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Kenmore elite dryer modal 11085861400 will not heat

No heat

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 175 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer won't Heat up - Kenmore Elite HE4 Gas Dryer

hi..A poor connection between the wire terminals and the
heater relay causes high current draw and damages the
terminals on the heater relay on the main control board.
check it out..
thank u..
kindly rate my response..

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore elite dryer no heat

You may want to check if the heating element needs replacing. Most Dryers have 2 heating elements that are found by taking the back off, some of the newer dryers have 3.

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

  • 135 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite HE4 gas dryer, no heat at all

The ignitor may be bad or the thermal fuse may be failed.

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

Testimonial: "I replaced both works great thanks for the conformation."

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Kenmore Elite dryer Model:110.C60952990 almost no heat.

Before assuming you may have a component failure, do a little routine inspection of the dryer and exhaust vent ducting.

If your dryer performance has been failing (i.e., clothes taking longer to dry), it may be because the exhaust ventilation ducting is clogged. If you can't remember the last time the exhaust vent was cleaned, or if it has never been done, this can contribute to dryer performance problems. All dryers need proper air flow in order to dry properly. If the ducting becomes clogged, the heating circuits will actually overheat, causing poor drying results and eventual failure. This usually results in the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) blowing or the Heating Element failing or BOTH. When these components fail, they must be replaced.

There is no lint screen that catches ALL the dryer lint. Some lint will always get exhausted with the moisture from your clothing. If the exhaust vent is kinked or has excessive bends that create choke points, lint will accumulate in these points. Once the lint starts to accumulate, the moisture from your clothes starts to collect in it, and more lint get trapped. This eventually creates a clog. The Rule of Thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust ventilation ducting, the BETTER.

A simple test to determine if you have a clog somewhere is to remove the dryer hose from the back of the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes as you normally would. The air escaping the back of the dryer should be forceful and warm (about 140 degrees). If the air flow is normal and the clothes dry as they should, then you need to inspect the ducting thoroughly from where it leaves the dryer to where it exits your home. It should be clear with no kinks or clogs.

If your vent line runs under a crawl space make sure it is suspended above the ground and has no sags where lint could collect.

If your exhaust vent runs to an attic, this is a poor design that gravity will always win because of the resistance the blower fan meets trying to push the exhaust up the wall. The lint will eventually collect in the ducting going up the wall and have to cleaned out from time to time.

Also, make sure you don't crush the dryer hose behind the dryer when you push it up against the wall. You should always leave plenty of space behind a dryer to prevent this from happening.

Rodents and birds are anotehr cause of dryer problems. If they have access to the outside exhaust vents, birds will build nests in them and mice love a warm place with plenty of bedding material (lint makes a nice nest). Make sure the exhaust vent is at least a foot from the ground and use a louver type cover to keep pests outside. Do not use a screen. It can resist air flow and clog.

In addition, you should be using semi-rigid metal type ducting that resists kinking, crushing and rodent infestation.

If the air flow is weak, then you need to inspect the dryer INTERIOR to see if the air blower is working properly and is not clogged. It is important to keep a dryer checked routinely. Failue to do so can lead to component failures and is a potential fire hazard.

If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Sep 18, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: kenmore elite 110 62974100, it heats up and the

kenmore dryer elite he model 110- runs but has no heat

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

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WHAT DOES IT MEAN WHEN HEAT IS SET 66 AUX IS FLASHING


If it is a heat pump if the ambient I door temp is not than 3 degree s lower than 66 it utilizes the aux heat ( heat strips) to help the unit achieve your desired temperature set point faster. Also the heat pump does need help if trying to overcome really cold temperatures. Once set point is achieved the heat pump should be able to keep the home at the set point without aux heat. But the flashing may just be to let you know that the heat strips are in use at the current time. See if when the temperature gets close to your set temp if it goes away. If not a heat pump it may always flash to just tell you heat strips are in use. Some homes mostly trailers only have heat strips but on heat pumps heat strips are there to help heat pump get to your desired temp. But when your heat pump can maintain the temp without the strips is where it saves power. Also heat pump thermostat hVe emergency heat settings. This scares alot of people but if your heat pump isn't working and you have to switch it to emergency heat until you can get it fixed,. That means that the system is only using heat strips and not utilizing heat pump at all. Power bill may be a little higher but remember, most trailer homes only have heat strips and if you do not use emergency heat in this situation your heat strips will only heat home 3 degrees below set point on thermostat to allow heat pump to bring it up the other 3 degrees. If heat pump isn't working correctly you will always be 3 degrees colder than what you set you thermostat at. Maybe too much info but it's prolly just your aux heat on helping system achieve the desired temp you set thermostat too.

Oct 24, 2016 | Heating & Cooling

Tip

Radiant Heating - Why do You Feel Warm? The Best Most Efficient Heating System


What makes you feel warm on a sunny day in the summer? Radiant heating or radiant energy is usually recognized as the oldest form of heating. It provides the best comfort and is the basis for all types of heating systems. Radiant heating is "radiant energy" being emitted from any heat source. Radiant heating is the effect you feel when you can feel the warmth of the sun or a hot stove top element from across the room.

Radiant heat is widely known as the most comfortable and efficient heating method you can find. Some of the advantages of radiant heating are: it is usually more efficient than baseboard heating and almost always more efficient than forced-air heating because no energy is lost through ducts and other transfers. This technology can be used for both heating indoor and outdoor areas. These heating systems work by supplying heat directly to the floor, to panels in the wall or to the ceiling of a house. Because the radiant heating will make you feel warmer when you are in a room, you can have the thermostat at a lower temperature and still feel warm.

The feeling of warmth is the absence of heat being pulled from your body. If the walls, floors, and ceilings around you are warm then they are not pulling heat from your body. Then you feel warm. Your body is not giving up heat to them.

Because of this radiant heating systems can provide massive energy savings of more than 10-30% in most residences, and sometimes up to 60% in shops, hangars and warehouses. Radiant heating provides even warmth with no cold spots within a room. That provides a comfortable environment that cannot be matched by any other type of heating system.

New radiant systems are currently designed to run cooler than they did in the past. The water supplied to the systems will generally range from 90 to 140 degrees. Remember radiant heat can travel in any direction and is unaffected by gravity. Radiant heating systems will allow you to be more comfortable at a lower thermostat setting. Radiant heat will warm the closest and coldest mass, which then radiate heat throughout the space evenly. Radiant heating will give you the most consistent room temperatures from floor to ceiling when you compare it to any other heating system.

on Dec 12, 2009 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a thermostat RTH9580. Why do I have emergency heat under system AND heat which sometines switch automatically to auxilliary heat?


If you have an air to air heat pump, in colder temperatures, the heat pump will not heat as well as it would in warmer outdoor temperatures making it run longer. the digital thermostats work off of a built in algorithm that kicks on the auxiliary heat when the heat pump runs to long so that it will satisfy the thermostat quicker. This can be tied to the Emergency heat @ the thermostat energizing a few heating elements, or just energizing a separate element from the emergency heat. I always recommend on an air to air heat pump to run the emergency heat when you have consistent Outdoor temperatures below 20 degrees F because you will cycle the heat less by getting hotter heat making life more comfortable, and it costs about the same as running the heat pump since @ those temperatures, it will run all the time.

Jan 09, 2015 | Honeywell 7 Day Touch Screen Programmable...

1 Answer

Why doesn't the compressor start in the heat mode


If the compressor is off and the heat coil is on - this is normal for the "E" or emergency heat setting. Check for proper connections between the Heat-pump, furnace(heat source) and the thermostat and that the thermostat is capable of controlling a heat-pump with secondary/emergency heat units. Thermostats designed for this have 4 settings: Cool / off / heat / E(emergency heat). in the "heat" setting, both the Heat-pump and Aux heat work together to maintain temperature. In the "E" setting, only the Aux heat source is used. The "E" setting should only be used in extreme cold - when the Heat-pump can no longer produce heat.

Sep 10, 2014 | LG LP153HD3A - 14,300 BTU, R410A, 9.4 EER,...

3 Answers

Why doesn't the compressor start in the heat mode


Is it a heat pump? Is it a heat pump stat? Is ambient temp high enough to allow heat pump to run?

Sep 11, 2014 | LG LP153HD3A - 14,300 BTU, R410A, 9.4 EER,...

1 Answer

We have a new a/c and the system has heat strips. For a/c. we have had the thermostat set on AC at 72degrees. Now that it is getting colder and may need some heat in the house, do we switch the...


If your thermostat has an emergency heat setting this means you have a heat pump system.
Yes you need to set the thermostat to heat for heating the house.
The emergency heat setting should never be used unless your outside unit is not functioning.
The emergency heat setting overides the heat pump (the outside unit will not be energized).
The emergency heat setting will run the auxillary heat (heat strips) only.
When the thermostat is set in the heat position the heat pump will run to heat your house.
If the heat pump can't keep up (extreme cold) then then the auxillary heat will kick in to augment the heat pump until it satisfies the thermostat settings. If your room temperature gets 2 degrees below your thermostat setpoint, your auxillary heat will kick on. Example, say you are going to be gone a couple of days and you turn your heat down to 60 degrees. When you return and it is 60 degrees in your house, you turn the thermostat up to 70 degrees. Since you are turning the temperature up 2 degrees or more (10 degrees in this case) from the 60 degree room temperature then the heat pump will come on and the auxillary heat strips. The unit will continue heating like this until the temperature in the house gets to 69 degrees and the heat strips will turn off and the heat pump will continue to run until the 70 degree setpoint is reached.
Hope this helps.
SeagullAC

Sep 15, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

EM HEAT.... does it stand for ECONOMY HEAT or EMERGENCY HEAT? They both conflict. Someone's misinformed.


It stands for Emergency Heat. (Back up heat) . Normally you will find it on heat pumps. It's used manually when the compressor goes out on a heat pump. It's used automatically by the unit when it's so cold outside the heat pump can't keep up. This happens when there is not enough heat in the air to draw heat from. This happens at around 23 degrees. I hope this explains what emergency heat is and what it's used for.

Oct 16, 2009 | Ruud Central System Air Conditioner

4 Answers

Abbreviation definitions.


Economy Mode = EM
Auxelary Mode = AUX
in em mode heat pump does most of the work in aux either an electric heating element is used or gas depending on if it is gas or all electric

Oct 16, 2009 | Ruud Central System Air Conditioner

5 Answers

What's the difference between EM HEAT and AUX HEAT?


Sorry, neither of these answers are completely correct.
You have a heat pump (or the wrong thermostat). Let's assume you have a heat pump.

In air conditioning mode, it works like every air conditioner you have ever had, but...

In heat mode, it reverses its operation. Have you ever felt the air coming out of the outdoor unit of your A/C unit? It's hot, isn't it. And the air coming out of the indoor unit (out of the registers) is cold. Now for a heat pump to produce heat it simply runs the air conditioner in reverse and the heat comes out in the house and the cold is released outside. Neat, huh!

Here's the problem with heat pumps...when it is really cold outside the heat pump can't produce enough heat to heat your home. So it has an additional heat source called "Auxiliary Heat". This heat comes on automatically when the house doesn't get warm enough. The source of this heat is based on the region of the country you are in. North/Northeast generally have oil heat, other regions have gas, and still others have to use electricity to heat. In Texas, we usually use electricity as the supplementary heat on heat pumps. VERY EXPENSIVE!

Now the "Emergency Heat"...this is exactly as stated in Solution #2. This is manually turned on by YOU at the thermostat when your heat pump fails. This turns on the auxilliary heaters and turns off the heat pump (remember, the reverse air conditioner). Again, this can be quite expensive to run if your heat source uses electricity! Gas and oil may be cheaper. The emergency heat is only designed (normally) to keep the house livable (not comfortable) until the Heating Tech can get out to you and fix your heat pump.

Something else you should know. It is normal for a heat pump's outdoor coil to frost up during heating mode. It will detect this and go into DEFROST mode and melt the frost off the coil. While it is doing this, it will turn on the auxilliary heater to keep the air blowing in the house at a reasonable "warm" temperature, but it will not be as hot as normal. In fact, heat pumps produce a lower temperature heat than traditional heaters. So the air may feel cooler during heating than you are use to anyway. This is normal and is not a sign of a problem.

So what do you do: Set your thermostat to the temperature you want and set the controls for HEAT/COOL and FAN-AUTO/ON and leave the EMERG HEAT off unless your heat pump breaks.

As always, keep your filters clean and your outdoor unit's coils clean and free of debris.

Hope this explains your question for you!

Oct 16, 2009 | Ruud Central System Air Conditioner

2 Answers

Hi- Can not tell if my unites are straight cool / heat or a heat pump.


if you look inside the condenser unit outside,see if you see the big reversing valve,if not it is a straight cool,heat, the heat strip ins in the air handler so you would have to take the side panel off and look for the heat stripe,my the way heat pumps also have a aux.heat stripe just in case it does not get cold enough outside,hope this helps you-mike

Oct 25, 2008 | Carrier 38CKC042 Air Conditioner

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