression damping
force and thereby harden the compression
damping, turn the adjusting screw
on each fork leg in direction a. To decrease
the compression damping force
and thereby soften the compression
damping, turn the adjusting screw on
each fork leg in direction b.
CI-02E
1. Current setting
2. Front fork cap bolt
Setting
Minimum (soft) 8
Standard 6
Maximum (hard) 1
1. Rebound damping force adjusting screw
Minimum (soft) 26 clicks in direction b*
Standard 13 clicks in direction b*
Maximum (hard) 1 click in direction b*
* With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction a
1. Compression damping force adjusting screw
Minimum (soft) 20 clicks in direction b*
Standard 13 clicks in direction b*
Maximum (hard) 1 click in direction b*
* With the adjusting screw fully turned in direction a
_
Although the total number of clicks of a
damping force adjusting mechanism
may not exactly match the above specifications
due to small differences in
production, the actual number of clicks
always represents the entire adjusting
range. To obtain a precise adjustment,
it would be advisable to check the number
of clicks of each damping force adjusting
mechanism and to modify the
specifications as necessary
CI-10E
Rebound damping force RR
To increase the rebound damping
force and thereby harden the rebound
damping, turn the adjusting screw in direction
a. To decrease the rebound
damping force and thereby soften the
rebound damping, turn the adjusting
screw in direction b.
CI-14E
Compression damping force
To increase the compression damping
force and thereby harden the compression
damping, turn the adjusting screw
in direction a. To decrease the compression
damping force and thereby
soften the compression damping, turn
the adjusting screw in direction b.
CI-14E
Setting
Minimum (soft) 1
Standard 4
Maximum (hard) 9

Whole process where need to turn toward "a" means clockwise and "b" counterclockwise. From Yamaha service manual. Hope this is good enough info to help you out. Good?

May 03, 2010 | 2002 Yamaha YZF-R1

1 Answer

Seals blown on front shocks


to remove seals you will need to remove each fork leg from the bike,i put the bike on the centre stand and jack under the motor to get the front wheel off the ground,after you remove the fork leg,remove the dust cover(if fitted),remove the circlip holding the old seal,you may have to stab through the old seal with a screwdriver to remove the seal from inside the leg(be carefull not to damage the chrome on the fork leg),clean around the surfaces and install the new seal making sure it goes back in dead square,refit the circlip,then refit the dust cover,replace fork tube back in bike and top up with new oil,most bikes take between 300 to 500cc of oil,but check with your local shop as all bikes are different,and you can adjust the amount of rebound damping by varying the amount of oil you put back in,..sounds complicated but quite an easy job..hope this helps

Jul 04, 2009 | 1995 Suzuki GS 500 E

1 Answer

Stabilzer bar needed for Delta Luv Crib #4960 and can't find one


look under the crib at the mattress rest... any sticker on it there

Feb 23, 2009 | Delta Luv Delta - Baby Products 5-in-1...

3 Answers

Yamaha yz250 suspension settings


There is too much involved to include everything, but I can describe to you what everything does.

You have compression dampening which slows the rate at which the shock or forks can compress. Then you have rebound dampening which slows the rate at which the shock or forks can extend.

The compression adjuster on the rear shock is toward the top, sticking out sideways where the resivoir mounts to the side of the shock. The rebound adjuster can be seen below the swing arm on the side of the shock.

The compression adjusters on the front forks can be seen from the top. (its the one in the center, the other is an air bleed) The rebound adjuster is in the center of the lower fork leg, and can be seen from below the fork.



The settings are measured in the number of "clicks" from seated. More clicks from seated will be softer, and less clicks from seated will be stiffer. The best thing to do is to see where you are now and adjusting from there. I like to write them down as I go. Turn the adjuster clockwise untill it stops and take note of the number of clicks. DO NOT FORCE IT! You should also check your service manual and take note of the standard setting, and also take note of the maximum number of clicks you can go from seated. You dont want to screw the adjusters out farther than the max, shock damage can result.

You might try changing to the standard settings and try adjusting from there. If the bike doesnt ride at least moderately decent at the standard settings, your shock and/or forks may need a rebuild.


Generally speaking more compression dampening in the rear will result in less bottoming but a harsher ride. Less would result in the oppisite.

More rebound dampening in the rear will result in too slow of extension and packing up which will make the bike swap in the whoops, but it will not tend to buck you or throw you into a nose dive over a jump. Less would result in the oppisite.

In the front, more compression dampening will be about the same situation as described above with the shock.

More rebound dampening in the front forks can tend to take pressure off of the front wheel in corners causing washout, but too little can make the bike want to loop out over jumps.

Nov 21, 2008 | 2003 Yamaha YZ 250

Not finding what you are looking for?
Urban Rebounder Folding Trampoline Workout System Logo

Related Topics:

62 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Urban Rebounder Sport & Outdoor - Others Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

76630 Answers

kakima

Level 3 Expert

102366 Answers

Brad Brown

Level 3 Expert

15937 Answers

Are you an Urban Rebounder Sport and Outdoor - Other Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...