JESSOPS 360AFDC ELECTRONIC FLASH KEEP ON THE HUNTING SOUND
I bought last year on 30/12/08 in UK. for my Canon 1000. Yesterday I found my flashgun have problem when I try to switch on the hunting sound came out with only displaying ZOOM A and TTL indication. I did try to change with new battery but it's still have same problem.
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Re: JESSOPS 360AFDC ELECTRONIC FLASH KEEP ON THE HUNTING...
I have also suffered from this problem with Jessops flashes on various
Canon cameras (even EOS 5N film camera) with my current Canon 40d
sometimes the Flash symbol disappears from the view finder display. As
I have two identical Jessops 320AFCs I believe it is to do with battery
power. These guns will only work reliably with Duracell batteries or
equivalent they soon lose the charge otherwise, they will not work at
all with re-chargeables and only for a short while with standard AAs.
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Many flashguns deigned for film cameras - even really expensive ones - will not work with DSLRs.
I have a perfectly good pentax gun that cost me almost £300. It is fanstastic on my TOTR Pentax SLR but will only blat at maximum power on my Pentax DSLR. I had to spend another almost £300 to buy the new gun that will work with all the bells and whistles on my DSLR.
It looks as though Canon work theirs the same way.
It's a known weak point on that model and is typical of ANY similar large, heavy flashgun which mounts via a hotshoe mount which was never designed for such loads.
Unfortunately, the most common type of break cannot be glued or repaired in any neat fashion, but if the wiring is intact a very rough looking but functional repair can be adapted by fastening external metal repair plates using epoxy resin and very short screws. The unit looks dreadful afterwards, and has zero resale value but it usually works and if done correctly the repair lasts the lifetime of the unit.
If you want a neat repair, then the only option is via the factory (often they just dispose of your broken one and send out another new unit). In the camera club which I belong to some members have found it's more cost-effective to sell the broken unit as spares or repairs on an auction website and to then put the funds towards purchase of a more suitable model (either a smaller, lighter, less vulnerable unit, or a proper off-camera hammerhead type unit like all traditional Metz models). One other member found that his credit card gave him accidental damage cover on purchases for up to ninety days (yours is brand new, so worth checking) and another found that her flashgun (not a Metz, but a similar bad design) was covered by her household contents accidental damage policy, but she had to pay the first £90 of the claim.
In case you're wondering, the "bad design" is an intentional compromise. It's simply preferable for the flashgun to break rather than for it to rip the top of your camera off. That's a major disadvantage with the repair option which I mentioned: further knocks simply mean that something more vital gets broken.
Good luck with whatever you choose to do, please take a moment to rate my answer.
I use one of my cams with a sigma 500 DG-ST in a nightclub
ive done 3 of the hot shoe connectors in the last year
look up sigma's website and find the contact info give them a call and they should after some arguing ship you out the parts
every time i have ordered parts they try and get me to send it in for repair even though by the time i am ordering the parts the flashgun is already in bits & i tell them this they keep telling me how dificult it is to do...
for the canon fittment do the following
at the base of the flash remove the 4 screws this removes the bottom section unclip the wireing harness there are 2 screws securing a small metal plate remove them
now there are 4 screws securing the small PCB, remove them, you can now take out the boot from the bottom be careful as the pins and the springs will want to come out pay atention to the locking pin and how its orientated
swap over the broken boot with the replacement then retrace your steps to get it back together
Using Vivitar 3200A flash gun on a DSLR is risky for the following reason. The trigger voltage of a DSLR at flash hot shoe that takes it to its TTL (through the lens) circuit is less than 10 volts, it is about 6 to 8 volts in the recent DSLRs. The trigger voltage generated by Vivitar 3200A at full charge flashing is around 180 volts (max). That is a fatal dose for a sensitive DSLR TTL circuit. This high voltage flash gun will work endlessly, the only damage is to the TTL flash circuit. When you attach a TTL flash to the DSLR after using Vivitar 3200A for sometime, your TTL flash will not communicate with your camera. It will be just another ordinary flash without any auto functions. There is a Wein adapter that you can fix b/w your cameral hot shoe and the vivitar flash gun that is said to reduce the trigger voltage that passes into the camera. Try it if you get it. Without this gadget it is better not to use non recommended and non TTL flashes on latest DSLRs.
If one cell has died, there will be enough power to power up the flash, but not enough to charge it reasonably fast. It may also stop the other cells charging up properly if they are charged together. I've had this problem with poor quality rechargeables before. I think flashguns put pretty heavy demands on batteries.