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Weatherking Short Cycling

I have a weatherking model 80PJ10ECR01 that is short cycling. I have eliminated the thermostat as the source of the problem. Also, I have a clean air filter, and all of the registers are open. Is there anything else a do-it-yourself guy can look at before spending money - that he doesn't have - on a service tech.

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  • 6 more comments 
  • dmaletin Jan 26, 2009

    The system usually resets itself immediately after shutting down. Once in a while however, it stays off for about five minutes before turning on again. It's currently 10 degrees outside and the system has been cycling all day, never making it past 68 degrees. I will go outside right now to check the vent pipe. Is there a way to diagnose whether the system shuts down due to the heat exchanger overheating?

  • dmaletin Jan 26, 2009

    The furnace has been working fine since it was installed six years ago. I checked the control board and observed three blinks followed by a two second pause which indicates "limit switch is open". Not sure what this means.

  • Anonymous Jan 27, 2009

    Okay, I think we may be getting close to diagnosing the problem. I did however leave out one very important piece of information; the filter was not installed properly. When I initially opened the unit, I saw that the filter had completely fallen out of place. My guess is that the furnace was operating for at least two years WITHOUT A FILTER! I immediately installed a new one, but I'm afraid that the damage has already been done.So taking this into consideration, I imagine that the next steps we take are ones that focus on things that could be "dirty". Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • dmaletin Jan 27, 2009

    Okay, I think we may be getting close to diagnosing the problem. I did
    however leave out one very important piece of information; the filter
    was not installed properly. When I initially opened the unit, I saw
    that the filter had completely fallen out of place. My guess is that
    the furnace was operating for at least two years WITHOUT A FILTER! I
    immediately installed a new one, but I'm afraid that the damage has
    already been done.So taking this into consideration, I imagine that the
    next steps we take are ones that focus on things that could be "dirty".
    Thanks for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • dmaletin Jan 29, 2009

    Okay, I have some time again today to address my furnace problem. First of all, the unit is an up flow and yes, the problem indeed is
    getting to the coil. I made a small opening in the front of the plenum,
    peeked inside, and saw what was probably the front panel of the coil
    unit. If the "blanket" is on the underside of the coil, then I have no idea how I will get to it. If it's on the outside, then that will be a little easier. Something tells me however that this won't be easy. Thanks again!!!

  • dmaletin Jan 29, 2009

    Okay, I will work on removing the plates. But before I do that, it would be nice to know that the coils are typically just resting on top of the furnace and are NOT fastened into place with nuts/bolts/screws. I would hate to open everything up only to discover I can't simply lift the coil up to gain access to the inside. The furnace is in a very tight space so the thought of trying to maneuver screwdrivers or wrenches inside of the plenum is kind of scary.

  • dmaletin Jan 30, 2009

    Well I don't know who you are, or even how I found you to begin with, but you just saved me hundreds of dollars. The furnace is fixed!!!! I haven't worked all week because of our slow economy, and so I figured that if I can't make money, then maybe I can do something to save money. Mission accomplished. Thank you so much for your help!!!!

  • Mark Egan May 11, 2010

    Check that the vent pipe and cap are in good shape, and that critters have not built a nest in the cap of top of the pipe somehow.

    Do you have to reset the trip, or does it reset itself and cycle again?


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  • Master
  • 1,214 Answers

You make a good point about overheating on heat exchanger temp.

Since you don't have to reset anything for it to recycle, then I assume you have one of the newer forced draft furnaces.

There should be leds on the control board inside the furnace compartment that will blink a code to you, telling what the shutdown reason was. Blinks and code should be on a label inside the blower door panel, or inside the control box cover.

Let me know what they are, and I can give you more direction. I am assuming this furnace worked at some point, and no changes have been made (including closing of duct vents).

Posted on Jan 26, 2009

  • 3 more comments 
  • Mark Egan Jan 27, 2009

    The limit switch is probably the high limit switch at the heat exchanger (there is only one anyway). There should be a diagram which shows you where the limit switch is located.

    I would be suspect of things in the following order -

    Blower not coming up to speed or starting soon enough
    Dirty filters
    Dirty blower wheel (cupped fins of wheel loaded with dirt, hair, lint)
    Dirty evaporator downstream of the furnace (because of dirty or improperly installed filters)
    Closed or collapsed inlet duct.
    Closed or restricted supply air ducts or supply air registers in the conditioned space.
    Bad limit switch.
    Failed heat exchanger

    Let me know what your seeing and I can shed more light on this.


  • Mark Egan Jan 27, 2009

    You hit the nail on the head!

    So, if you can feel a heavy buildup of dirt on the blower blades, then chances are pretty goof the evap is plugged up. Beauty of this is, it'll be easy to clean once you get to it, because the furnace has dried the "blanket" of dirt out, and it should just pull right off.

    But the problem is getting to it.

    Is this an up flow unit (in a closest), down flow unit (in a closet), or horizontal unit (in an attic)?

    If up flow, you may be able to remove the front panels and slide the coil out far enough to reach up inside to grab the blanket and pull it out.

    Same with a down flow, except it may be easier to reach the topside.

    If horizontal, is there a plenum transition between the furnace and the evaporator. If so, get some metal cutters and cut a piece out of it big enough to get your hand and arm into. Reach in, grab the blanket, and pull out, being careful not to rip your arm open on the sharp edges.

    In any case, be very careful not to break, crack or kink either of the two copper lines coming from the outside of the coil. If you do, you will need to have the break fixed, the unit evacuated, and recharged, which can get expensive.

    You should need a coil comb if the stuff comes out as a blanket, and I've never worried with using a coil cleaner on something like this. It will eventually clean itself when the A/C comes on (condensate washes the coil).

    Once you get the coil clean, put everything back together, sealing with foil tape. Don't just use any type of foil tape. You MUST use the expensive stuff, that you can get at Home Depot, that has a UL listing mark on it (look inside the coil of the roll, or on the markings outside. Should say UL 723 on it somewhere. Anything else is a waste of money and ultimately energy.

    Chances are, if you've had the A/C unit serviced anytime in the past couple of years, then the unit is undercharged (if it has an expansion valve.). But you will need to wait unitl it get's hot to determine this.


  • Mark Egan Jan 29, 2009

    Your totally correct, it's not going to be easy.

    What you saw through the hole you made was the blanking plate on the end of the evaporator.. You are going tot have to remove the plate or plates (they are usually pieced together) that you made the hole in. You cannot remove or cut a hole in the plate that you saw inside, or you'll screw up the airflow.

    Once you remove the front cover plate, then you may be able to slide the coil out barely enough that you can get your hand up inside to pull the blankets out. The blankets will be on the bottom side of the coil (think about the air (and dirt/dust) travel direction.).

    Let me know what you find.

    Sorry to put you through this effort, but I'm 99% certain this will be the problem.


  • Mark Egan Jan 29, 2009

    99.99% of the time, the col just slides into place in the "coil box"which is the box that your taking the front off of. It's hard to bolt or screw the coil in, because there are no tabs to attach it with higher up, and if they put screws through the bottom, they would have drilled through the condensate drain pan. That would have made a mess at some point.

    Be very care not to bend or crimp the copper refrigerant lines as you do this. You only need to pull the coil out enough to look up inside, and to get your arm in there.

    You may need to remove the vent pipe from the furnace too. Just be suer you replace it correctly when you put everything back together.

  • Mark Egan Jan 30, 2009

    Hey, what can I say. It's a business i live, and have not practiced in for over 15 years.

    Thanks for the using FixYa, and thanks for the "atta boys"!.


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