Question about Yard Machines 24" 208cc Two Stage Snow Thrower

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Wheels will not move. had to slide small gear on speed controler hex shaft. away from other gear to get wheels to turn . now one speed fast foward.

Mod. number 31as6bce752 ser. number jd64b50409

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Most have a friction plate and drive gear with rubber ring. if any one or all are worn you lose part of you lower speeds.

Posted on Feb 08, 2013

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I have a 2008 GMC Yukon XL Denali. I hit a small snow drift yesterday and now my speedometer stopped working, my RPMS are bouncing, oil pressure is bouncing, temp is bouncing and vehicle wont shift out of...


Vehicle speed sensor, wheel speed sensor, your VSS operates you MPH and tells the trans how fast you are going and when to shift, it is telling the trans that your not moving so why would it shift? Next your ABS wheel speed sensor tell the car what wheel is moving at what speed to activate traction control and abs systems both are very sensitive and easy to break

Dec 29, 2013 | GMC Yukon Denali Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Friction wheel sticks on hex shaft


Usually the shaft is bone dry. The grease and dust are what jam it up. Wash it off with clean gas.

Jan 29, 2012 | Garden

1 Answer

The shaft piece on my hobbylock 786 serger is loose


The top hex screw I think holds the bushing that allows it to slide freely. Keep that loose. If you open the panel where the lightbulb lives and spin the wheel, you will see a small flathead screw come into sight near the top of the rotation, through a small round window in the case. Tightening this screw a bit should keep the needleshaft moving with the wheel. Unfortunately I am still trying to find out how to position it so that it's properly timed.

Jan 20, 2010 | PfaFF Sewing Machines

1 Answer

Shaft coming out of transmission that clutch basket slide upon..it this suppose to free wheel while transmission is in gear...please help this is on a big dog k-9 motorcycle..6 speed baker transmission


Without clutch plates installed. The clutch basket inner is directly connected to the tranny input shaft- if you turn the inner clutch basket while in gear it should drive the rear wheel. The outer basket should spin freely regardless of gear selection and have no affect on the tranny.
The input shaft of the tranny itself ( the shaft the clutch basket slides on) should not free wheel when in gear.

Dec 06, 2009 | 2001 Titan Gecko RM

1 Answer

My Crosley turntable is spinning too fast at 33RPM


Mismatch speeds on older turntables is normally due to either 1) a kink in the speed switch mechanism or 2) a hardening and slipping of the rubber drive wheel.
A very small motor with a chamfered shaft drives the rubber drive wheel, and the wheel is moved by the speed control up and down the drive shaft to produce various rpm speeds.
In your case, it's likely turning at 45rpm because it isn't settling onto the 33rpm part of the shaft.
Piddle with the speed control, then count the speed (number of turns in a minute) You'll figure it out!

Nov 25, 2009 | Crosley Audio Players & Recorders

1 Answer

Need to remove rear axle


OK I did this recently, lift and support rear, remove wheels, place drain tray under centre of axel, remove rear cover (dont worry you dont have to touch the bearings or settings) take the truck out of park and select neutral. turn the large gear (crownwheel) until you see one 10 mm bolt head, unscrew this bolt, turn the crownwheel a bit more and drop out the 1/2" pin this bolt held in. you can now tap the hubs in a little and slide out a horseshoe clip that retains the shaft, pull out the shaft and change the dust shield (they can be had after market cheaply) slide the shaft back in, do other side, re fit the horseshoe clips and pull the shafts out until the clip is inside its recess,slide in the 1/2" pin, you might need to move the little gears that run on this pin with a bit of stiff wire or little finger untill the pin slides home, align the bolt hile with a small screwdriver and fit 10 mm bolt, new gasket, fit cover and new oil, fit brakes etc and wheels. get back if you get stuck.

Oct 28, 2009 | 2002 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

Sunbeam Mixmaster 12 speed may need lubrication


Part 1. Oiling the model 12:
Anyone can do this part.

On the top of the motor are four places where oil should be applied.
Starting from the speed finder dial and working forward-

There is a small hole on the top of the motor, just in front of the speed dial. Using a wooden skewer or a match, clean the hole out, and apply two drops of good quality sewing machine oil.

On top of the motor, and near and behind the juicer attaching cone is another hole, sort of key-hole shaped. Clean it out and put in one drop of oil only.

Three drops of oil go into the juicer cone. Let them run down the side of the hole.

Next to the juicer cone is another round hole. You may need to turn the handle as in removing the beaters to uncover it. Clean this hole too, and apply another three drops of oil.

Do not apply more oil than specified. It will get into the works where it shouldn't.

The following proceedures assume some mechanical ability. Read first to assess whether you are competent before starting.

After all these years, the gears in the front of the motor housing probably need fresh grease. This is a fibre based food grade grease that can be obtained from most bearing sellers. (I used a non-food grade grease, but I have to watch that the motor doesn't get too hot, and the grease run down the beaters, which can happen in extreme conditions.)

Prepare to get greasy during this proceedure. Latex gloves are an asset for doing this job.

Remove the cover plate in the centre of the front, and then the central screw from the front and pull away the front housing cover and handle. Don't loose the coil spring inside. It goes over the screw you just undid.

Unclip the return spring on the beater ejector, and remove ejector and spring together, slide the ejector down and off the beater spindles, then up and out of the guides..

There are four screws that retain the gear cover. The lower right hand one also retains a wire. Remove the screws, and gently bend the wire so the cover can be removed. There is a gasket underneath. Take care not to break it, it's brittle.

Once the cover is away, the gears and worm shaft are visible. Using a pop stick or old screw driver, remove the grease around the under side of each gear. A square headed set-screw retains each gear. When you find each screw, remove it completely. Turning the worm shaft will make the gears rotate.
Once both screws are out, pull the beater drive shafts downwards and out of the housing, and lift out the gears.
Using pop sticks, paper towels etc, but NOT solvents, clean out the gear space. Remove all the grease possible. A toothbrush is good for cleaning the worm thread. Use someone elses.
Wash the gears and shafts in petrol, kerosene or similar and dry thoroughly.
Reassembly is the above in reverse order, first filling the gear housing with fresh grease.
Grease each drive shaft lightly before refitting. Note the holes for the set screws in the shafts.
The nylon gear goes on the left, brass under the juicer cone.
Fit the nylon gear first, working the shaft upwards until the locating hole in the shaft can be seen through the screw hole in the gear. Fit and tighten the set screw.
Align the brass gear so both screws face forwards at the same time when engaged with the motor worm, to prevent the beaters clashing. You may have to put the brass gear in and out a few times to get the right teeth engaged with the worm shaft. Then slide the shaft in, once again observing the alignment of holes to ensure the set screw locks the gear securely.

Put everything else back in reverse order. Apply a smear of grease for the beater ejector where it slides, and don't forget to put the wire back under it's screw.

Part 2, speed control.

The jerky operation at low speed is probably due to dirty points in the governer. Addressing this involves disassembling the rear end of the motor.
DON'T pull the motor armature out of the housing without first removing the brushes during this proceedure. There's no need to remove the armature, but if you're curious....

Remove the chrome cap from the centre of the speed finder dial. Remove the lock nut from the thrust control screw under the cap. Remove the dial, catching the washer that goes under the nut.
There is a resistor, usually green, and a capacitor, a small aluminium cannister under the dial. Gently pry the retaining legs away from one end of each and remove them. Note which one goes where so you can put them back correctly. Marking with a felt pen is a good idea.

Now are visible two slotted screws. Remove these screws and pull the governer housing back and away from the motor. Note the pin with a plastic head, and remember to put it back when reassembling the same way around.

Locate and clean the points with a slip of soft wood and metal polish. Clean away the polish thoroughly. Do not use emery paper, it will make the points arc, and speed control will be worse than now.

Put everything back the way it came off.

To reset the governer, leave the locknut on the thrust controling screw loose. Set the speed control to position 1. Whilst pressing the dial home with one hand, screw the thrust screw in or outwards until the motor just starts to run, and lock the screw by tightening the nut. Test the control for full range, and tweak by slightly altering the thrust screw position as required. Getting the speeds just right first go is usually a fluke.

Replace the chrome cap and you're done.

May 12, 2009 | Sunbeam 2485 MixMaster Series Hand Mixer

3 Answers

Waterboss water softner. E1 error message with water running right through system.


THis has happened to me a couple of times and i have fixed it by doing the following:

1. slide the electronic display unit off its base
2. spray a bit of WD 40 on the 2 gears right next to each other (they are gold and black on my unit)
3. spray a bit of WD40 on the large grey wheel on the other side of the 2 gears. The 2 gears are supposed to turn the grey wheel, which in turns pushes a little black plunger in with one of its three little prongs. Use a screw driver to make sure that the plunger is moving freely - push it in and out a few times and put a bit of WD40 on it.

The whole error code is about that large grey wheel not moving - it is the "magnetic disc" that the owner's manual refers to.

Finally, reposition the elwectronic display unit - make sure it is tightly secured in its original position, or it will not work.

Unplug the power to the display unit and then re-plug it back in. The unit should go through its cycle on its own then...assuming you don't have any damaged parts. Hope this helps!!!!

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