Hi. I'm currently fixing one bought from that famous auction website. Same symptoms: Standby led, nothing more. I'm assuming you have checked the 2 obvious fuses...(?) Mine had the the "thermal" fuse INSIDE the big transformer blown, to check this unplug the yellow and white wires from the small board where the AC in plugs are and measure the transformes primary resistance. (It should be around 13 ohm if transformer is OK.) If primary is open-circuited things get harder: I had to unscrew the transformer then release it from its fixing plate and "U", break the white plastic close to the core. (where the white an yellow wires enter) Then the delicate bit: With a fine screw driver / knife loosen the varnish and tape in the small gap where the wires enter without breaking the transformers copper wires. Rewire with a new fuse or like most technicians with no fuse. (In that case you still have overload protection from F601 on the rear board but no thermal protection.)
a 6ya Technician can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Technician (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
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Sorry to hear that! It sounds like CallKit is not integrating properly with the app. In addition to un/reinstalling, it can help to turn off Hiya in Settings, force-quit Settings, uninstall Hiya, restart your device, and then reinstall Hiya. If you see calls in your native call log history identified (especially spam/scam) then you know CallKit has integrated. If not, then it can help to open Hiya, close by home button, and reopen Hiya and then recheck your call log (sometimes that gives CallKit the jump-start it needs).
With all this said, in the next two weeks, we will have an update that should fix this bug - and help us troubleshoot if you continue to have issues.
When trouble light comes on, it indicates that the hi-limit is tripped (this happens when oil temperature exceeds 450 Fahrenheit). The red button is located at the upper back panel of the unit, give it a push to reset but if nothing happens after resetting the button, the hi-limit needs to be replaced. Also try to check if the thermostat is working, stuck thermostat's mechanical contact will cause the hi-limit to trip.
as with most instalations or reinstalations after repair the most common fault for a non responcive machine is forgetting to turn the water tapes back to the on posistion so i would 1st surgest that you double check you have returned the water feed to the on posistion, No water feed will prevent the machine running properly.
Is it an MDS-JE530? Do you have a minidisc in it? If yes, then unplug the unit. Slide the little switch from TIMER "OFF" to "PLAY", then plug the unit back in. After 10 seconds, it should turn on and start playing the minidisc. Let me know if that works or if we need to try something else, okay?
The toner leak can cause the optical pair responcible for the toner sencing to become dirty. The easiest way to try and rectify this is to vacuum clean the area under the drum unit. At the left side of that area there is a small lever with the magnet in it. Check if it moves smoothly. Vacuum clean everything around that lever. There can be some other reasons worth to check. I put them in this article: http://www.kudesnik.net/faq/mono/fm005.php It's all in Russian but using online translators and looking at the pictures you'll be able to catch the idea of what should be checked.
hiya fixya...well i just opted,,,to take the thing to the repairs.the conclution is that the"platter rotation sensor " had burned out.sent the deck off today.will let you know the outcome,to maybe pass on this info to other ttx 1 users for near future....thanks for your responce.quote 35 quid just to confirm problem...but deducted from final bill of??????.westend dj staff are very helpful indeed where i puchased them from in the begining.