Question about Kenmore Elite HE4 Electric Dryer
First time using my machine and i accidentally put the lint filter in backwards ! Now I can't get it out can someone help !!
You will need to pull it out as best you can. What is the model number?
Posted on Jan 20, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: lint filter for dryer
Sweet, the sock is probably in the fan area now, I hope it didn't break anything. Open up the back and open the sheetmetal cover for the filter area. It should go down to the motor and fan area. The sock should be there. Clean the area while you're there, it catches little things that fall out of the dryer. Of course, unplug the unit before working on it.
Posted on Aug 09, 2008
remove the 2 lint filter screws on the top,remove the back,you will see 4 screws on the blower box to the left(the tall box) remove the box and get that ever is stuck in it,let me know how you do-mike
Posted on Mar 20, 2009
Lint could be preventing the screen from re-inserting into the slot. Unplug the dryer and use a coat hanger with some duct tape on the end looped around so that it attaches to the hanger and has a sticky side for the lint at the bottom. Remove lint and try re-inserting the screen.
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
If you wish to clean the interior cabinet of the dryer follow these steps:
1. UNPLUG the dryer. Dangerous voltages are still present even with the dryer turned off.
2. Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen. IMPORTANT: You must remove the lint screen first in order to remove the blower fan housing.
3. Remove the lower toe panel directly below the dryer door by removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. With the screws removed, the panel will drop down, then come off. NOTE: For better access, you can prop the front feet of the dryer up (a 2x4 works well).
4. Loosen the screws on the blower fan housing directly below the drum and remove. There's usually a small clip holding the cover in at the bottom that you may need to pull out to release. NOTE: You may also have to disconnect the auto dry sensor plug (yellow wires with white plug - use a small screwdriver to release the locking tabs) and/or ground wire to accommodate removal of the cover.
You should now have access to the dryer interior and the blower fan squirrel cage motor. Take the time to clean out the blower fan housing cover as well. A long bristle brush made for dryers works well at removing any lint inside the dryer in the hard to reach places, followed by vacuuming.
NOTE: After cleaning, you may experience a slight burning odor. This is normal as lint gets stirred up in the cleaning process and can settle on the heating components. The odor should dissipate after a short period of use.
If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Sep 29, 2009
HI. There are a few areas i would advise to check to resolve this issue.
The dryer uses multiple thermostats to regulate the temperature. When the temperature is higher than the preset limit of a particular thermostat, the thermostat breaks the circuit and the heater goes off. When the temperature cools enough, the thermostat closes the circuit again and the heat can come on.
Most dryers have a choice of temperature settings, therefore a separate thermostat is used for each setting. The selector switch or timer control then routes the circuit through the appropriate thermostat.
If a thermostat fails, it may prevent the heat from coming on, This happens because the thermostat does not close the circuit when the temperature falls below the operating temperature of the switch. It is a simple matter to test a thermostat; it should show continuity when the switch is cool and no continuity when it is warmer than its rated temperature.
A thermostat can also fail by being always on, no matter what the temperature. This switch would show continuity whether it was hot or cold. In this case, the heater would not shut off and the the dryer could dangerously overheat. As a safety precaution a second thermostat is used, This is called a thermal fuse. The power will be cut to the heating circuit if the maximum safe temperature is exceeded. In most cases, this is a one time fuse. The heater circuit will not function until the fuse has been replaced. Of course, it will be necessary to determine and repair the underlying cause of overheating or the fuse will just cut out again. The most common cause of overheating will be a clogged ventilation assembly. Be sure to inspect the entire ventilation assembly for build up. This will cause issues, if obstructions exist.
The thermostats are usually grouped together. The are typically oval in shape and about an inch and a half in size. They may be on the blower housing, under the lint trap or inside the vent line. There should be two wires connected to each thermostat.
Label the wires and connections so that you can properly reconnect them later. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If either is corroded they should be cleaned or replaced.
To test the thermostats or fuse, set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Touch one probe to each terminal. You should get a reading of either zero or infinity. At room temperature, the thermostats should have a reading of zero. When the thermostats are heated to their limit temperature, they should switch off and you should get a reading of infinity. The fuse should be tested at room temperature for continuity.
Posted on Dec 06, 2009
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