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You need to to determine the superheat and subcooling to check for the proper operation of your system when the compressor is running. I ran into a case just yesterday, the breaker kept tripping. Unit had the same readings as yours. This one had a subcooling of >25 degrees and 0 degrees superheat indicating unit was overcharged. I took an extra 8 pounds of r22 out of the system. During the investigation I also determined the filter/drier was blocking the refrigerant flow causing the technician to overcharge the unit. To check filter/drier performance all you need to do is measure the upstream and downstream temperature. The difference should be less than 2 degrees. This one was 7 degrees indicating it was metering flow. If your compressor stops operating before determining superheat and subcooling, you can get a professional tech to recover and weigh out the refrigerant in your system. You can look on the nameplate data on the side of the outside unit and see the ounces of refrigerant it is charged. If the compressor is operable go ahead and adjust charge by recovering the excess refrigerant into a recovery container for that refrigerant. Normal superheat and subcooling is normally around 10 - 15 degrees.
Hope this helps
Hello, the charge must be weighed in if this is a dry charged unit. After the line set is brazed, purged with nitrogen and evacuated to 500 microns then the charge can be added. The data plate on the unit will specify how many pounds the unit holds. You need a refrigersnt weigh scale to charge in the refrigerant. First you flip the cylinder upside down and with the unit off charge liquid refrigerant into the high side of the system untill the specified weight is charged in, sometimes the whole charge will not go through the high side sometimes it will. If it does not wait a few minutes and then flip the cylinder upright and turn the unit on and start charging vapor thru thenlow side untill you have got the full charge in.
On your name plate of A/C unit it will say the unit is factory charged with so many ounces of refrigerant. It will say the weight in ounces depending on the length of your line set you may or may not have to add freon. usually if your line set is longer than 20 ft you will have to add freon. The best way to charge an A/c is to wait for a hot day and charge the unit until it sweats back on your suction line the big insulated line. when the line sweats back to the compressor stop charging unit you will be fine. If this helps please rate me and give me a testimonial.
Running only 120psi on the high side is actually pretty low. Most systems operate at 200+psi. Charging the unit on the high side while it is running will actually push the refrigerant back into the bottle and is dangerous and shouldn't be done. Charging the high side with the unit off will not hurt the system, it is just preferred to be charge with liquid, but none the less, it will just push the refrigerant away from the compressor. The only thing that you really have to watch for is charging liquid into the low side since it can ruin the compressor internally. I would say you need to finish charging the system on the low side with vapor and be sure that you have the right amount of superheat. Hope this points you in the right direction!
A 30lb bottle or R22 Refrigerant your cost would be $650. As a Licensed Refrigeration Mechanic, I would charge 4 hour minimum for leak check and repair. The hourly charge is $75 and the Refrigerant which is extra to the price is $35 - 40 per pound. As the price of R22 Refrigerant goes up in price as it is being phased out per Government Regulations, you will see $75 - $100 per pound +. As for my pricing, my fellow workers say I charge too cheap. If you take $650 and divide it by 30, it would be $22/pound, but it can only be delivered to you and charged into your unit by a Licensed Refrigeration Mechanic...then the labor comes into effect for all of this. So in an nutshell, if you were charged $30 - $75 / pound , I think you did well. I hope this clears it up.