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Check 20 amp fuse on engine. Check for 12V at the "yellow/red" lead on the engine's solenoid when turning key to start position. If no power, key switch or wiring problem. If voltage present, check for 12V at both large terminals on the same solenoid. If voltage present, most likely the starter motor. Lightly tap the starter with hammer to see if the armature brushes are sticking.
You may want to check service bulletin #2002-052. Some of these motors
supply too much voltage to the trim switch at the throttle lever and
that trim switch stops working. There is an add-on harness #586806 that
fixes this. If you can still tilt and trim the motor at the trim switch
that is built into the motor housing this is likely the problem.
Hi, Just got this question and am looking through the manual. Have you checked for power at the key and after the key on the switch. How about all your inline fuses have you checked these as well? Is there any voltage showing on the DVO?
It seems like the ignition key is suspect and needs to be replaced. The ignition could be preventing voltgae to the stator and ignition coils. See if you have battery voltage from the terminals on the ignition switch by using a voltmeter. If there is voltage from the ignition switch, yoy may have a bad stator that is causing a no spark condition.
I am going to try to help you although I have never seen a similar motor. If you have several cylinders that work, aren't some of the components the same? You could switch components and trace the defective part that way. I.E. if #2 and #5 are dead and you switch components to make #1 and #6 dead you will know. Also if the peak voltage reading test is something you can do, you would not have voltage without continuity. You said you lost fire so you would not be able to measure ohms or resistance with a break in the circuit anyway. Hope this helps you.
Your trim switch is either out of adjustment, broke, or you have a bad wire. The gauge should not be the problem. If the wires on the trim switch are accessible you should be able to check the Ohms with the power off, or the Voltage with the power on.
Either way they should vary when you move the switch. If you can not test the wires at the switch you will have to remove the wires from the gauge and test the wire ends under the dash. They have a helper move the switch by the motor.
Well you need a voltage tester for automobiles or 12 volt systems. The black wire should be hooked to a good ground. Test the wires on the back of the switch for your nav lights. If you have voltage there then you should test each of the light sockets. If you have voltage at switch but not at the light sockets then you need to trace the wires and find a bad spot or replace them. If no power to light switch you need to identify the hot lead (positive) and try to trace it back to the battery. Somewhere there should be a fuse. Need to test the fuse. An ohm meter would be handy to use in troubleshooting this. You not only need to ensure that the positive lead is good but the ground lead also. I"m not sure what kind of boat you have but for instance if it is fiberglass then the boat can't act as a ground. A seperate ground wire has to be run to both lights as well. I'm guessing since both lights don't work that the problem is between the battery and the switch. There almost has to be an inline fuse somewhere. Don't rely on just looking at the fuse. Sometimes they don't look burnt but are. Check the fuses with an ohm meter.
It should be a bad ignition switch or your ignition wire has a fuse in it. The start post terminal behind the switch energizes both the starter and the ignition circuit. When you release the key, the switch transfers the power to the ignition terminal behind the switch.
WHAT YOU WANT TO DO, is pull the ignition switch down to where you can get at it. Then pull the ignition wire off the switch and put on the jumper wire you used at the battery(to the coil).
If the engine runs after cranking you have problems with the original ignition wire(fuse). If the engine will not run, the terminal at the switch is dead and you need a new switch.
the wires may be correct you need to make sure all the fuses are good they will be held in little rubber black cylinders on the engines they will be long glass fuses if any possitve touched a ground it would have blown a fuse so check them first then make sure when you push your choke it is working have someone stand by the motor to make sure i belive that is what the blue wire is to there may be a fuse by the battery as well the solid red is your power supply look at your starter solenoid and see what wire is your acc. wire as well but the blue wire should be a hot for something and i need to know what the wire colors are from the harness if there all the same but the blue
use a volt meter and check for voltage at the plug, if none..check in the back near your batterys and locate the circuit breaker and reset it ...basic system = battery-breaker-wires....hope this helps ....GL