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F1 - E0 EEPROM communication error F1 - E1 EEPROM checksum error F1 - E2 UL A/D error F1 - E4 Model ID error F1 - E5 Calibration shifted F1 - E6 Latch signal mismatch error F1 - E9 Stack overflow F1 - E3 Wiring harness cavity size does not match stored value F2 - E0 Shorted touch pad F2 - E1 Keypad cable connection error F2 - E5 Cancel key drive line open F2 - E6 Cancel key drive line open F3 - E0 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (upper oven on double oven models) F3 - E1 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (upper oven on double oven models) F3 - E2 Oven temperature is too high (Cook mode) F3 - E3 Oven temperature is too high (Clean mode) F3 - E4 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) opened (lower oven on double oven models) F3 - E5 Oven temperature sensor (RTD) shorted (lower oven on double oven models) F3 - E6 Drawer sensor open F3 - E7 Warming drawer sensor shorted F4 - E1 Meat probe malfunction - shorted F5 - E0 Door Switch F5 - E1 Self clean latch will not lock F5 - E2 Latch during CLEAN error F5 - E5 Self clean temperature not reached within 45 minutes. F5 - E6 Door is open, but latch is locked F5 - E7 Self clean latch will not unlock F6 - E0 Return line not connected F7 - E1 Common switch wire defective
Two digit codes:
F0 ERC Board failure F1 ERC Board failure F2 Oven temperature is too high F3 Oven temperature sensor open F4 Oven temperature sensor shorted F5 ERC Board failure F7 Function key stuck on ERC F8 ERC Board failure F9 Oven door lock failure
Microwave and Microwave combo error codes:
F1 - E3 or F1 - E4 Electronic control malfunction
F2 - E0 or F2 - E1 Keypad connection error
F2 - E3 Keypad held down too long, or keypad is shorted.
If you get an error code, try first resetting the code: 1. Disconnect power for about two minutes. 2. Connect back power. 3. If code re-appears, test and eventually replace faulty part.
Possibly a bad oven temp sensor. If the uinit doesnt read a temperature it will shut down to prevent a fire or over heating. The temp sensor is a thermister A temperature variable resistor that changes value as the temp changes. so If the main board doesnt get a response within a vertain resistance range it shuts things down. Sometimes since those parts are in the actual cooking area and subject to the heat and steam from cooking they can rust and break, or just get old and break. Or slam the door and break, you get the idea!!
It does not work that way. The microwave OVEN generates (electromagnetic) microwaves that are absorbed by the molecules of the food in the oven, the container and the air.
The absorption rate depends on the molecular composition. After enough microwave energy is absorbed the overall temperature increases and the food is warmed, heated or cooked. If your mixture is inhomogeneous some parts absorb more energy while other absorb less and you can have hot spots.
The power level by itself won't give you an indication of the temperature because you need to know the time that the power has been applied. In simple terms Energy =time*power. The temperature reached is somewhat proportional to the energy, that makes it dependent on the time and the power.
I had a similar problem with a different make of microwave oven with grill and, on taking the cover off, found that a normally closed thermostatic switch (little round thing, with tab connectors - one of three, in my m'wave) had burnt out. I suspect that this switch had a manufacturing fault which took some time to show up. On a certain website with a 'buy it now' option I was able to buy a pack of three of these parts for very little money, from China. The temperature rating of these switches is marked on the casing.
I would almost guarantee the thermocouple is bad.It is a small rod whose wires come out from the back wall into the oven and is mounted inside the oven,usually near the top.This is a common fail component in ovens due to the temperatures it endures over time,especially with self-cleaning because they usually go over the maximum temperature cooking allowed during cleaning.If you want to test it yourself,you or someone can swap out the 2 thermocouples as they should be identical..Make sure the circuit braker is pulled first.Behind the oven there is probably a cover which is fairly easy to access.If it is possible to switch the 2 connectors without removing the thermocouples,it would obviously be much quicker.If you switch them and turn both ovens on,the problem should switch ovens also.If you switch the thermocouples and the problem DOES NOT switch ovens,the bottom doesn't work but top still does,the circuit board is bad.Wait about a half hour before touching the thermocouple after heatup and leave the door open.Good luck,Greg
Also the fact it is a convection oven could mean the oven temperature sensor is not picking up the oven temp. it is not telling the machine it is there by the board seeing its resistance, the unit will shut off as a safety feature. The oven sees temperature by reading the value of a temperature dependent resistor. As the temperature changes so does the value of the component ( oven temp sensor) that way the unit determines the temperature inside the unit. Sometimes those sensors will break since they are in the area with the heat and moisture, they get old and break.
Normally when u cook food in microwave the fod is cooked by microwaves, which means the heat is generated with in food. The temperature inside is never too hot and all the heat produced is absorbed with in the food.
On the other hand when the grill is switched on, a separate heatting element gets switched on. You can see this red hot element on the top side of inside of microwave. the heat from this element gets transferred to food through air circulation. But partof heat also gets transferred to the walls of microwave oven. This is the reason the wall feel hot during use of grill.
As i see ther is no problem with the microwave itself. Jut kep delicate thngs a bit away from the microwave.