There is no switch and no wire on side of box it as a sixth sense program do i turn it off from the display on front of freezer or when i remove ice box there is a plastic arm to the right of the ice try , you have come this far with me the winning line is near the modle no is whirlpool 20rud3j its 2 weeks old come on lets get it your a top fixer many thanks mr guru sean ps front panel says ice and water mode can it be turned of from there
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Re: turn off ice maker
OK I just figured out this must be a european model refrig!
i'm having trouble finding an owners manual in english so looking at the manuals that are in spanish it looks as if there is an on off switch on the 6th sense board. if i'm correct its the icon right above the mode button has picture of one cube next to picture of 3-4 cubes. sorry i led you on a wild goose chase. thx peyton
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My name is Peter. I am a retired refrigeration field service technician.
You are not getting cooling air to your ice maker freezer compartment. Once again Samsung - bad design - put a ice maker in the fresh food section.
So, you have a ice maker enclosed next to the fresh food section where the recommended temperature setting is 35-40 degrees F.
Where as your recommended freezer temperature is +2/-2 degrees F.
There is a air damper/vent from the bottom freezer in the back of your ice maker housing. Lets remove the ice maker to check for ice build up. On the left hand side of the housing on the wall there is a long narrow cover plate. This is where you connector harness is located. There are 2 screws holding the front end in and a tong and groove tab in the back. Remove the cover plate.
Now, pull the harness out.
Lets remove the ice maker assembly. There are two screws in the front end securing the ice maker to the top of the casing. These screws are recessed. They are either Philips heads or hex heads (1/4"). If they are hex head, he recessed hole diameter is small. Some hex head hand tools will not fit. A screw gun will work or a small outside out side diameter hex head hand tool.
Remove these screws. In the back in each corner is a tong & groove. Pull forward to release the ice maker. Using a small flat head screw driver wedge the wire harness to release. Set the ice maker aside.
Inspect the air vent/damper for ice build up. Use a hair dryer to defrost.
I do not believe you have a automatic damper controlled by a thermistor (temperature sensor). If you do, Remove the damper assembly. Get your multi-meter. Set your meter to the lowest Ohm reading (Omega on your meter) Touch the two probes on your meter together, you meter should read 1.0. Disconnect the 2 motor contacts. On the motor place one probe on one contact and one probe on the other contact. If the meter still reads 1.0 the motor is bad. If the meter reads 0-50 Ohms the motor is good.
If there is no ice buildup & the damper motor checks out, replace the temperature sensor.
You will find getting the wiring back into the side panel will be a little difficult. As usual, Samsung is not service friendly.
Hello there: There's no iceIf your ice maker has stopped producing ice completely, check these, in this order:It may be turned off. Look for the wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If the wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. If so, try one of these:If your ice maker has a small red plastic lever, lower it to lower the wire.If there's no plastic lever, simply lower the wire. In either case, the ice maker should begin producing ice again. Also make sure that the temperature is 8 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. If the freezer is too warm, the ice maker won't cycle properly.The ice maker fill tube may be blocked with ice. If so, melt the blockage using a hair dryer-but be careful to not melt any plastic parts! Also replace the water shut-off valve or water-inlet valve, or both, if necessary.The ice maker head assembly may have broken parts. Look to see if the gears are broken. Check to see if the small plastic arms that rest against the ice rake are broken. If the ice maker head assembly is modular and you've found broken parts, you can just replace it.
there could be a blockage of frozen water in the fill tube of the ice maker.
if there is no blockage then the nex thig to check is the main water valve that supplies the water to the ice maker.
you can check the power from the main pcb board to the ice maker and make sure you have current to the ice maker
if all else fails replace the ice maker
i hope this has helped in some way good luck
Most ice makers hangs on the wall with three
screws. two at the top and one at the bottom. Just loosen these screws and the
ice maker will lift off the bracket and you can then reach the wiring harness
to unplug it.
Is the freezer cold enough? Should be close to 10 degrees.
Is there water or ice in the ice mold? If not put water in
it and see if it dumps the ice after it’s frozen.If there is ice, lift the cut off arm and let
it drop to see if it will start.
If it does dump the ice but don’t refill with water.
Try swapping the wires on the dual water inlet valve. Then
try the water dispenser. The water should go to the ice maker. This will tell
you weather or not the ice maker valve is working and if the line is clear.
If The ice maker has completely stopped producing ice
Check to see whether the ice maker has been turned off. Here's how to check. Look for a wire along the right side of the ice maker that looks a bit like a coat hanger. If this wire is in the raised position, the ice maker is turned off. On some units you simply lower the wire to the down position to turn the ice maker on. On others, you lower a small red plastic lever to lower the wire. If the wire is in the proper position check the freezer temperature, it should be between 0-8 degrees Fahranheit. If it is warmer than 10-12 degrees, the ice maker may not produce any ice. Check your door seals and thermostat, repair/replace as necessary.
The ice maker is producing ice poorly
When an ice maker is producing ice poorly--when it produces just a few cubes or none, or when the cubes are too small--it's usually because of a clogged water line or a defective water inlet valve.
First, check the water line attached to the back of the refrigerator for good water flow. To do that, first turn off the water supply valve. Then remove the water line from the back of the refrigerator. Next, place the water line into a bucket and momentarily turn the water valve back on to test the flow. If the flow is poor, you need to repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water. If the flow is good, you may have to replace the water inlet valve.
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Sounds like a water valve problem to me. Force the ice maker to cycle. (turn it off and let it get cold for at least an hour then turn it back on). Test for voltage on the ice maker side of the valve. The valve is usually in the back near the floor. Just follow the water line. Another solution. switch the wires on the water valve. then try the water dispenser and see if it makes the ice maker fill up. See if when the ice maker cycles water comes out the door. If the ice maker causes water in the door , replace the valve, If door switch causes ice maker to fill up replace ice maker again.
the LED's are optics they sense the level of the ice in the bucket on the door under the icemaker is 2 1/4" screws you can remove the IM and the white cover put a small jumper in the pins T and H this will cycle the IM the door and optices will need to be closed (or best to tape them so you can leave the door open the IM should cycle if nt check the power at the N and L pins see if you have 120vs then we can go from there