Question about Roper Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
you have the drain pipe too low into tthe house drain pipe, raise the washers drain pipe up , you only need four inches down into the hous drain
also the house drain pipe needs to be as high as the lid of the machine before you put the washer drain tube into the house drain
you have a syphoning effect
Posted on Apr 20, 2008
hellow my name is joyce and It sounds like you have a issue with your cut off valve that controls the water flow to your machine in between cycles, this is controled by your timer switch you may want to call technichian to repair. sounds like the only problem you have with the timer is on the rinse cycle not the wash cycle, but it defently needs to be fixed. if I can help you find a repair person please let me know.
thanks you and let me know if I can further assist you.
Posted on Feb 06, 2009
try replacing your water selenoid coming in. remember it isnt a mechanical timer it is a computerized timer, so if the selenoid isnt the problem, it might be the computerized timer. computers are very finicky, pain in the a- -!
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
If your washer is overfilling, check these:
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.
Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.
It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.
The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected.
If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.
Posted on May 08, 2009
SOURCE: water fills to proper level but agitator doesn't come on instead there is a grinding noise, when I move control to just prior to rinse cycle water drains properly, but still just grinding or buzzing n
Hi, Do you know if the washer spins at all?
It sounds like the coupler has gone bad.
Please let me know if it spins at all.
I can send yyou instructions on changing the coupler.
Posted on May 28, 2009
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