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Dryer wont heat

Power is good and air flow is good. The heating element shows continuity, but one of the two sensors on the heating element housing checks open with ohm meter. Also, one of the two sensors on the blower housing checks open. The door switch is loose and seems defective but I can't seem to find a way to access it for test and/or replacement. Finally, a local appliance parts store said that the fact that the sensor on the heating element housing that checked open didn't necessarily mean it was bad; however, a replacement for it alone was $45. I'll try bypassing each individually by taping leads together tomorrow! Your help on accessing the door switch and comments on the above tests will be greatly appreciated!

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  • Robert May Jan 22, 2013

    The model number is Kenmore Elite 110 82952100

  • Robert May Jan 22, 2013

    Closer inspection shows model to be 110.62952100.

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Try doing cotunity on door switch

Posted on Jan 22, 2013

  • Robert May Jan 22, 2013

    Problem was not switch (in door) --- problem is with blade (on dryer) that activates switch when door is closed.

  • Robert May Jan 24, 2013

    This comment really wasn't very helpful in that part of the question was about how to locate the switch. Since, learned location of switch (at BOTTOM of door, and it was okay). I bought a door latch kit for less that $5 which included a new "striker" which was the problem with the latch. Also, resolved the no heat problem with a new Thermal Cutoff kit for less than $25.

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1 Answer

Dryer air is not getting hot. All other functions still work.


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back

Jul 28, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer is running, but heat will not turn on


There are several things that can prevent a dryer from not heating.. Unplug Power Before checking.
Electric Models
1- Power- Your dryer runs on 220volts. 110 runs the entire dryer and 110 runs just the element. Your breaker may have half tripped. Check to see if you are getting the correct amount of power by using a ohm meter. Also check the power cord for burn marks on the plugin and the cord itself.
2- The thermal fuse can prevent this from heating. The thermal fuse is a sensor on the blower housing the measures the temperature of the air. There is a cycling thermistat near the thermal fuse. If the dryer temp gets over 190-220 degrees the thermal fuse will blow to cut power to the element to prevent fire. You can test this by using a continuity tester.
3- High limit and/or thermal cutoff. These are both sensors on the heating element housing. Thermal cutoff is at the top and the high limit is near the bottom above the heating element connectors. Test these with a continuity tester.
4- Heating element- Just below the high limit on the heater housing. Test for continuity.
5- Motor- The motor has to reach a certain rpm to activate a sinfrigrial switch inside the motor. If the rpm is not reached it will not allow current to go to the element.
6- Timer- Make sure you are trying this on timed dry. Sometimes people use air fluff and forget to change it back. The timer could also not be sending current to the heater.

Gas models
1- Electric ignitor- Inside the flame tunnel inside of dryer near where gas line hooks up. Usually if it glows than it is still good but check to see if it is sending and amp signal to the heat coils.
2- Heater coils are two valves that open up when the ignitor send signal saying the ignitor can ignite the gas. Heat coils will not open to send gas if it does not receive a signal from the ignotor. They look like two round disk with two wires running from ignitor.
3- Flame sensor- Change if you change the heater coils. The flame sensor could not be detecting the flame inside so it shuts down the ignitor.
4- Motor- See above
5- Timer See above

If you have any further questions or need further assistance please feel free to comment me back.

Jul 27, 2011 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Drum turns, air blows but element does not heat up. Circuit breaker panel shows one untripped double breaker for dryer. With dryer running can see 120v coming from control and passing thru sensors (1)...


The element will probably show near-zero resistance and be good. You need 220 volts from the breaker pair--check with an AC voltmeter--and at the two slanted blades in the power socket. If only one breaker in the pair is good, it can show your symptoms. Hope this helps!

Sep 25, 2010 | Whirlpool LER5636P Electric Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer has no heat


Check the entire exhaust venting sytsem. If lint is inside of the tubing it will cause a restriction shutting the burner off at all times. If the tubing is clear the moister sensor is at fault and needs to be replaced

May 09, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

LG DLG2532 dryer not heating up, lint trap clean, good air flow out exhasut vent, all controls seam to be working i.e. lights on buttons and chimes good, seams like its not getting gas but valve is turned...


Hi, Make sure you check these to fix the problem.
  • Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected.

  • Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable.

  • A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Apr 16, 2010 | LG DLE2532W Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer wont heat blows cold air


There's no heat If your dryer doesn't heat, check these: Power from the house Heating element Thermal fuse Wiring Power from the house Check to see whether there's power getting to the dryer. Is it plugged in? Check for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers--your dryer uses two fuses or circuit breakers. The dryer could tumble but not heat if only one of the two fuses is blown. If you have circuit breakers, one of the two circuit breakers can trip, even if the two for the dryer are connected. Heating element Often a dryer heating element burns out, but doesn't trip the circuit breaker or blow a fuse. The heating element is simply a long coil of special wire. You can check it for continuity with an ohm meter. No continuity means the element is bad and you need to replace it--electric heating elements aren't repairable. Thermal fuse On many dryers, there's a thermal fuse mounted to the exhaust duct inside the back cover panel. The fuse--which is about an inch long--is usually embedded in black resin and mounted in a white plastic housing. If the fuse has blown, you need to replace it. (You can't re-set it.) Wiring A common problem is for the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, to burn and break its connection. Because the dryer can still tumble with partial power, the connection may be only partially defective. You may need to replace both the power cord to the dryer and the terminal block inside the dryer that the wire is attached to.

Jan 02, 2010 | Roper Dryers

2 Answers

Not getting hot


Check the following to address this issue.




1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Jul 13, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Kenmore dryer 110-86094110 wont heat. Heating


Hi, Check all the thernostats and the thermal fuse for continuity. They should all show a closed circuit. If any of them are open, it will need replaced. It is usuallly the thermostat on the top side of the element housing.
I hope this helps you. If I can assist you further, please let me know.

Vic

Jun 28, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

No heat


Check the following---


1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for tripped circuit breakers or blown fuses. An electric dryer uses two circuit breakers or fuses, and if only one of two is tripped or blown, the dryer might still run but not heat. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Heating element
A burned out heating element will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Replace the element if found defective.

3. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

May 29, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

Whirlpool dryer


First make sure you have power to the unit through the plug. If power is present, then you most likely have an open Thermal Safety Fuse. The Thermal is a Safety feature that shuts off the power to the Heat Element in the event the Blower is not blowing or the Lint Vent becomes clogged not allowing air to flow over the Heat Element. NO air flow, Heat Element over heats, Thermal Safety Fuse opens, power shuts off. If the Thermal Safety Fuse is open find out why. Was the blower not working? Was the Lint Filter clogged? ( Lint Filter should be cleaned after each use to assure continued air flow.) Was Lint Vent Clogged? This is the Vent Hose that goes from the Dryer to the outside of your house. It should be checked for free air movement. The next thing-- Could be a defective Timer or Control Module.
Find where you lost power and WHY!!

Jan 27, 2008 | Dryers

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