Question about Dishwashers
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
first thing id check is your incoming water fron sink make sure valve turned on- hot side. should be under sink. also some models when you first turn unit on they drain so make sure and give it a few minutes before you assume something is wrong. if valve off then thats your problem,if it is on, then i would remove the btm access panel and check your water valve. if you have a ohm tester valve can be ohmed out if you get a reading in ohms that means water valve is good. if you test valve and no reading from valve then you have a bad water valve. if bad valve roughly 45-85 for part and labor would be around 75-125 more or less depending on were you live and what servicer you use. hope this helps and gives you ageneral idea of how much it would cost to repair roughly
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
Get this every few months - don't know the problem but we disconnect from unit and tilt the dishwasher and loads of stinky water spills out - from where I don't know. Then just **** all the water out of the drain bit with a chicken baster - primative but has worked every time so far. Keep trying to get water out until doesn't hum when switched on.
Posted on Feb 15, 2010
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description it is likely a faulty control board, unfortunately. Here's what you can do to check...
**Turn off any power to the unit...safety first**
You'll need to access the control, this is best done by way of removing the front panel, i.e.
Once to this point, identify the wires on contact PF2 and inspect the closest relay to it, which will be K1.
If you are capable, measure amperage from PF2 when the unit is idle there shouldn't be power present, you'll require an ammeter.
Having said all that, it may be obvious when you visually inspect the control, if it's burnt up or if the relay looks burnt inside.
This is an example of a damaged control but it may not be as extreme with a heater relay defective...
Let me know what you find and I'll try to help you further if necessary. For the control should be available at "repairclinic.com"...but if not let me know I may have one left.
Good luck and thanks for choosing FixYa.
Posted on Nov 17, 2010
Disconnect the power source to your dishwasher before you conduct this or any other test. Either unplug the unit from the wall outlet, remove the appropriate fuse from the fuse box, or flip the appropriate breaker in the circuit breaker panel.
Locate your dishwasher's heating element. Open the dishwasher door and look into the tub. It is the thin, circular tube at the base of your dishwasher. It may or may not be covered. If it is covered, remove the lower dishrack, and then remove the cover.
Your heating element is going to have two metal terminals. One at each end. Each terminal reaches downwards, into the base of the dishwasher. Mentally mark the area where each terminal enters the base of the tub.
Now you need to gain access to the heating element's wiring. You can do this by first removing the lower kickplate panel of the dishwasher. There will be at least two screws (but maybe four) holding the kickplate panel in place. They are located either on the top or the bottom of the panel. If the screws are located on the top, you may need to open the dishwasher door in order to gain access to them. Close the door to remove the panel, though.
Now look into the lower access area that you have just uncovered. Pinpoint the area where the heating element terminals extend through the base of the dishwasher. They will each have a wire connected to it. Label each of the wires so that you will be able to properly reconnect them later. Now you can pull the wires off the terminals.
Each wire is connected to a terminal using a slip-on connector. Grasp the connector and pull on it firmly.
DO NOT pull on the wire itself. Pull only from the connector. You may decide you need to use a pair of needle nosed pliers to help you.
Both terminals are secured in place with a lock nut. You can use a crescent wrench or a pair of pliers to losen, and then remove each lock nut. Reach into the dishwasher and lift the element out. Discard it. Situate your new heating element in place of the old one. Slip the terminals through the holes in the base of the dishwasher. Replace each of the lock nuts. Use a crescent wrench or a pair of pliers to tighten them in place. Now reattach each of the wires - remember, you labeled them earlier so you'd know which one leads to which terminal. Put the lower kickplate panel back in place. If you removed a heating element cover, replace it now. Replace the lower dishrack, and close the dishwasher door. Restore power to your dishwasher.
Posted on Jan 22, 2011
Hello, welcome to fixya
Here's what works for me, move the rack stops to the left if you haven't already and then the rack itself.
Now you'll need to remove the bumpers at the back of the rack rail...
push down on the bumper as shown
and pull it down and out at the same time...it takes some force, you can use a small screwdriver.
Now you'll need to slide the rail all the way out as shown, but careful not to let the ball bearings fall into the sump area in the process.
I usually hold the broken piece in place while removing the rail...
...( they come in a kit at "repairclinic.com" under number 1394379 like shown here )
The trick now is to install the balls into the holders first
and the holders into the stationary part of the rail on the inside wall...
The inside wall rail will keep the holders in place as you slide the inside rail into place...this will usually require holding the holder with one hand while pushing the sliding rail back into place...
Once this is done, re-install the back rail bumpers followed by the rack and then finally the front rack stoppers and that should do it.
Hope that explain it for you or gives you an idea of how it needs to be done. Please take a moment to rate the assistance I provided here today favorable and a brief testimony is also appreciated when providing free solutions.
Thanks for visiting "fixya" today for your repair help. Let me know if you require further assistance.
I should also mention you as I alluded to, be sure none of the old 8 ball bearings didn't fall down into either the drain pump or circulation/wash pump. This is something I've seen far too often on Asko dishwashers with the end result being a broken impeller in either pump...or both, yikes ! I use a telescopic magnet to fish around as it will be the only object made of metal...unless something else has fallen in the sump well area, it's good to check.
Again, good luck :)
Posted on May 16, 2011
Tips for a great answer:
May 25, 2015 | Asko D1776 Stainless Steel Built-in...
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If you want to post an email address I can send you a "pdf" complete parts list of the specified Asko D1776 dishwasher.
i'll watch for your response, Thank's for coming to FixYa.
Feb 22, 2011 | Asko D1776 Built-in Dishwasher
I have an older dishwasher also and recently my wife also complained about it not cleaning right... so me being the man I am tried in vain to clean the things... Bought new spray arms online and installed them in minutes...now the thing works like new... However I have also found that if the heating element goes bad then that also can mess things up bad... So I would buy new spray arms, and also check out the heating element to make sure it is working... Here is a tip that will help you with the online buying...
Dishwasher Spray Arms not Spinning
How to Buy Appliance Parts Online
A bad heating element causes many problems in dishwashers...
Dishwasher Problems The Heating Element not Working
Asker's Testimonial "explanation very clear. will give it a go and see how simple it was. thanks Ronnie " - ronnieshomes
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