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What side does the live wire go onto the heating element on a hotpiont aqualtis washer

What side does the live wire go onto the heating element?

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Please check this link for tips to check on the element:
click on: Heating element

Posted on Jan 21, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


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Dryer not heating

Check Heating elements if ok check the in line fuse that go to drying element and if it open replace it and clean filter and check pipe that blow out side make sure it not stop up because if in line fuse is open stop up filter and pipe that blow air out side will cause the heating element in fuse to open up. And check for lose wire going to element to.

May 30, 2014 | Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer

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How do you replace the heater coil on this unit

First of all you did not even begin to mention a model number. They are not all the same. Having said that the concept of changing a heating element is pretty much the same for those with through the lower tub mounts.

1. Turn off all power to the unit
2. Open the lower kick panel
(It is usually in 2 pieces) The top piece being fixed and the lower piece being adjustable to the floor. Remove BOTH panels.
3. Locate the 2 heating element terminals that pass through the bottom of the tub and disconnect the wires.
4. Losen the retaining nuts on the heating element. Push up on the elment to make sure it is free before totally removing the nuts.
5. Remove the nuts and then lift out the old element by opening the door and lifting out the element.
6. Note the position of seals and washers on the OLD element
7, Assemble the new element with the tub side seals and washers. Leave the under side washers off until after you place the new element in the dishwasher.
8. Install the underside seal and washer then install the nuts loosely.
9. Check the position of the element inside the tub. (Align as necessary)
10. Tighten the heating element retaining nuts on the under side of the tub. (DO NOT over tighten as you can damage the element.)
11. Install the 2 heating element terminals makeing very sure the connections are TIGHT. A loose connection will cause the new element to fail prematurely.
12. Connect power and test for leaks.
13 Leak test complete install both lower kick panels.

Task Complete!

Thanks for choosing FixYa,


Oct 04, 2010 | Kenmore Dishwashers

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Hello there:
Here is some Helpful troubleshooting tips i have made up for you
Hope this is very helpful for you.

If the element looks good, then we progress to basic electrical measurements (hint: that’s an illustrative link put there for your edumucation– read it now). Y’see, Hoss, incredibly, the element can look fine from the outside (and usually does) but the inner core, the part that electricity flows through and gets really hot, can be electrically open. So, we’ll start with a simple resistance measurement of the bake heating element. To do this, you have kill power to the oven and then remove the visible and obvious element retaining screws. Then remove at least one wire from the element; you can, of course, remove the entire element from the oven, as shown in the picture (click for larger view). You’ll be making the measurements with your probes on the element’s terminals.
Measure the resistance with your meter; anything less than 50 ohms is good. If you’re seeing a high resistance reading, like something in the thousands of ohms (denoted with the “K” on most meters) then, ding-ding-ding, you just found the problem– come git you a new element.
If the element tests good, then it’s time to graduate to live tests. That means voltage on the circuit, fire in the hole, fry yo’ ace if’n you ain’t careful. If you don’t know how to safely make live voltage measurements, then stop reading right now and call a professional appliantologist. You’ll also need the wiring or schematic diagram of the oven– these are usually hidden inside the control panel compartment, some disassembly required. Make sure you’ve killed power to the oven before going any further, Homer.
Before we get into the actual live test, it would helpful for you to know how the bake element works so you’ll have some insight into how the live test is done. A bake element operates at 240vac, 120vac is supplied to each side of the heating element. One side is tied more or less directly to L1 or L2 (both of which are tied to 120vac)– see your model-specific wiring diagram, I’m just ’splaining the strategery here.
The other side of the heating element is connected to the electronic range control either directly or through some intermediary controls. (Antique, RV, or off-grid ranges may not have an ERC but rather a mechanical thermostat. Ahh, those were the days…)
Now, here’s where the real strategery comes in. The basic idea is that when the bake element is turned on, BOTH sides of that element should get 120vac (remember, the element is supposed to have 240vac to heat up properly). So we’re going to split the problem in half by seeing which side of the bake element power circuit isn’t coughing up its 120vac. Then we shall deal harshly with its insolence.
218_a1.thumbnail.jpgOk, are you ready to rock or are you ready to shock? If you’re still rockin’, here’s how we do the live test:
  • kill power to the oven (which you already did earlier, right? icon_wink.gif );
  • disconnect one wire from the bake element and then secure it so it doesn’t touch anything else
  • clip the common side of your meter to any known ground point, like an unpainted metal surface in the oven;
  • re-apply power to the oven;
  • measure voltage at both of the element power wire leads;
  • the one that isn’t giving you 120vac is the circuit you need to troubleshoot; you can ignore the other side.
See, you just cut the problem in half! Now kill power to the oven again and focus your keen, Vulcan-like squinties on the wiring diagram and locate your problem circuit. Then identify the next component in line between the end of the heating element wire with the missing voltage and wherever it ends up, be it the circuit board or one of the power lugs on the terminal block in the back of the oven. The rest is trivial. Continue applying this essential kata until you find the missing voltage in that circuit.

Dec 11, 2009 | Whirlpool Ovens

1 Answer

F-08 error message on Hotpoint Washing machine WT761? The original fault on the machine was that it was tripping out and taking out a resetable fuse in my fuse box a few seconds after turning the machine...

If it works fine with the heater off then i would say that fault appears to be element..the readings you get seem okay, put you meter onto megs and check, with wires off if you get electrical leakage between live and earth...Body....of element, it could be element is heating with no water in machine causing it to burn out..this is a problem with this machine...Wish you well

Oct 07, 2009 | Hotpoint Aquarius WF220 Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Lower Heat Element in Kenmore Oven

Hey- Disconnect power. pull back cover to access wires for element. Re-connect wires and loosely re-position insulation. Reinstall back cover and chk operation.- Hope this helps- ED

Oct 07, 2009 | Kenmore 73053 Gas Kitchen Range

1 Answer

Dryer does not heat and continues to run/will not shut itself off

This is probably due to a faulty heating element, something the average do-it-yourselfer can replace. Disconnect the power supply, then refer to the owner's manual for procedures to remove the front panel from your specific model. If your dryer has a toe-kick plate in front, that's all that needs to be removed.

1)Locate the heating element heat shield, a box on the lower right side of the dryer.
2)Using a screwdriver, pull the two screws at the front of the heat shield. Remove the front of the heat shield or, if it is on a hinge, flip it down.
3)Remove the wire leads from the heating element terminals by pulling on the leads. To avoid damaging the wires, do not grab them when you pull off the leads.
4)Remove the holding screw on the side of the heat shield that connects to the heating element.
5)Remove the heating element by sliding it out of the heat-shield box. Install a new heating element and secure it to the heat shield with the holding screw on the side.
6)Reconnect the wire leads to the new heating element by pushing them onto the terminals. Place the heat shield front cover back into position and secure it with the mounting screws.
7)Replace the front panel or toe-kick plate and reconnect the power supply to the dryer.

Aug 28, 2009 | Frigidaire Dryers

1 Answer

Have a Hotpiont condenser dryer and the drum is live. (gives me an electric shock when touched) Please help .

Moist or water on the heater element is most common. Dismount heater cover dry out, then plug in and try. Or loose cable touching the chassie.

Jul 15, 2009 | Hotpoint Dryers

1 Answer

The heating element won't get hot? Each wire to the element is getting 110v, but when checked together i am not getting 220v to the element?

Hi: 220 volts to a dryer are two 110 volts combined. Two separate wires. Did you check the heating element? See if it's broken. If so replace it. FIRST, Another thing to check is your circuit breaker. If it has only one side blown you will show 110 volts but that's all the dryer will get and dry slowly. The washer will still work as it's only 110v. I hopes this helps, Jeff

Jun 07, 2009 | Kenmore 88752 Top Load Stacked Washer /...

1 Answer

Need service for Malber 1000 heating element..

Hi. Mike here. I repair Malbers in the Washington D.C. area. The most likely problem is not the heating element, but the hi-temp (or "brown") thermostat. They cost about $25 and are very simple to install. A "Torx 1.5" screwdriver (asterisk tip) removes two screws, in back, holding top on. Lift off top, and (from the front) see silver-foil-wrapped heating assy. At lower right will be a small philips screw holding a thin wire "hasp" which holds the thermostat in place. Remove screw and hasp (without dropping in machine!), unplug two "quiik-connect" lugs (orange & red wires) and pull out thermostat to the right. New one slips right back in. Replace wires, hasp, phillips screw and top -and you're done! This is 90% sure to fix. The heating element is only about 5% likely.
One last thing ... when re-inserting new thermostat, you'll have to "wrestle" with it a bit, as the tip needs to slip into a tiny (hard to "find") hole. Keep trying, and eventually it'll fit ALL the way in, so the hasp can hold it. To purchase part, call Joel (at Malber): 800-600-8913
Oh yeah, one MORE last thing... That red wire may be burnt a little, or completely burnt in two. Radio Shack and Home Depot sell "crimp-on" lugs (1/4") like these (female). Trim back the wire, crimp a new lug on the end, and push it back onto lower terminal on thermostat. If wire is too short, of course, add a few inches of 16 guage "stranded" (lamp cord). The same stores also sell tubular "crimp-on" wire-connectors (little blue tubes) to join the old and new wires. May God bless.

Mar 02, 2009 | Malber WD1000 Front Load Washer/Dryer

1 Answer

Faulty washing machine

if its no heat there only 2 items it can be heater element or the thermostats u could test the element by replacing the plugged in wires with wires that hasve a plug on place the wires into right places turn the plug on and if the element works it will start to glow turn it off as soon as u see it glowing from the inside of the washer also u can check the thermostats by dropping them into hot water and u should hear them pop

Nov 18, 2008 | Washing Machines

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