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Re: The compressor only reach 50 PSI.
Does the compressor continue to run but not build more pressure? In which case it is an air leak most likely, or does the compressor shut off at 50 PSI? In which case it is mose likely the pressure switch. If it is an air leak you can un-screw the guage and coat with putty or teflon tape and reinstall to clog the leak around the threads..
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The operation of that compressor is that the pressure switch will open when it reaches its set pressure, usually about 125 psi. when the switch opens and the motor comes to a stop the little valve on the side of the switch is meant to unload the pump head of pressure for the next start up. the pressure in the head and the tube leading to the tank is what is relieved, to prevent tank pressure leaking back there is a check valve where the discharge line enters the tank. what it sounds like is that check valve is not closing when the pump stops, and should be replaced.
Look for massive air leaks all around the machine including the safety 'blow-off' valve. The compressor diaphragm may have a hole in it. If this machine is new, return it to the dealer and get your money back or at least get it repaired under warranty. Good luck!
The air leak you have described is probably from the unloader valve which may not be seating after it dumps cylinder pressure. If you can find a good manual for it, disassemble the unloader valve and check for contaminates or build up around the seat. The differential spring may have lost it's value also, in which case you will need to replace the unloader assembly.
You prolly have a leaky gasket in the main valve. Air is leaking and causeing it not to go about 60psi, you probably have it set to reach a high PSI but since the leak is not allowing it reach above 60 it keeps cycling trying to get above it
There is a fairly simple mechanism that turns the pump off when the pressure reaches a set limit,and turns the pump back on again when the pressure drops below another set point.The motor is controlled by a switch that is actuated in one way,or the other by a diaphragm.The actuator may be disconnected from the switch,the switch may be bad(stuck in the closed position),or the diaphragm may have a hole,or tear in it.You can try removing the switch,and seeing if it will open,and close manually(If not replace the switch).If the switch is good,and the connection between the diaphragm,and switch seem intact you probably have a damaged diaphragm.It could be difficult to detect because of the pressure involved.(You may not be able to tell its leaking by blowing on it). One possible test would be to make a solution of soapy water,and spray,or apply it to the diaphragm parts in some other way,And look for a leak that way(look for growing bubbles)(Be careful with live electrical parts!)
Painting requires lots of air! I want my compressor to have a MINIMUM 10 gallons or more capacity and provide 6-7 CFM at 90 PSI. The duty rating should be at least 50%. Many compressor have a label on them showing what uses they are well suited for. Start with the gun, the air requirements are usually printed on the packaging, use those as minimums! Good luck!
Everything I read in the owners manual suggest you take unit in for a trained service tech to repair. It could possibly be a few things causing this but from what I can see there are not that many replaceable repairable parts for this. Good luck
Most air pressure regulator knobs work like a "child-proof" cap on a medicine vial. It has a spring inside that keeps it dis-engaged from the tooth like gears inside. To turn the knob you must first pull out or push in the knob. You should feel some resistance from the spring inside. As you pull, you will feel the knob seat into the "teeth" inside. Then you can turn the knob and change the air pressure supplied. Note: most air regulator valves work in the opposite manner of regular water valves. Turning the knob clockwise should increase the air pressure... counter clockwise should decrease the pressure.
I hope this solution will bring you success. Best Regards, Michael Mittelsdorf
Portable air compressors give flexibility to the job both inside and outside the working environment. They're powered by electric, gasoline or diesel engine. A larger portable air compressor often has its own carrying trailer with wheels and handles. You buy a compressor based on its horsepower, pounds per square inch (PSI) and cubic feet per minute (CFM). Choose a portable air compressor to make work quicker and easier. Figure the amount of power you need based on the type of job and air tools used. Know the cubic feet per minute (CFM), such as 5 CFM for small household tools and 10 CFM or more for wrenches or sanders. All air tools have these ratings. Select a gas- or electric-powered engine. Gas gives a higher reliability for frequent use and portability, but consider electric for enclosed areas for its lack of fumes. Pick an air tank based on amount of use time and tools. Large tanks are best for longer use with sanders or grinders and smaller tanks for less time, like wrenches and air hammers. Consider the pump type you need: belt for heavy use or direct-drive for light home use. The quieter belt-drive pump needs periodic oil changes. Buy an inexpensive, small electric portable air compressor for small jobs. These typically operate from a 12-volt power outlet and inflate a 14-inch tire in a few minutes. Get a 150 PSI, 120 volt motor pancake-type air compressor for home use. These light-use models typically carry two air couplers, allowing hook up of two air tools and adequate 25 feet or more air hose. Obtain a larger PSI portable air compressor for bigger jobs, like nailing, with longer continuous use capabilities.