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My Smartfit room unit is showing no fault codes but boiler wont cut in I have no power at PL in control box or at L on boiler

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Boiler make and model????

To which control box do you refer? The system junction box? Boiler junction box?
No power at L (line?) on boiler (and this is why the make and model is important) means boiler should show no signs of life at all, but then it's boiler specific, some have 3 wire power (L,N,E), others have an extra terminal called something like SL.

Posted on Feb 26, 2013

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Xerox 4150 workcenter says fuser module needs to warm up. This appears usually first thing in morning. I have to power off then on to stop this from showing on the screen. also, it wont print until after I...


1. Switch off the machine, then switch on the machine.
2. Enter dC330 code 10-100 to heat the fuser to 180 degrees. Enter codes 10-200 (centre
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3. Enter code 10-300 to check power supply unit 2. If necessary, install a new power supply
unit 2, PL 1.10 Item 4.
4. Switch off the machine. Remove the fuser assembly. Check that the thermistors, PL 10.25
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5. Check for continuity between the two pins on the fuser assembly connector, PL 10.25
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NOTE: A cold fuser has a resistance of approximately 11.5 ohms (220V/240V) or 2 ohms
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6. Check that there is continuity through the fuser heater and across the over temperature
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7. Check the wiring between the fuser connector, PL 4.15 Item 20 and CON3, CON8 and
CON9 on Power Supply Unit 2. If necessary, install a new fuser connector, PL 4.15 Item
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8. Check the wiring between CON4 on Power Supply Unit 2 and CN7 on the Main PWB.
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• Fuser assembly, PL 10.25 Item 1.
• HVPS, PL 1.10 Item 2.
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4250/4260 Checkout
NOTE: The main PWB has test points. The location of the test points is shown on the Main
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Refer to Wiring Diagram 17, Wiring Diagram 18 and Wiring Diagram 21. Perform the following:
1. Switch off the machine, then switch on the machine.
2. Enter dC330 code 10-100 to heat the fuser to 180 degrees. Enter codes 10-200 (centre
thermistor) and 10-210 (front thermistor) to verify the condition of the thermistors.
3. Enter code 10-300 to check power supply unit 2. If necessary, install a new power supply
unit 2, PL 1.15 Item 4.
4. Switch off the machine. Remove the fuser assembly. Check that the thermistors, PL 10.28
Item 9 are clean and in good contact with the fuser heat roller. Check the wiring to the
thermistor assembly. Check the wiring to the NC thermistor, PL 10.28 Item 19. Install new
components as necessary, PL 10.28.
5. Check for continuity between the three pins on the fuser assembly connector, PL 10.28
Item 8.
NOTE: A cold fuser has a resistance of approximately 11.5 ohms (220V/240V) or 2 ohms
(110V).
6. Check that there is continuity through the fuser heat lamps and across the over temperature
cut-out. Install new components as necessary, PL 10.28.
7. Check the wiring between the fuser connector, PL 4.15 Item 20 and CN5 on the Main
PWB. If necessary, install a new fuser connector, PL 4.15 Item 20.
8. Check the wiring between CON1 on Power Supply Unit 2 and CN7 on the Main PWB.
9. Install new components as necessary:
• Fuser assembly, PL 10.28 Item 1.
• Power supply unit 2, PL 1.15 Item 4.
10. Perform the OF5 Main PWB Check RAP

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Go to honeywell.com
Under red welcome sign
Bottom red highlighted box literature/image search
Type in thermostat model number
Click on arrow to right
Then click on the PDF files owners manual / installation instructions
If you can’t find what you want, the bottom left and bottom of web
Page, they have homeowners assistance and Home products to get the help you need.

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A) Move the slide in to the off position
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I have a honeywell smartfit but it keeps coming up with a F4 error


I had exactly the same problem. F4 code says the control valve has jammed --- but it hadn’t.

I ended up having to swap out the room controller and the base unit (I bought the pair since it was winter and I couldn’t ‘eff’ about)

On investigating (well, you have to don’t you?) I could find no obvious fault but did notice that a large electrolytic capacitor was across the actuator motor.

Since these things work by reversing the supply polarity to the motor to drive the actuator one way and the other it strikes me as strange that a polarity sensitive component, one that must be always connecter positive to positive, is used in the way that it is.

Bottom line, tough luck, mate. Replace the units.

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