Question about GE 30" Self-Cleaning Freestanding Gas Range - Stainless-Steel
My Baumatic B144SS oven is not heating up, there is a green light next to the timer (minute minder) dial which has never lit up before, we can't find anything about this light in the user manual though. This happened the other day, the fuse for the plug sockets tripped and when I looked at the oven after this (which was on at the time) the heat had stopped yet the fan fan was still running and this green light was on, could this be the element?
First look to see if the ignitor is coming on. Most common problem is the ignitor is weak or just bad. When the power is applied to the ignitor it glows and builds up resistance to open the gas valve then it lights. If the ignitor is weak or bad it will not build up enough resistance for gas to come into the burner. One sign of this would be a "woosh" sound when it trys to light. If the ignitor is coming on but not lighting it is most likely the ignitor is bad. Should have a full glow. Also, if the ignitor looks whiteish in color this is a sign of it going bad. You can compare to the broil ignitor to be sure. If the ignitor doesn't come on at all will need to see if you have power to the ignitor. Let me know what you find and let's solve it before you rate the solution.
Posted on Nov 05, 2007
SOURCE: broiler quit
Have you checked the broil element resistance? Unplug the range and remove the back cover. Remove the wires from the broiler element and place a meter across the element posts. See if the element reads close to a short (It should read very low resistance if good). If the element reads infinite (open), you will have to replace the broil element. If the readings are normal, you may have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. The board controls the bake and broil features of the oven through two separate circuits. Usually a relay on the board goes bad. Since the ERC is considered "non-serviceable", replacement components can be hard to find. For this reason, the entire assembly is usually replaced. The ERC runs around $100 for your range, while the broil element can run anywhere from $35 to $60. Now...as far as your self-cleaning function is concerned - most electric ranges use BOTH elements to super heat the oven cavity to about 700 - 800 degrees F. With one of the elements not working, there's a good possibility the self-cleaning function will not work either Double check the items I mentioned and let me know if this helps you.
Posted on Feb 02, 2008
SOURCE: The sparker for the gas
You need to clean up burner and the sparker head from dirt which acts like isolator and prevent spark to jump. Burner must have metal to metal contact with the range casing in order to work. Grease, oil and burned liquids like milk act like isolators and prevent contact between burner and the casing (mass).
Just unplug the range from the wall, take off burner, scrub and wash off all the dirt from it and from its seat to the very metal. Dry it out completely and put back in place. Plug in the range and give it a try.
Posted on Apr 09, 2008
SOURCE: gas oven dosnt work
the pilot light is there for 2 purposes. number 1 to light the burner and number 2 to heat up the thermocouple, thermocouple is a wire that the flame from pilot suppose to surround by fire. if the pilot is to low it will not reach the thermocouple. you can take the gas line that supplies gas to the pilot and clean it with a safety pin or a small needle. you can test the thermocouple by heating it up with a blow torch on low heat, get it red hot and then turned on the oven. if the oven works clean the pilot, if the oven do not work, replace the thermocouple if separate from safety valve. if thermocouple is part of it replace the safety valve.
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
I would be looking at the bake relay on teh coven control board. Using a voltage meter test the output voltage when energizing the bake feature. Be sure to remove the bake element wire coming from the bake element to the control. Test this terminal without the bake element wire attached. From the terminal with one meter probe to the neutral on the terminal block (where your cord attaches to), you should read 110 volts when energized and 0 voltge when shut off. What are you reading? If I can help further, I am here.....
Waiting to hear from you,
Posted on Feb 15, 2009
If only one element does not work, then test heating element continuity using a multimeter.
If oven does not bake or broil, then test temp probe.
If there is nothing wrong with elements and temp probe , then test wiring harness to control panel and timer control board.
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Posted on May 04, 2009
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