Question about Bosch Evolution 800 SHE68M05UC Stainless Steel Dishwasher
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
button is pressed.
To start testing, press both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO buttons a second time. When testing has ended,
Cycle Countdown display will show a fault using codes below. If more than one fault occurs, code numbers will be added
together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), display will show "0", water won't heat (to 150ºF) and
water won’t stop circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "8" immediately and
testing will end shortly after water has started circulating
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
THE WATER GOING INTO MACHINE IS NOT HOT. LET WATER RUN UNIT IT IS HOT THEN START THE MACHINE. HEATER ONLY FUNCTION IS TO MAINTAIN THE HEAT , IT DOES NOT GO FROM COLD TO EXTRA HOT
Posted on Feb 28, 2010
I just fixed this fault on my SHE68m05uc. The fault lets the machine run through any cycle and every ting else was working properly. In line between the fill valve and fill float assembly there is an electro magnetic impeller which is "open" if there is no water flow. the signal goes to the timer control board on the lower right side of the machine. If you Pull the impeller, take an OHM reading across the sensor that is mounted to the side of the impeller and blow into one end. If the measurement changes as it rotates, its good. if its shorted "0 Ohms" its broke. The part was about 17$
Posted on Aug 08, 2010
SOURCE: My Bosch dishwasher runs long.
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description I'd say the issue actually with the control...unfortunately.
**B/S/H/ also issued a recall on certain models between 1999 - 2006 depending on the model & serial number, you can check with yours, though many not included here still suffers from the same problem...you'll need the serial number too. Here`s the link if you want to see for yourself **
As I've alluded to the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ).
If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself...it really isn't very complicated.
It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.
The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,
**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it.**
This ones new, but it's where to look...
...hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed...or takes a long time as I mentioned and eventually display's "1" on units with a display and usually very poor cleaning and obviously no "extra" heat ( aside from the water inlet temp. ) as a result.
You can also run the unit through a regular or econo cycle ...any cycle with the exception of rinse & hold, and with the door panel removed place an ammeter on the gray/black wire it should draw 11 amps during the wash cycle...after it fills and the flow switch indicates it has adequate water to engage the heater.
**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last, although Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on there behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**
**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**
If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.
Hope this answer`s your question, let me know if I can assist you further.
Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness.
Posted on Jan 03, 2011
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