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Log splitter 20 ton starts but wont stay running

Will start but wont stay running,

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 11 Answers

SOURCE: starts wont stay running

without seeing it here is my best answere, do you have the ability to pull codes if the cam and crank sensors are functioning properly ( no codes for them) i would then check the fuel pump fuse and relay . do you have fuel getting to the fuel rail . if u have a guage to check pressure at the fuel rail it should be above 30lbs , if you have no pressure and your fuses and relays are good then you have a pump problem provided you have not been in an accident , i believe that vehicle has a safety shutoff that might be located in the trunk .

Posted on Dec 09, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Swisher 22-Ton 7 HP Log Splitter #LS722

For all swisher log splitter problems go to swisherinc.com.

Posted on Mar 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: engine will not start on a briggs and stratton log

New carb, new coil, new plug, sometimes it will crank and run good, sometimes it just sputters, and sometimes it will not seem to be firing at all. Before I changed the components listed it would just be intermittent in starting.

Posted on Dec 08, 2009

chrisbradfor
  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: log splitter how to flush hydraulic system

removing hydraulic oil from the system

  • fully extend the cylinder. and shutdown.
  • remove the one end of the hose that is from the rod end of the clylinder.
  • two ways you can go here. either: detach the one end of the hose that is attached to directional control valve and leads to the cap end of the cylinder and place the end in a pale then retract the cylinder by physically forcing the rod back in and all the oil will drain out of the cap end into the pale and the rod end will fill with air.
  • or u could hold the directional valve in the position to let the oil flow back to tank while physically forcing the rod back in. the oil in the cap end will drain to tank and rod end will fill with air.
  • drain the tank of oil.
  • if you wanted to be extra thurough remove the remaining lines and drain the oil out of them.
  • reattach all lines.
  • replace oil filters/strainers. should be one on the return line going to tank. and one on the suction line before the pump. But there may not be a second filter.
  • fill tank with new oil.
  • extend the cylinder using the pump. allowing the air to bleed off the rod side. may chatter at bit while extending. if excessive chatter remove line end to allow the air in the rod side to bleed to atmosphere and continue till fully extended.
  • reattach line. probably a good idea to run a couple cycles.
  • and repeat the entire process for a thurogh flushing.
  • ! note: dont be dissconnecting lines with pressure in them or while the system is running.
  • ! note: be sure to have enough oil in the tank so the pump is not sucking air. this will eventually cause unrepairable damage to pump if sucking air for too long.
  • i just wrote this off the top of my head and ive only worked on industrial hyraulic systems and never on a log splitter before so just keep that in mind. hope it helps

Posted on Dec 14, 2009

  • 1015 Answers

SOURCE: i have a 4052 mcCulloch

Not having a mcCULLOCH manual I dont know what they reccomend,but on mine I just use HI grade industrial/commercial hydraulic fluid. I have been using this for 15 years and have had no trouble. I change oil and filter every year. Thank you.

Posted on Nov 06, 2010

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