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Geberit toilet cistern replacement diaphragm valve required

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 2712 Answers

SOURCE: How to Install Toilet

It's not terribly complicated, assuming that by "install a new toilet" you mean where there was alredy an existing toilet. First, remove the old toilet. Shut off the water supply valve, and flush the toilet. Then use a spone to get rid of the water that remains in the tank. Remove the nuts on the two bolts at the base of the toilet where the toilet meets the floor. These are usually hidden under two plastic caps. Now gently rock the toilet until it comes away from the floor. Get help to carry it out. Clean up the old wax that's around the flange where the pipe disappears into the floor. Don't be a wuss, it's only wax. Now you'll need the new toilet, a new supply line, new mounting bolts (don't reuse the old ones) and a two wax rings. Yes, I said two wax rings. You'll see why in a minute. Assemble the new toilet according to the instructions provided. Now here's a warning: Do NOT overtighten the bolts the hod the tank to the bowl. You're dealing with ceramics here, don't break them. Now, put the new hold-down bolts in place on the flange. Read the insturctions that came with the toilet, but you have to do this NOW. Now you'll need a helper. With the toilet upsided down, unwrap a wax ring. Make sure it's room temprature or it won't seal. Press the wax ring around the outlet flange on the base of the toilet. Now you and your helper carefully turn the toilet over without crushing the wax ring. Lift the toilet and slowly lowe it so the wax ring is centered over the "flange" which is where the sewer pipe goes into the foor. Then press the toilet firmly in place. Now if you're like most people, you screwed up here and crushed the wax ring without being centered on the flange. That's why I told you to buy two. Now you know what not to do, scrape off the first one and start again. When you've got the toilet sealed on the flange, connect and tighten the nuts on the bolts. Now you may have to use a hacksaw to cut off the remaining ends of the bolts so you can get the neat little plastic caps to fit. Now connect the water supply line. Now's where you start praying. Turn on the water and let the tank fill. Check the supply line for leaks. Fix as necessary. Now flush. Is water running out from around the base of the toilet? No? Good, you got a good seal. Yes? Very bad. Time to go back to the home center for yet another wax ring. Repeat the sealing process and get a good seal this time.

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

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  • 16 Answers

SOURCE: toilet cistern doesn't fill up

it sounds like one or more of your shut off valves has a glog from hard water calcium. were from indiana its a big problem here.To check this u will have to shut off main water supply and remove top of shut off valve and check for white crusty blockage, even if u see a few particals its present. It can severely restrict flow.

Posted on May 03, 2009

olddewsons
  • 38 Answers

SOURCE: Villeroy Boch subway toilet cistern filling up to much

On this model am not sure if it come apart. But if you have a air compressure try and blow though it. when you have it off toilet. sounds like its dirt caught in it.
hope this helped. :)

Posted on Jul 07, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my toilet cistern is continually hissing

Hi I have exactly the same problem, in fact it could have been me writing this - 3 toliets fine, main bathroom hisses. The Geberit flushing ciphen on the left (the smaller one) has been replaced and there is still a problem. If you look carefully,the water level needs to come up over the lip of an opening on the Geberit part and this causes the valve mechanism to shut off and stop the hissing. It is fine for about 40 minutes and then the hissing starts again if you don't flush it. The reason is that the water level has gone down but there is no obvious signs of where the water is going. It could be that the central flush mechanism is leaking slightly. I am going to replace this part next. If I were you I'd see if you are getting any water leakage into the pan when toilet not in use to see if the water level in the cistern is going down James T

Posted on Oct 31, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: cistern leak

The flapper valve(ball)seat is not sealing. Needs a new seat and flapperat bottom of tank. -Ned-

Posted on May 26, 2010

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Hi I have a geberit cistern 222.013.00.1 with hissing noises and tank keeps topping up occasionally


wait for the new washer/ valve to settle in
or turn down the inlet water tap a bit

what does this really mean
tank topping up with water and re filling occasionally


in the wrong way or too tight or the wrong part ?

26347492-ienhbta22ii2alptronxtyf0-3-0.jpg

Nov 09, 2016 | Home

Tip

FIXING A TOILET THAT WILL NOT FLUSH!!! a simple but very effective money saving...


This simple how to, is based upon most lever operated toilets, with the cistern mounted above the toilet bowl. The make and model of toilet used for this feature is of the following:
Toilet and internal syphon
DUDLEY ELITEDudley S7 Cascade syphon
Problem:
My toilet will not flush, but the ball float valve is working and there is water in the cistern; no leaks present and the flushing lever is not broken or disconnected, what do I do?
Answer:
first isolate the water to the toilet or the main water supply to the house. Bail out the water from the cistern using a small jug or cup, (or you can syphon the water manually using a hosepipe or similar pipe, a towel to cover your mouth, and either a bucket or the toilet bowl) and remove water from the bottom of the cistern with a sponge.


Changing the syphon in a toilet that is not close coupled is far easier as you do not need to remove the cistern from the wall!


Undo the lower of the two large nuts beneath the cistern using a large pipe wrench or pair of water pump pliers, now disconnect the flush pipe and push it to one side.
Place a bucket or bowl beneath the cistern and undo the Nut which is immediately below the cistern (syphon replacing nut), some water may be released by the syphon, take note of any washers that are removed as new ones need fitting when replacing the siphon.
Unhook the lift rod from the flushing lever and remove the syphon.


Inside the toilet syphon, there will be a small plastic piece of sheet called a diaphragm; you can fabricate a replacement using the plastic title cover on a DVD case. Cut this to the exact same size and shape as the original part, and fit this to where the original diaphragm was. This is your new replacement.


Refitting is a complete reversal of removal, be sure to fit any washers (preferably new ones) that you have taken out. Ensure everything is tight but do not over tighten before refilling the cistern



on Aug 09, 2010 | Plumbing

1 Answer

Where to buy parts for Fowler toilet cistern .


adjust the float
you are looking for the inlet valve or diaphragm

not as much fowler out here as caroma system parts

ebay
large hardware stores
plumber

26333055-py5i4o5vftt3pvwug2gyetgw-1-0.jpg

Oct 30, 2016 | Home

1 Answer

Caroma toilet 12years old, concealed cistern. Water leaking around base when toilet is flushed. water level maintained when not flushing, so the leak must be between the cistern and the bowl. Had a plumber...


Fixing a leaky toilet is actually rather simple, requiring few tools and just a little time and effort. In looking at Caroma toilets on Google, they appear to be just a standard type of unit, and should present few if any problems for yourself or any handyman of modest skill.

If it is leaking around the base of the toilet - where the toilet sits on the floor, the repair item is a simple wax seal. Here is a tutorial to effect this repair: Replace Toilet Wax Ring. The wax ring is very inexpensive, usually $5 to $10 USD.

If the water is leaking from between the tank (cistern) and the toilet bowl, the job is even easier, as it does not require lifting and moving the entire toilet. A good tutorial for that repair is here: How to Replace Tank to Bowl Gasket . The gaskets, new nuts, bolts and rubber seals come in a kit and also cost only $5 to $10 USD.

I am sorry to hear your Plumber insisted you buy an entire new toilet, but do remember he is in the business of making money!

Jan 28, 2014 | Home

1 Answer

Toilet squeels at end of water filling in cistern


Bad valve. Probably replace the assembly.unless you know how to replace the diaphragm in the assembly.

Jan 14, 2013 | Porcher Home

1 Answer

How do you adjust the fill level for a geberit fors inlet valve


A "Geberit FORS Inlet Valve" is not a dishwasher part. It is a fill valve made for a toilet cistern. You adjust it by removing the valve, removing the blue "locking clip" on the lower part of the valve body, then rotating the valve body to make it longer/shorter (and hence raise/lower the height of the large float body on the side of the valve). Once done, reinsert the lock clip, and reinstall the valve in the toilet tank. You can see how to adjust it at this link
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VU2W_zxgGKM

Jul 04, 2012 | Home

1 Answer

Replacement part for VitrA cistern


I trust you mean the "Flapper Valve". They are available and most hardware stores.
Get a Universal type as they fit most units. Take the old one with you. If you turn the water off at the wall it will stop it from running while you're away

Nov 26, 2009 | VitrA Aria Toilet with Elongated Bowl/...

2 Answers

After cistern refill outflow into toilet bowl continues to dribble in - and you can see a slight flow into the bowl and every so often we hear the cistern refilling a small amount to compensate.


hi i would suggest your ball valve in the cistern needs ajusting remove the top of the cistern you will see the ajustment screw at the end fo the ball **** arm hope this helps

Nov 15, 2009 | Duravit 0910100005 Happy D Toilet Cistern ...

2 Answers

My toilet cistern is continually hissing


Hi I have exactly the same problem, in fact it could have been me writing this - 3 toliets fine, main bathroom hisses. The Geberit flushing ciphen on the left (the smaller one) has been replaced and there is still a problem. If you look carefully,the water level needs to come up over the lip of an opening on the Geberit part and this causes the valve mechanism to shut off and stop the hissing. It is fine for about 40 minutes and then the hissing starts again if you don't flush it. The reason is that the water level has gone down but there is no obvious signs of where the water is going. It could be that the central flush mechanism is leaking slightly. I am going to replace this part next. If I were you I'd see if you are getting any water leakage into the pan when toilet not in use to see if the water level in the cistern is going down James T

Oct 17, 2009 | Duravit Starck 3 Wall Mounted Toilet with...

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