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Porta heat 55 model 50137 does not work, fuel problems

Can't get fuel to flow. Has good spark, but fuel filter is empty and can't figure out how to get the fuel to flow from the tank to the blower. Is there some kind of fuel pump? How does it work and what makes it work.

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  • Daniel Morbach Jan 23, 2013

    we checked for spark and it has good spark, the fan runs good but the fuel filter has no fuel in it and can't get fuel to the blower where the igniter is. what do we look for

  • Dennis Hayden
    Dennis Hayden Nov 18, 2014

    it could be the hose that go's from your filter to your tank .If it come's off you won't get know full to come to the filter

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  • 74 Answers

REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.

  1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
  2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
  3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......
porta heat 55 model 50137 does not work, fuel prob - m29609t.jpgM29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
m16545t.jpgM16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

Posted on Mar 04, 2015

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SOURCE: PH55 "lawn boy" porta- heater need parts

Lawn Boy sent me an 800 number for the company they sold the heater line to.

800-362-6951 portable heater parts. I have not called yet to find out if they will have qhat I need. Will call tomorrow, Tuesday.

Steve

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

heatman101
  • 43501 Answers

SOURCE: I HAVE A MASTER MODEL B165TT FORCED OIL FIRED

Hi,


Here are a couple of tips that I wrote that tell you how to troubleshoot a Torpedo or Reddy heater...

Reddy Heater - Troubleshooting Torpedo Heaters





Torpedo Heater Pump Pressure Adjustment


heatman101

Posted on Jan 12, 2011

  • 4736 Answers

SOURCE: I Have an old M30 REDDY HEATER, It won't start,

Depending on how old your heater is, you may bay be able to download the Owners Manual from the Reddy Heater Home Page website. Reddy Heater was made by DESA International (now out of business). Another company bought the Reddy Heater part of the business, so they are still being manufactured.

Posted on Feb 02, 2011

  • 13 Answers

SOURCE: I Have an old M30

The line from the pump to the nozzel should go inthe front fitting and the one from the tank goes to the backfitting. If either of these have cracks in them or do not fit tightly over the fittings it will not build enough pressure and burn. You may also check the filters mainly the output filter as this will also effect pump pressure. I don't have as much experiance with that brand so I can't be sure exactly about the pressure. I think it should be 3.5 to 4 Psi. If this doesn't help please email me and I will find out for sure.

Posted on Feb 03, 2011

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1 Answer

Cranks no spark


Need Make/Model/Year/Engine Model/Deck Size, and hours on meter if you have one.

Let's say you have less than 300 hours on the engine. Let's further assume it worked last summer, or last week, but now it's acting up. Let's also verify the battery is in good shape and fully charged.

A mechanically functional (meaning all the internal parts are working, i.e. pistons, valves, etc) engine requires 3 things, air, fuel, spark. So the quickest way to start your diagnostics is to remove the cover over the air filter and then remove the air filter. I do not recommend spraying Quick Start.
  1. remove air filter (set it aside for the rest of the diagnostics)
  2. put throttle on fast run (do not choke)
  3. pour an ounce or two (a shot glass) of fresh gas into the carburetor
  4. crank engine (15 to 20 seconds, rest to cool the starter, repeat 3 times if it does not fire at first).
Removing the air filter and placing the throttle at full speed with no choke eliminates the "air" question. Dumping in the fuel eliminated all fuel related questions. What's left? Spark. If the engine fires and runs a bit, then dies, you have eliminated the spark question. The engine started so Spark and Air are good; you have to track down a fuel problem.

If the engine does not fire, you have eliminated the Air & Fuel questions; you must tract down a Spark problem.

Tracking down fuel problems.
  1. Make sure there is plenty of fresh fuel in tank.
  2. Remove fuel line from filter and remove the filter, gas should pour out of the hose coming from the tank. If it does not, remove gas tank cap. If fuel flows now, you need to unclog the cap vent or replace the cap. If the fuel still does not flow then blow air from the filter end of the hose back up through fuel line to blow out blockage inside the gas tank. Once you have fuel flowing out the line to the filter, PUT ON A FRESH FILTER. Try cranking the engine. If it still does not start move on to the carburetor.
  3. Note: many systems have a fuel shut off solenoid. This is a small black cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor. It has two wires running to it. It should make an audible click when you turn the key on.
  4. NOTE: if battery voltage drops below 9 volts when cranking or while the engine is running, the fuel solenoid will not function. That means the engine will not start or will die soon after starting. So check your battery voltage before, during, and after cranking. If the battery voltage is good before but drops below 9 volts while cranking this is generally a sign the battery has one or more bad cells. Replace the battery. If the battery is in fact good and the voltage is still dropping you may have a bad starter motor and it is drawing too much amperage.
  5. Ck to see that the carburetor bowl is full of fuel, if not...you may have to disassemble and clean the carb at this point.
Tracking down Spark problems.
  1. verify battery fully charged.
  2. verify the fuel cutoff solenoid clicks when you turn the key switch
  3. get fresh spark plugs and verify gap
  4. install plugs and crank. Perhaps verify spark with a spark testor
If these simple steps do not solve the spark problem, you have a Spark problem that moves into the arena of complex. You will need to check coil gap and coil performance. If it still doesn't start you will need to diagnose the electrical system for wiring and safety switch problems, key switch problems, fuses, etc.

A Problem of Air Control.
If you determine the Spark & Fuel systems are good, the next likely problem is Valve adjustment out of wack. This is a problem of Air Control (and its sister compression), the third element in the engine trinity. Usually this problem shows up as backfire; either back through the carburetor or out through the exhaust. It will backfire while you are trying to start it. HOWEVER, it does not always generate backfire. You may instead notice that the engine spins more freely than usual; or oddly enough just the opposite and the engine bind while you are cranking it. This is because the compression is lost by out of wack valves or the compression is out of sync with the spark. You need a valve adjustment.

Once you get it running be sure to replace the Air Filter with a new one.

These simple steps solve most starting and running questions and problems.

Mar 17, 2015 | Garden

1 Answer

Cranks but no spark


Need Make/Model/Year/Engine Model/Deck Size, and hours on meter if you have one.

Let's say you have less than 300 hours on the engine. Let's further assume it worked last summer, or last week, but now it's acting up. Let's also verify the battery is in good shape and fully charged.

A mechanically functional (meaning all the internal parts are working, i.e. pistons, valves, etc) engine requires 3 things, air, fuel, spark. So the quickest way to start your diagnostics is to remove the cover over the air filter and then remove the air filter. I do not recommend spraying Quick Start.
  1. remove air filter (set it aside for the rest of the diagnostics)
  2. put throttle on fast run (do not choke)
  3. pour an ounce or two (a shot glass) of fresh gas into the carburetor
  4. crank engine (15 to 20 seconds, rest to cool the starter, repeat 3 times if it does not fire at first).
Removing the air filter and placing the throttle at full speed with no choke eliminates the "air" question. Dumping in the fuel eliminated all fuel related questions. What's left? Spark. If the engine fires and runs a bit, then dies, you have eliminated the spark question. The engine started so Spark and Air are good; you have to track down a fuel problem.

If the engine does not fire, you have eliminated the Air & Fuel questions; you must tract down a Spark problem.

Tracking down fuel problems.
  1. Make sure there is plenty of fresh fuel in tank.
  2. Remove fuel line from filter and remove the filter, gas should pour out of the hose coming from the tank. If it does not, remove gas tank cap. If fuel flows now, you need to unclog the cap vent or replace the cap. If the fuel still does not flow then blow air from the filter end of the hose back up through fuel line to blow out blockage inside the gas tank. Once you have fuel flowing out the line to the filter, PUT ON A FRESH FILTER. Try cranking the engine. If it still does not start move on to the carburetor.
  3. Note: many systems have a fuel shut off solenoid. This is a small black cylinder on the bottom of the carburetor. It has two wires running to it. It should make an audible click when you turn the key on.
  4. NOTE: if battery voltage drops below 9 volts when cranking or while the engine is running, the fuel solenoid will not function. That means the engine will not start or will die soon after starting. So check your battery voltage before, during, and after cranking. If the battery voltage is good before but drops below 9 volts while cranking this is generally a sign the battery has one or more bad cells. Replace the battery. If the battery is in fact good and the voltage is still dropping you may have a bad starter motor and it is drawing too much amperage.
  5. Ck to see that the carburetor bowl is full of fuel, if not...you may have to disassemble and clean the carb at this point.
Tracking down Spark problems.
  1. verify battery fully charged.
  2. verify the fuel cutoff solenoid clicks when you turn the key switch
  3. get fresh spark plugs and verify gap
  4. install plugs and crank. Perhaps verify spark with a spark testor
If these simple steps do not solve the spark problem, you have a Spark problem that moves into the arena of complex. You will need to check coil gap and coil performance. If it still doesn't start you will need to diagnose the electrical system for wiring and safety switch problems, key switch problems, fuses, etc.

A Problem of Air Control.
If you determine the Spark & Fuel systems are good, the next likely problem is Valve adjustment out of wack. This is a problem of Air Control (and its sister compression), the third element in the engine trinity. Usually this problem shows up as backfire; either back through the carburetor or out through the exhaust. It will backfire while you are trying to start it. HOWEVER, it does not always generate backfire. You may instead notice that the engine spins more freely than usual; or oddly enough just the opposite and the engine bind while you are cranking it. This is because the compression is lost by out of wack valves or the compression is out of sync with the spark. You need a valve adjustment.

Once you get it running be sure to replace the Air Filter with a new one.

These simple steps solve most starting and running questions and problems.

Mar 17, 2015 | Garden

1 Answer

WHY WOUNT MY 2001 4.6 CROWN VIC STAY STARTED MY FUEL PUMP IS GOOD FUEL FILTER IS FLOWING AND STILL NOTHING I AM GETTING FUEL TO THE INJECTORS BUT STILL NOTHING


Battery -was tested
Spark & Injector Pulse-checked
Fuel Pressure -checked
MAF -is plugged in & air filter & ducting in place
At least 20 % fuel load in tank
Checked for OBD 2 Codes

Aug 18, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hp gas


Follow gas line from tank to carb. Observe bottom of carb. Remove screw holding carb bowl to carb. Clean bowl. Pinch off gas line with pliers. Ensure float falls down easily. Float up no fuel flow, float down fuel flow. Observe screw that hold carb bowl to carb, see if it has a whole thru it, clean with small wire, bread wrapper works good. Observe center fuel port, clean with wire. Remove pin that holds float and meter needle, clean port with wire. Reassemble. Ensure air filter is clean, oil is full, 30w oil, spark plug is clean and properly gapped. Replace air filter and spark plug once a year. Empty old oil out if any grey is observed in oil, this is moisture, can accumulate after winter storage. Clean out side of carb with carb cleaner to ensure choke can rotate freely. Always use Stabile in gas.
All newer mowers have a low oil shutoff.

May 09, 2013 | Troy Garden

1 Answer

1992 chevy caprice stalled out and died has no spark


needs a tune-up, spark plugs, wires , distributor cap & rotor, fuel filter, air filter, might need coil also, put some drygas in fuel tank, check all vacumn lines, change oil & filter. DO ALL THIS , IT NEEDS IT i'M SURE, THEN YOU'LL BE GOOD TO GOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Feb 05, 2013 | 1992 Chevrolet Caprice

1 Answer

2004 ford f350 diesel starting problems fuel guage reads empty tank is full


crack open an injector line and look for fuel at that point if no fuel there, take off oil filtertype fuel filter and look to see if it has fuel in it..we had a ford f650 superduty that a driver ran empty and were forever bleeding att hthe air out of the system to restart it..on diesels the system can have no air in the lines anywhere..so if the filter is empty, fill it before installing it...saves on the starter getting hot...in extreme cases you can pump pressure into the tank up to 20 psi and force fuel up front be careful on plastic tanks though...good luck and repost please...

Jan 17, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

95 Park Avenue Ultra dies for no reason I can find, I've replaced the crank sensor, cam ssensor, spark module, fuel filter, I've had the injectors tested, fuel pump tested, plugs & wires t


As you have probably figured out by now, you will have to treat it as a no start and troubleshoot it when it fails to start. Until you figure out if you are loosing spark or fuel to the injectors when the engine dies you have no direction to go in.

Aug 20, 2012 | Buick Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Husqvrna hu775h wont start


Suggest start w/ the basics : Air, Fuel, & Spark. Internet search indicates that it's a Briggs & Stratton engine, which I just worked on yesterday (165 cc version). Easiest things first - ensure that there is FRESH fuel in the tank. If it's been sitting there all year, drain it out and refill with new fuel. (make sure you follow mfgr's recommended fuel type.) If you have a primer pump, make sure you can hear fuel flowing when you depress it (typically 3 - 6 pushes to prime the engine). If not, then youi may have a fuel line or fuel filter clogged. If you remove cowling/covering over top of engin, you can get access to the air cleaner. Remove the air cleaner/filter, and you can see into the carbuerator. This should make it easy to see if the primer pump is squirting fuel when depressed. While the air filter is out, make sure it is clean. If gunked up, I usually soak it and wring it out in fresh fuel, then let it air dry to clean it out (mine is made of foam). If it's a cartridge type air filter, blow it out w/ compressed air, or put a new one in if it's dirty. Lastly, if you have an assistant, you can check to see if you're getting a spark. Remove the spark plug, inspect if for correct gap and overall condition - remedy if you see something wrong. Then with it out, connect the spark plug cable (the high voltage line) to the top of the plug. Now, while touching the threaded part of the spark plug to a bare metal part of the engine case or lawnmower chassis, have your helper pull the starter cord and look at the plug's gap for a series of sparks.

If you don't see any sparks jumping the spark plug gap, you may have a bad plug, bad cable, too big a gap, or a bad magneto, or corroded connection to the top of the plug.

If you don't have fuel flow, you may have a clogged fuel line or fuel filter.

Air flow is pretty basic, so with the air cleaner removed, it should be pretty obvious if you have an airflow restriction. You can leave off the air cleaner/filter to troubleshoot the engine and to start it, just don't operate the mower without it, or you risk sucking in junk, rocks, you name it, into your engine.

THis may go without saying, but also inspect all linkages, springs, cables, etc. IF you see something loose or broken, check the owners manual or diagrams and remedy that. Also check out the Troubleshooting section in the owner's maual (available on-line at Husqvarna)

My problem yesterday was very simply BAD, OLD GAS. Briggs & Stratton make a pretty reliable, easy to start lawnmower engine. But even that's not enough if you're feeding it bad or contaminated gas.

Aug 11, 2012 | Garden

1 Answer

Cuisinart espresso maker


One question: have you tried the machine without the porta-filter attached? If it works through an entire cycle without the porta-filter attached, then the porta-filter is clogged. I've lost that special little tool to poke into the hole on the porta-filter, but a fine-tipped needle works just as well. Other pins that I've tried are too thick. Sometimes there's a piece of coffee that has made it through the top part of the filter gets stuck at the single hole that is the exit. Find an appropriate pin and poke around with it, then run WATER only through the filter. If it makes it through a cycle, you've fixed it. This clogging can happen very frequently with too finely ground coffee.

If however, your machine stops and beeps without a filter attached, then there's something restricting the flow inside the machine and your only alternative is vinegar, or similar decalcifier.

Good luck!

May 05, 2012 | Cuisinart EM-200 Espresso Machine

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