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Lowest level of 3 zones does not heat.

Split level house with a thermostat for each of 3 levels. Highest and middle level heating is working. Lowest level does not provide heat. Repairman visited and tightened electrical connections to the lowest level and it worked for a few days.He had indicated that the lowest level thermostat was mis-calibrated and that we needed to turn it up to higher degree than it would generate. However, he did not seem anxious to replace the thermostat and said it should still work , but we would have to turn it to higher degree than it would actually provide. After a few days of working , the lowest level does not provide any heat.

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You should have a trained a/c tech take a look at and adjust the bypass in the attic, it's letting too much air return back to unit not to zone.

Posted on Jan 20, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: thermostat issue with comfort zone II.

Is this an electric or gass furnace - Eather of these can can have this problem its most recomendable that you call a seviceman .
in the case of electric furnace you may requier a new heat sequencer. And in the case of gass you may requier a new relay.

Posted on Feb 19, 2009

mastatech
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SOURCE: Heat pump cycling on and off.

It sounds as if you you have a low charge of refrigerant, r22. When the unit comes on outside, the outdoor coils become the lowside, there is a low pressure switch that is tripping out contactor protecting the compressor.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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SOURCE: heating problem

Hi Radan, Did you get this problem solved? We have an Electrolux Kelvinator Split System and ours is doing exactly the same thing. I am struggling to find a solulution. Would be great if you can offer any advice.

Thanks Nicolle

Posted on Sep 25, 2009

SOURCE: I am renting a house which has a Trane heat pump

If it is a heat pump it may not have enough oomph.

Posted on Oct 20, 2009

  • 1015 Answers

SOURCE: We had a Honeywell CT87N

One thing you can try is to remove cover, it just snaps in place.There are two plastic leveling posts at top two sides. You will need a small level commonly called a torpedo level to set on these leveling points.It should be very close to level,bubble in middle. If it's not look at base plate against wall and locate two lower mounting screws there will be a small slot where the screws go into wall to allow for slight adjustment.You will need a small screwdriver to back these two screws out a little maybe 1 turn.Adjust thermostat base so that level has bubble in middle and carefully tighten the screws,keeping t-stat held level. This should help some but it is not unusual for set temp. ont-stat to be off 3-5 degrees from thermometer reading. Hope this helps you.Thanks.

Posted on Nov 08, 2010

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We have a W. McLain CG, small house, just 1 zone so no zone valve. How do I get the pressure back up, it is too low and heat is not reaching the back room


Boilers are set at 180 degrees which gives between 550 and 600 degrees per foot of baseboard depending on the brand. You can change the aquastat setting to 200 degrees which will give more heat, but that may not be your problem. Your system may not be balanced properly. If there is too much baseboard(BB) near the thermostat, it may shut down the boiler before it is warm in the back room. You can close the dampers near where the stat is, and fully open the dampers in the cold room. There is also the possibility that you need to purge some air from the system.
The best solution would be to split off with another zone if none of this works. I'm assuming you have a CG-3, but what size is your house? Is there an indirect fired water heater that uses the boiler to heat domestic water? If you have a cg-3 and your house is over 1000 sq feet, then your boiler is undersized. Good luck!

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typically hydronic systems like that need to be bled, start with the highest radiator, the bleed valve have a little square head and you need to have a key that fits them, most supply HVAC houses have them sitting on the counter but you can ask them for one.

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I have a two zone water baseboard system... I installed a new zone valve to the upper zone which was not calling for heat.. the only heat it got was when the lower zone was circulating... Now the upper...


Good clues to work with--
Let's review how you wired up the Zone Valves, in relation to the Boiler Control panel...

You say the upper zone does NOT SHUT DOWN--
Does that mean it is OPEN ALL THE TIME?-- (even when the circulating pump is OFF? )
That sounds like the thermostat is not even in the circuit, then.

Have you been able to cycle each of the valves thru their cycles-- Open- and then closed?
-- It almost sounds like you have an interconnection between the two valves-- is this possible?

Each Thermostat has to control its valve only...
and most systems do this thru a control panel at the boiler--
So-- How is your control panel connected to the 2 thermostats, and how are the 2 zone valves connected to the Control board?

Are you following a wiring schematic for hooking the valves and thermostats to the control board?
There should be a schematic with the new valve you must installed, right?
did you wire it like the instructions showed?

Make a few more tests, and get back with us--

Mack B

Jan 18, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

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I can turn the heat on level 4 (the highest level) and the fan works and I get heat but when I turn it on, on level 1-3 the fan doesn't come on. Is this just a fuse that I need to change?


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My 1997 Dodge Intrepid overheats. I've replaced the thermostat, and it continues to overheat. I noticed adjacent to one of the radiator hoses, a ribbed hose that is split. Could this cause the car to...


Now that you've eliminated the thermostat, it could be a number of other things. Don't drive the car too far until you've fixed the overheating problem - overheating can destroy an engine.

That split ribbed hose you see is plastic wire loom - it carries and protects electrical wires, and is not the cause of overheating.

1. Low coolant level
2. Radiator hose split/cracked, causing low coolant level.
3. Head Gasket - leaking, causing low coolant level
4. Thermostat - stuck closed (you eliminated this possibility)
5. Radiator cap - worn/damaged
6. Radiator fins - obstructed by debris/cardboard
7. Water Pump belt - missing/broken
8. Heater Core - leaking, causing low coolant level
9. Intake Manifold Gasket - leaking, worn, damaged
10. Radiator Fan Relay - faulty
11. Radiator Fan Blade - broken, missing
12. Radiator Fan Sensor/Switch - faulty
13. Water Pump - leaking, causing low coolant level
14. Radiator Fan Motor - faulty

My primary suspects would be Rad Fan Relay (#10), and
Rad Fan Switch (#12).

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We have a split level home. The heating system is steam/boiler heat. There are three thermostats that control the heat on the different levels. The thermostats on the top floors are set at 68 sometimes...


JUST A REFERENCE; Unit designed to heat 900 sqft. 300 sqft per thermostat. When heat comes on and only 1 zone is calling the unit doesn't heat 1/3. It heats the 900sqft it's designed to. Therefore that "extra heat" HAS TO go somewhere. If it doesnt go to the "non calling" zones the unit would shut down on safety because it would get too hot. So, open a window or you need a bypass damper with bypass duct installed that when the heat comes on for only one zone that "bypass" opens and sends the "extra heat" back into the return rather than to the "non calling" zones. To answer your question, nothing is wrong with your unit or tstats, it's the duct work. Maybe $600 to $800

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What you are describing is the Heat Anticipator. It is a small resistor that helps the thermostat from overshooting the set temperature by heating up and shutting off the thermostat just before your set temperature. I don't think that is related to your over heat. 14 degrees is a lot and the Heat Anticipator will only effect it 4 or 5 degrees. I would remove the thermostat and check if there is a call for heat. If so, you have a shorted wire. If not, replace the thermostat.

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1 Answer

Not heating all levels of house


If it's a zoned system, make sure that the damper has opened fully or is operating at all. If it's not, see if some ductwork is being pinched off or has come loose or torn loose by critters. You also want to check the filters as well.

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No Heat and Overheating in 1999 Chevy Silverado


After replacing the thermostat, you must bleed the air from the cooling system.

To bleed air from the 2.2L and 2.5L engines, remove the plug or sensor on the top of the thermostat housing. Fill the radiator with coolant until the coolant comes out the hole. Since the plug is made out of steel and the thermostat housing is aluminum, it is a good idea to apply an anti-seizing compound or Teflon® tape on the plug threads prior to installation. Install the plug and continue to fill the radiator. This will vent all trapped air from the engine.

Any trapped air in the heating system will have to be displaced by coolant. Once the cooling system is filled, with the radiator cap off, turn of the heater at it's highest setting. Start the engine and allow it to reach operating temp. You should see a drop in the coolant level as the air in the heating system is displaced by coolant. Add coolant to the proper level and replace the radiator cap.

Keep a close eye on the coolant level for at least the next couple of weeks. The cooling system is a "closed" system. Any significant decrease in coolant level indicates a problem.

If you have any questions, let me know.

Please take the time to rate this solution.

Drive safe and be warm.

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1 Answer

Honeywell ST6400C programmer doesn't switch off


Since you have three on/off timing modes could there be an overlap in the times?
The wires in the unit might be crossed. (don't always assume the contractor who wired maintained the correct colors , I have a friend who blew out a heating pipe because when a replacement motor valve was installed it was never wired right and the plumber assumed the colors were correct so no overtemp shutoff created steam in PVC pipes, OPPS)
There fore maybe one is still coming on. Do you have more than one heating zone? IF so see below

I guess the main question is why manually turn it off? why not use the program.

I will assume your heat is know as forced hot water heating. My house is multizoned however when the zone calling for heat turns off (zone valve closes) I installed a bypass valve in the lowest zone in the house, and reduced the circulator low shut off temp to 130 F which means even though the heat isn't on my circulator will continue to run dumping this excess heat in the lowest part of house to rise through house. (the spring loaded water valve allows the heated water to flow into this zone )We do have two thermistats. And even though the lowest one is not calling for heat the radiators are hot when the excess is dumped into this zone. So investigate and see if your system might be similar. (multizone).

Investigate your wiring, reprogram, replace any battery backup.

Dec 18, 2007 | Honeywell Programmable Thermostat Heater

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