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Re: How to replace belt on wma62
There is a small panel at the bottom rear of washer that can be removed.
Remove this, and you will be able to see if the belt is on or not.
If it has come off, then to refit it, or fit a new one on, do the following.
Remove the top cover by undoing 2 screws located behind 2 plastic covers st the top front sides of washer.
They are torx screws, but you can usually get them undone with a small screwdriver.
Lift the top up at the front, and smartly push the top back,
towards the rear, remove the top.
Tilt the washer forward towards you, this will give you more room to work in.
Fit the belt round the motor pulley first, then pull it up towards the drum pulley, and reaching down from the top slowly feed the belt round the pulley, turning it as you do so, it is difficult, but this is
the best way to do it.
Don't get your fingers trapped.
There is no adjustment req'd, as it is a self tesioning belt.
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Hi from retired Englishman in SW France,
This sounds very much like the belt is broken or the motor is malfunctioning.
Belts are not expensive- sorry I do not know how much yours would cost- and are easy to be changed by a competent person:-
REMOVE POWER FROM THE MACHINE AND REMOVE THE BACK.
The motor support bolts should be loosened and the old belt removed. Often putting the new belt on is a bit of a struggle, even with the motor 'loose', because it is new and smaller!
Once on it should be tensioned by pulling the motor against the belt firmly- but not over tight- and the motor support bolts tightened.
ON NO ACCOUNT SHOULD ANY FORM OF LEVERAGE BE USED TO TENSION THE BELT. THAT COULD LEAD TO DAMAGE TO THE BELT, MOTOR AND BEARINGS- EXPENSIVE!
If it turns out to be the motor, it can be false economy to just have the brushes changed although financially very attractive. Experience of others is that the brushes may only last months unless, that is, the motor is totally refurbished at the same time. It depends on how old the motor is and how much wear the commutator has had. New motors are not cheap, though. Ours for a Bosch cost GBP250- but it's your choice!
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Thanks and good luck!
If a washing machine is rumbling, and very noisy on spin, the main
suspect is the drum bearings. Drum bearing failure is common on many
washing machines due to water getting into them if the drum bearing
seal fails. (Hotpoint and Zanussi in particular in my experience) To
check for drum bearing failure you can take the belt off and spin the
drum by hand. If the drum rumbles when spun then the bearings may have
gone. There should be a constant rumble all the time the drum is
drum bearing failure symptom is excessive up and down play in the drum
which can be checked for by lifting the drum up and down from the drum
lip behind the door seal. A further symptom of drum bearing failure can
be a brown rust patch underneath the washing machine and down the back
of the outer drum, underneath the drum pulley (where the belt goes)
although this patch is not always present. There are usually two small
holes at the back of the drum bearings where water that has got past
the drum bearing seal trickles out, and it's usually stained with
grease and rust if water has got into the bearings.
noises when turning the drum by hand can also be caused if the drum
itself splits, or the spider at the back of the drum has come away from
the drum, is corroded or even broken. This would normally be a loud
noise on each revolution of the drum whereas the noise when drum
bearings have gone is constant all the time the drum is turning.
Lifting the drum checking for excessive play can often reveal a broken
or loose drum spider which sometimes only occurs at certain points
round the drum (the spider has three arms and is bolted to the drum at
Dryers have a belt that turns the drum, I think dryer belt being broken or slipping badly, burn out motor, or worn support parts.
---Dryer have a belt that rotate the drum, If the belt worn out or broken, it can not move the drum then you just need to replace it.
---You can check motor by hearing buzzing sound, if the belt has the problem. If you do not hear any sound from the motor then you may have to replace it.
---Try to move drum manually (by hand), if it is hard to turn then problem with the idler pulley, glides, or drum rollers.
I hope this will solve you problem
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Hi Drum bearing failure is common when the bearing seals start allowing water to enter. You can take the belt off and spin the drum by hand, and if the drum rumbles, replace the bearings.Since you hear whining it means that the bearing is damaged and the seals on bearing are gone too so it rotates without lubricant. It might be possible to hear whining while you rotate empty drum manually... Turn the drum by hand and listen for loud noises. If the drum itself is split or the 'spider' is corroded, broken or has come apart from the back of the drum it will create a loud noise on every turn of the drum. When the bearings have gone bad, the noise is constant the entire time the drum is spinning. Take the belt off and run the motor alone if you hear a high pitched squealing noise to check for motor bearing damage or wear. If you still hear the noise without the belt, it's the motor bearing.Then replacing the bearing is suggested. Let us know if you want something more else accept the solution. Thanks for contacting fixya.com
If the drum is very stiff to turn could be the drum bearings shot which would account for the broken belt, replace belt and it liable to break shortly after again. hover are known for there bad bearings and they cost a small fortune.
check it out have a look and see if there is nothing jaming the drum inside, i am certain your belt has gone and maybe down to the stiff drum making belt break, replace belt but bare in mind it may break again if the drum is too stiff.
choice is yours really. bearing kits cost more than 50 quid in general
If it's a really fast squeek, I'd suspect the motor bearings.... a little slower, I'd suspect the drum roller guides (more likely!) Try removing the belt, and turning the drum by hand. The other possibility is the blower fan - you can also tell with the belt removed and the dryer running..... it will be clear if it's the motor or the fan, without the drum turning.
The main drum bearigs have failed, you have to disconnect everything you can to enable you have to
remove the whole drum and container through the top of the m/c.
It is quite an involved repair, and could prove to be expensive. more so if the drum shaft is worn.
if you need any further info, let me know