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My Maytag Dryer Model MCE800AYQ the bottom dryer says "close Door" even when it is closed and will not operate?

Bottom dryer will not start and says "close door" when it is closed?

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Look at part #4 (door switch) on the link: http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrames.aspx?ModelID=121445&ModelNum=MCE8000AYQ&mfgModelNum=&ManufactureID=1&Selected=55725&Position=5&mfg=Maytag&Type=Dryer&Mark=5 I think it has been damaged. The part is resonablly priced. Investigate further and see if you are confident enough to DIY.

Posted on Jan 21, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 32 Answers

SOURCE: Door won't fully latch, light stays on, dryer won't function

There is typically a small plastic piece that catches the door and keeps it latched. The door has the male side and the frame of the dryer has the female side.

Either the male part on the door has broken off (or bent) or the the female part on the frame has broken. Replace this part and you'll be back in business. It is typically called a door latch and it comes with both the male and female parts.

Here is a picture
of a typical one.


Posted on Sep 23, 2008

  • 8 Answers

SOURCE: Door won't latch, interior light stays on, dryer will not start

it appears that someone bent the door or the hinge. that is my first guess.

Posted on Oct 25, 2008

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: Indesit IC70C Condensor dryer

We experienced a similar problem and corrected it by closing the drying door and then hitting "OPEN" followed by closing. Sometimes we use a tool to release the catch and then close the door. We have not seen this problem return.

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

jumptrout51
  • 3361 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag dryer timer keeps running

Your dryers timer contacts have fused to gether.
The only repair is to replace the timer.

Posted on Mar 25, 2009

  • 949 Answers

SOURCE: Dryer won't start, checked thermal fuses and start switch.

It sounds like you have been through most of the areas too look.

One thing to make sure of is that you have a full 240 volts. An electric dryer can measure 120 volts. from L1 to common and 120 volts from L2 to common but you also need to make sure you have 240 volts from L1 to L2 on the meter, one leg of the breaker or one of the two fuses could be blown.

If this is alright you only have a couple components left. The timer contacts and the drive motor. Either of these could be causing the issue.

To check the motor with the power disconnected check for continuity between switch terminal 5 and the Green(black) wire on the motor. If you have no continuity the motor is bad. Check for continuity between the terminal 6 and the yellow wire on the motor, if you have no continuity there the motor is bad. Check for continuity between terminal 1 and 2 on the motor if you you do not have continuity the motor is bad.

The timer should have continuity between the Yellow and Grey wire terminals for the motor to start.

I hope this helps


Posted on Apr 23, 2010

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If I remember correctly, this unit has too door catches, one on the bottom and other on top. When the door is closed, it can only latch at the bottom and not the top, the door switch is at the top only. Try push the top of the door to assure it is closed completely. This should work to solve this issue.

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http://www.partselect.com/dryer+dryer-wont-start+repair.htm

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Hi there,

Well first of all you can check door switch - If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. The door switch is a simple on / off switch to indicate whether the dryer's door is open or closed. The dryer will not operate when the door is open. If your dryer runs with the door open, the switch may shorted closed or there may be a dangerous electrical short in your dryer. If your dryer will not start when you press the start button and you hear no sounds, the door switch may be the problem. 

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If this specific dryer has the door that opens forward (top to bottom as opposed to left to right, etc...) the common problem is that downward pressure on the door has bent it slightly. This happened on mine when one of my daughters would lean on the door while loading and/or unloading the dryer. If this is the case, then the door may pop open while running even though the latch looks good.

The best way to tell is just let the door rest naturally in the closed position. If it does not rest all the way closed, then the lower portion of the door & frame has been slightly bent as indicated above.

The door & frame has to be slightly bent/forced back out at the bottom. This can be accomplished with a large screwdriver or something similar such as a paint mixing paddle or basically anything that will fit between the bottom of the door (from the inside) and the dryer frame. Very slowly close the door with the paint paddle or large screw driver in place (again on the inside...not from the outside of the door). The goal is to just barely force the bottom of the door framing back out without warping it grossly.

Just take your time and be as gentle as possible & make small adjustments until the door will remain closed and latched.

The latch is really only required to keep the door secure while clothes are beating against the door interior. Proper alignment actually keeps the door closed.

Let me know if this helps.

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