I have a weatherking model 80PJ10ECR01 that is short cycling. I have eliminated the thermostat as the source of the problem. Also, I have a clean air filter, and all of the registers are open. Is there anything else a do-it-yourself guy can look at before spending money - that he doesn't have - on a service tech.
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Re: Weatherking Short Cycling
You make a good point about overheating on heat exchanger temp.
Since you don't have to reset anything for it to recycle, then I assume you have one of the newer forced draft furnaces.
There should be leds on the control board inside the furnace compartment that will blink a code to you, telling what the shutdown reason was. Blinks and code should be on a label inside the blower door panel, or inside the control box cover.
Let me know what they are, and I can give you more direction. I am assuming this furnace worked at some point, and no changes have been made (including closing of duct vents).
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Is zone 6 only in program C? If so, it's simply telling you that the current draw is beyond the controller's capacity which I believe is either 1 or 1-1/4 Amp. In which case the Valve solenoid may be shorted. If Zone 6 is also set to run in any other Programs and does not indicate a short, then the Controller likely is at fault.
You can do some troubleshooting by looking at the glass fuse after it has failed. If the element looks melted and there is no other discoloration, then the fuse probably blew as a result of an overload somewhere. If the fuse is burned black, then it's probably a short in the system.
You can meter the motors to see if they are shorted anywhere or open.
It sounds like you may be correct about the circuit board.
I just looked at the exploded drawing for the Manatee. It looks like a very simple heater. The heater will simply come on whenever the pump is running and the thermostat says that the tub is not hot enough. So, for the heater, set it and forget it.
The adjustment you can make is by setting the low-speed pump timer. There should be a timer on the control box, somewhere. Generally, you set the timer to come on for a couple of hours, twice a day. During those times, the pump will come on low-speed and the heater will come on as needed.
Keep in mind that the tub will only heat when the pump is running so you will want to set the timer so that the tub has been running for at least an hour when you will be ready to use it.
Most controls will also allow you to put the pump on thermostat control, usually with a switch (timer/ t-stat). By running on t-stat control, the low-speed pump and heater will turn on whenever the temperature drops a couple of degrees.
Timer control is usually more efficient for two reasons:
1. The tub doesn't heat water when you don't need it (like while you are sleeping or at work).
2. The pump isn't cycling on and off all day and night. Cycling is not very efficient.
Tip: If you want to soak when the tub isn't hot, just turn the pump on for 10 minutes or so before you get in. That is a pretty big heater, and unless you have very poor insulation or a worn-out cover, the temp shouldn't drop too fast.
Another tip: The best way to save money on a tub is to maintain your pH. Check it EVERY WEEK! Incorrect pH will shorten the life of your heater and seals. One service call would have paid for a lot of electricity.
We had the same problem with the same furnace, CODE 32 DISPLAYED ON THE LEDS. I fixed it by cutting the air inlet pipe and using a hair dryer to supply heated combustion air to the furnace. Once I did that it started to run more and more until it finally heated the house up and works fine, so far so good.
We had a severe drop in temps, sunday it was 40 and rain and that night it dropped to -5 I suspect those conditions contributed to the problem. Wife observed this has never occurred before in 14 years of operation.
Your most likely using the wrong switch. Try the link above for the correct switch. Its a single pole 15A 125V rated switch. There are 3 terminals, the third is for the light in the switch and is a neutral wire for the indicator light only. The wires must be correctly on the terminals or else you'll create a dead short! On the link above your looking for the replacement of the ZE-215.