Question about LG 42LB5D 42 in. LCD Television
I have a LG42LB5D that will not power on. The stand by light doesnt even come on when it is plugged in. I have removed the power board and dont see any visibly apparent defects or blown components. I have a multimeter and am sure that power is getting to the board. can someone advise me on how to further test this board to see if i need to replace it? It would be great if its just one of the capacitors or something, but i cant seem to locate a bad one. please help.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Stand Removal
I haven't looked at the 47LG6000 yet, but I'll think that there are 4 screws on the back that you have to unscrew to release the socket. It may be taht there's also a clip that you have to push.
Posted on Oct 23, 2008
Usually you can identify defective capacitor when you see the the top cover on it pop up, sometimes short circuit across its terminal can be checked by an ohm meter. Hope it helps
Posted on Mar 11, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks! That helps alot."
Check to see if you get Va and Vs voltages from the power supply. There should be some wires running to the y-sus. A couple of those wires will be labeled va and vs. Are they present? There will be a sticker stuck to the panel somewhere telling you what they should be.
Posted on Mar 26, 2010
replacing the 10V caps with 25V caps is perfectly fine. In fact, if it was manufactured like that, those caps may not have blown.
Replacing a 680uF with a 1000uF could be problematic depending on it's function.
680uF is pretty specific when 500uF and 1000uF are much more common and therefore cheaper - one would think that the engineers would have tried using those in the design rather than a 680uF - makes me think the value of the cap is important to the frequency of the circuit it's in.
Other concerns might be whether he got any of them in backwards or not.
That's a rookie mistake, but still an easy enough one to make (for a rookie).
Also, with that many swollen caps, I wonder if there were any that leaked out the bottom before swelling at the top (IE - if some caps were missed in the replacement procedure)
Also, with that large a number of caps gone, other components may have been compromised or blown.
I'd be testing the transistors around those caps (most likely punched through rather than open), looking for fusible links (surface mount fuses, 0 OHM resistors) that may have opened up etc.
The initial attack on the problem was basically correct, and in many cases probably would have fixed it (if say the 680uF cap was functioning as a ripple filter).
But when that didn't fix it, a deeper analysis should have been done to complete the repair (including locating a 680uF cap).
Posted on Feb 27, 2011
Testimonial: "Excellent and through description of recommendations."
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