Question about Maytag Centennial 3.2 cu. ft. SuperSize Plus Top Load Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I just hooked up my washer and after filling it the motor hummed and smelt like it was starting to burn! Is this a fixable problem?
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
most likely its the pump this is a simple repair just lean the machine back and remove the belt. if this machine has an access cover on rear remove it and disconcet the two hoses from the drain pump remove the three screws holding the pump in with a 3/8 scocket install new pump reconect hoses put back cover on put belt on and your done if no access panell on the rear just pop the top with a stiff putty knife at the front corners remove the front cover and the pump is right there on the right front corner remove it the same as rear put new pump on put cover on close top and your done
Posted on Jan 20, 2009
Our Maytag Atlantis strted having some unusual operation problems and failure to produce clean clothes about 3 - 4 yeras after purchase. The transmission was replaced, no parts costs, reasonable service call labor costs. Has worked good ever since, another 3 years or so.
Call Maytag and they will discuss with you.
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
SOURCE: maytag centenial won't spin
Your going to check the belt and pulley inside the machine but let me warn you first, this is a knuckle busting nightmare of a machine, and if your not fond of the idea of bleeding, grease and pain, call a repair company. I'll post a few examples to help you make your mind on the topic. Had to remove pump-not easy. Nothing wrong with pump, but had to trash it to get it off the motor shaft, so I had to replace it, too. #2 It took some trial and error but overall not a difficult project.
Belt wore out
Pop up top of cabinet and remove front panel. (I leaned unit back against a wall to facilitate internal access once panel was removed.)
Remove motor assy - 4 screws & connector.
Remove 3 pump screws (torx) and 2 hoses. Pry pump off motor shaft (not easy). I used a heat gun to help expand the plastic fitting on the motor shaft.
Remove old belt, put on new belt. (Do not use automotive belt-this belt is designed to slip because it also spins the tub. The tub will not spin when it's full of water, and the pump will not pump the water if the tub is bogging down the pump. Plus, you will probably overheat the motor.)
Press new pump back on motor shaft (advise not to re-use old pump as seals were probably damaged by removal process.)
Caution: Pressing pump onto motor shaft may cause pump rotor to bind in housing. Try to press it on a little too far so you back off slightly.
Replace pump screws.
Replace motor, giving attention to belt alignment.
Replace motor screws and connector.
Re-attach hoses on pump.
Button up cabinet.
The hardest part was removing the pump. If not for that, it would have been a 15-min, $20 repair.
Because I felt it wise to replace the pump also, it was a $70 repair.
Drive pump leaked
1. Take the front covers off.
2. Undo the pully spring to loosen belt
3. Remove belt off idler pulley wheel and free up belt from the large wheel.
4. Disconect the wiring harness and the hoses.
5. Undo the motor mounting bolts (4)
6. Take motor out of washer and remove the 3 screws holding the pump to the motor.
7. The pump had melted to the shaft and required I chisel the pump off of the shaft.
8. Attach new pump paying attention to where the belt is positioned.
9. Reattach the motor bolts, hoses, and wiring harnes.
10. Attach the belt and test the pump.
11. Put the front back on
Had to remove pump-not easy. Nothing wrong with pump, but had to trash it to get it off the motor shaft, so I had to replace it, too.
It took some trial and error but overall not a difficult project.
Posted on Jun 18, 2012
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