Question about GE WCVH4800KWW Laundry : Front Load Washers

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Dear BH Countryman, I have cleaned my trap, there wasn't a lot in it at all. I started another load and it went nicely through the cycle until it got about half way through, then the door lock w

Thank you so much for assisting me with this issue!

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  • GE Master
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Check the door lock, reset this with tips from this link: Door Lock

Posted on Jan 22, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1294 Answers

SOURCE: Front load Washer

You have to clean-out your inlet hoses; the hose/s external of machine, the screens. You may not be getting sufficient water.

Check your exit hose spigot, it may be clogged. This is if your filter is all clean(ref manual). There should be air for passage in the standpipe behind. Your hose should not fit airtight into the standpipe and neither too deep into it. Snaking out your standpipe would be good too.

Rate me pl.....if helped. Click on 'thanks for trying' if not helped, your prob will be back for someone else to solve.

Posted on May 31, 2008

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: GE Energy Star WCVH6260F Front Load Washer: door locking problem

http://www.instructables.com/id/GE-Adora-Lint-Filter-Cleanout/?download=pdf

Had the same problem, this fixed it!

Posted on Oct 31, 2008

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Put the temp select switch on HOT, start machine. If water comes out check the flow amount. If no water flow, replace inlet water valve. If there is water flow switch to COLD, start machine. If water comes out check the flow amount should be approximately equal or slightly more than flow on HOT. If no water flow, replace inlet water valve. Move selector to WARM, start machine. Now there should be twice the flow of water than there was with HOT and COLD temps. I suspect it is the HOT side of inlet water valve that has failed because machines usually rinse with COLD water.

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Sorry B.H. Countryman, trying respond I pressed inappropriate by mistake. First time using this app. Here is the model number. Thanks again




Your
machine is newer than my machines. However only the agitator,
coupling and basket look much different. The transmission has a
different shape but otherwise looks the same with the exception of a
pair of wires.



Unplug
the machine.



Open
the loading door and see if the agitator spins. If agitator turns
freely in both directions and tub sits motionless either your
agitator or the coupling that holds it to the transmission is shot.
Usually the coupling. If it spins you found the problem. But if it
doesn\'t spin...


The
panel on the front of your machine is easy to remove. From either
edge slide a putty knife inserted about 3/4" along the top edge of
the panel. About 4" from the edge you will come into contact with a
clip. Remove the putty knife and insert where the clip is. Push in a
little and you should feel a springy resistance. Push in harder and
you will lift the clip past a cut-out notch at the top of the panel.
If you push till the blade comes to a stop you should be able to put
your fingers on the top corner of the panel and give it a slight tug
to free it. Don\'t pull too hard just enough to clear the clip. Then
repeat procedure on other corner. Once it pops open set it aside but
prop it up with something. When they fall over they sound like a gun
going off the way they slap the floor. Do your heart a favor.


You\'ll
need a flashlight. See any water? There should be none. There is a
floor in your machine, not all machines have those. See how the tub
is suspended there? That\'s kind of cool. Everything looks pretty easy
to get to. Not that complicated really. There is a motor right out
front bolted to a platform that is bolted to the tub. On the floor to
the right of the motor is the drain pump.



For
now let\'s look at the drive belt. If you shine your light toward the
middle of the machine under the tub behind the motor you should see
the transmission bolted to the platform. My transmissions don\'t have
two wires coming from them, yours does. I can\'t tell you where those
wires go or even what they are for but make sure the connector is
well seated wherever it goes. If it\'s not plugged in or seated
properly you may have discovered your problem. You have to get down
low to see the belt. It is under that platform and it goes from a
pulley on the motor to a pulley on the transmission. If you see oil
on it you will probably see a line of oil that has been slinging
around in there that goes all the way around the inside walls of your
machines outer shell. It came from and means you need a new
transmission. If it\'s not oily the drive belt should be dry and not
cracked. It should be pretty tight but not tight-rope tight. If it\'s
bad it will need to be replaced. But I don\'t think it is your
problem. It may look a little rough around the edges with a few
cracks in it, but hopefully it\'s dry and still fairly snug. Again,
if it\'s in sad shape put one on the list, it\'ll need replaced, but
I\'ve seen some belts in bad shape that continued to function. We\'d
have to see it in action to tell for sure. The only way to do that is
to plug the machine back in and start it up.


But
first, let\'s agree that when the machine is operating we won\'t go
proddin\' and pokin\' at it. Nor will we reach inside the cabinet for
any reason with our hands or head. There will be moving parts and HOT
Electricity, so let\'s be extra careful and extra aware. Okay?



Okay.
So this is another one of the places where things get a little
different for us. My machines are commercial machines with coin
mechanisms and money boxes that sit in a housing that hides the timer
and lid switch as well. Your timer is housed behind the backsplash of
the control panel and almost certainly more complicated than my
timer. But it should function basically the same. Yours will have a
knob with marks on it that indicate cycles and their lengths, mine
doesn\'t. So just set everything to Normal Wash (or whatever it says)
and pull the control knob out (or whatever you do to start the
thing.)


Water
should begin entering the tub. Because the tub is plastic we can see
the water line begin to rise inside it. This machine is designed not
to agitate unless it\'s full of water. Since we know the drain pump is
good we could continue filling it and wait for the agitation cycle to
kick-in. But we aren\'t going to do that, yet.



Just
as the machine will not agitate without a full tub, it will not spin
unless it\'s empty. Both of these functions are controlled by the
pressure switch. The pressure switch is behind the backsplash of the
control panel. They seldom fail and can give a shock if touched wrong
while the machine is plugged in so leave it alone for now. You can
see the hose or tubing that leads to the pressure switch over on the
left side of the tub. It actually connects to the tub via a small
squarish box that protrudes from the side of the lower part of the
tub. You can see water in there if you look, even with the tub empty.
With a good light you can see that there are a couple of little
compartments in there and the water is probably contained within
those compartments. If you look really close you might see that there
are two smaller-than-a-dime sized holes on the tub side within the
compartments. Those holes allow water to enter the box at a rate
commensurate to the filling of the tub. As the box fills (it doesn\'t
fill much) it creates pressure that pushes a diaphragm that closes or
opens a switch (the pressure switch) that sends a signal to the motor
to spin in the direction of agitation. The timer controls the length
of agitation.



Generally
a failed pressure switch will make itself evident by a tub that
overflows. Even then, it is usually not the pressure switch that has
failed. Most pressure switch "failures" are caused by either the
pressure switch hose becoming blocked, loose, or completely
dislodged. The hose can also develop wear spots, because if not
properly adjusted it has a tendency to kind of saw back and forth on
these models. However the hose is really a very flexible thick walled
tubing that can take a lot of abuse. I\'ve never had to replace one
and I\'ve seen some pretty badly worn pressure switch tubing. Also
that sawing motion can usually be fixed by slight adjustments in the
positioning of the tubing; a slight tug here or there and maybe a
twist where it connects to the tub for example. Personally I don\'t
think the pressure switch is causing your problem but it is possible
so let\'s check.



First
open the lid so the machine can\'t agitate or spin. When the water
level is about an inch above the top row of drain holes in the
loading basket the pressure switch is designed to trigger. So we want
the water level close to that but just below the holes is fine too.
You can shut off the water at that point and unplug the machine to be
safe. Now remove the hose from the box. The box has a nipple the hose
slides over so pinch there and pull straight up. You may have to get
a good hold on it and give it a little twist as you pull. It will
come off quick and sudden so take care not to bang your hand up and
be aware that there is sharp metal around. After it comes off I
always stick it back on then pull it off again just to get the feel
for it and to make sure it still feels tight. When you remove the
hose the water level in the box should begin to rise. Depending on
the depth of the water in the tub it will rise either very slowly or
fairly rapidly. If you put your finger over the hole it will stop
rising. If you remove your finger the water level should rise
steadily to the top of the box and squirt a 4" high stream of
water. If it does, put the tube back on. If we were doing this with
the machine running and still filling we\'d need to stop the filling
manually. It will not stop filling on it\'s own at this point.


If
it doesn\'t shoot a stream of water you need to ream out the nipple in
the top of the box with a paperclip or piece of wire. It\'s a super
simple procedure that should probably only need to be done once or
twice in the entire lifetime of the machine. Don\'t worry about the
water, the floor in the bottom of the machine will contain what
little there is. Once it\'s flowing replace the tubing. Again you
would have to stop the fill manually if water was still running. Now
plug the machine back in, close the lid, set it to drain and restart.
Remove the hose when the tub is about empty so the box drains to
it\'s idle level. Stop the machine when the tub is empty.


Okay
one more pressure switch test and we\'re done. With the box drained to
it\'s idle level, the tub empty and the machine off, pull the hose
off the box. If you blow very lightly into that hose you will feel
the diaphragm in the pressure switch move. Don\'t blow hard, it could
mess it up. Try it a couple of times. It just takes a little bit of a
breath and you will feel it mostly, if it\'s real quiet you may hear
it as well. You may have to pull on the hose a little to get it past
the outside of the machine so your head is not in the cabinet. That
whole tub assembly is going to move suddenly an solidly and we want
no body parts near it when it does. If you are satisfied you can do
so safely, without your head in the cabinet, let\'s see if we can make
the machine agitate. Close the lid. Turn the dial to start a normal
wash and restart. Don\'t worry about the box on the side we\'ll be done
before the water in it even begins to rise. With water entering the
tub hold the tube with your left hand and place your right hand on
top of the machine. Very lightly blow into it just as you did
earlier. When you feel the diaphragm do it\'s thing the machine should
begin to agitate or spin. As soon as you can tell whether it is
agitating or spinning stop blowing and place the hose back on the box
you are done. Go ahead and stop the machine. It was supposed to
agitate. If it spun you probably need a new transmission. If it
agitated you probably need a new timer. Let me know.

Jan 08, 2013 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Top load washer Inglis mod.im45000,ser.cp4304291 smelly, cleaned lint trap,inside of tub,put baking soda in,


Spray a stream of bleach-type cleaning solution (Clorox Clean-up, or bleach and water mix) between the inner and outer tub at the top rim. Run a soak cycle with water and bleach (full load water level setting). I haven't looked at the manual for your washer, so if it doesn't have a soak cycle, start a normal cycle, stop it after a minute of agitation, then let the washer sit for at least an hour before starting it again.

Sometimes the particle traps at the water inlets get a bacterial film growing on them. Turn off the water to the machine, remove the hoses and clean off the trap screens. If there is a film, put the hoses in a bucket and turn the water on to flush them out. This will help prevent the return of the odor.

May 30, 2011 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

A lot of lint left on the clothers after load finished. Rinsing twice more only helped a little. My machine is about 12 years old. Don't know model but it's a top-loading with mini-basket.


Have you ever cleaned the lint trap? many people do not realize that washing machines have lint traps too. It is usually located under the fabric softener cup in the agitator -- not sure on yours without model number. It has a lot of tiny holes in it that clog fairly easily. One trick to clean it is to put it down in the drum where the wash goes and run a wash cycle, but you may have to do a bit by hand as well. Hope this helps.

Feb 15, 2011 | GE Washing Machines

2 Answers

I have a Kenmore 'Elite' front loading washer that stinks


Have you been leaving the door cracked open after washing a load? If not, mildew will form and smell. If you have, then it would be something else. Respond with any questions.

Jun 12, 2009 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Won't finish cycle, keeps working, no spinning/draining


If the timer went bad then there is going to be no way to just select spin cycle. The timer will need to be replaced first before this can be done. Sorry for the bad news

May 25, 2009 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

I have a GE WBVH6240HWW Front load washer. I


i would try to clean the trap out at the bottom, there is a panel on the bottom take that off and clean out the trap, it looks like a turn dial, something like that has happend to me, it cant hurt to try

Feb 24, 2009 | General Electric WBVH6240HWW Front Load...

1 Answer

Dryer produces low heat but not high heat


check the vent outside it seems to be getting too hot and cycling the element off and on your safety therm.

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