Question about Sears Craftsman LiftMaster Chamberlain Garage Door Opener Wireless Keypad Model 976LM Security+

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OPENER KEPT REVERSING NOW WILL NOT WORK AT ALL

THE OPENER KEPT REVERSING 3 OR 4 SECONDS INTO THE CLOSE CYCLE. HAD TO REPLACE CIRCUIT BOARD. OPENER WORKED FOR A WHILE, STARTED REVERSING, AND NOW WON'T WORK AT ALL AGAIN. NOW ANOTHER ONE OF MY OPENERS IS DOING THE SAME THING. SEEMS TO BE A CHRONIC CIRCUIT BOARD PROBLEM. ANYONE ELSE HAVING THIS TROUBLE. NEW BOARD INSTALLED IS ALMOST $200.00. I CAN'T KEEP DOING THIS!

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When you have circuit board problems, I usually reccommend replacing the opener rather than the board. There is no chronic board problem that I have seen. The issue of the door not closing was likely a force setting or safety eye setting issue and not the board. It is very difficult and expensive to diagnose a board issue and in my experience they rarly go out unless surged. We replace maybe one or two boards a year out of thousands of opener calls.

Posted on Jan 27, 2009

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New FM502 Dual gate opener pressed remote which starts the second gate opening then the master moves a few inches stops. Hear 3 beeps 2 seconds 3-. .Conections are good to circuit board! What up!


reprogram the opening sequence in the control box
it should that the first gate opens then the second gate opens a few seconds behind it
closing is the reverse
you can program that only one gate opens
you can also program that one gate is a entrance gate where it opens until you stop it , then when you have passed through , press it again and it closes
read the operating instructions and follow the programming procedures closely

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Getting an E61 error, I have replaced circuit board, replaced power outlet, checked breaker and checked for any visual damage to wiring/connections. Not sure what else it could be.


E61
Heater Relay failure
Heater relay stuck open or closed; Wiring defective
Check for short circuit across heater relay(s) (RL5, RL6, RL7) or L1 applied to heater relay output(s) (J5-2, J7-1, J7-3) with cycle stopped. Check for open circuit between L1 and heater relay connection(s) (J5-1, J5-3, J7-2). If no wiring problems are found, replace Electronic Control Board and retest.

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Shows hE code, does not cool down


possible Heater Relay failure
Heater relay stuck open or closed; Wiring defective
Check for short circuit across heater relay(s) (RL5, RL6, RL7) or L1 applied to heater relay output(s) (J5-2, J7-1, J7-3) with cycle stopped. Check for open circuit between L1 and heater relay connection(s) (J5-1, J5-3, J7-2). If no wiring problems are found, replace Electronic Control Board and retest.

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1 Answer

HOW DO YOU PUT REFRIG IN DEFROST MODE WHEN IT HAS ELECTRONIC DEFROST CONTROLLER


You didnt give the make of the ref.; But your solution is here for most all

The newest defrost feature in modern fridges is the electronic adaptive defrost control board. *Maytag has one version, see picture...to put this adaptive defrost style of fridge into defrost, short with a small screwdriver between L1 and test on the adaptive defrost board, wait 3 seconds and you should hear a "click" noise from the relay and the fridge will shut off and go through a defrost cycle. A close up common way *this* version of the Maytag/JennAir control is wired.
Amana also has a version of adaptive defrost, see info sheet for some help on the Amana version. Press refrigerator light switch five times in six seconds to initiate defrost cycle. Pressing five more times within six seconds will cancel defrost and go straight into the run mode. Similar operation on both bottom mount and SxS refrigerators. After the defrost terminator/thermostat opens, six minutes of dwell time occurs before the compressor and condenser fan motor will operate. After defrost terminator/thermostat open, 10 minutes of dwell time occurs before the evaporator fan motor will operate.
Frigidaire has also jumped into the market with an adaptive defrost board. The fresh food section light switch and light bulb must work. To initiate a defrost cycle, open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds. The compressor and fans should shut off and the defrost heater should come on. Open the door and push the light switch in and out 5 times within 6 seconds to remove the refrigerator from the defrost mode and back into a cooling mode.
Frigidaire - referance model FSC23F7DSB3
This product comes equipped with an Adaptive Defrost Control (ADC). To activate manual defrost, press and hold the Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. A ?¿½d?¿½ in the freezer temperature window and ?¿½F?¿½ in the refrigerator temperature window will display when the heater is activated. To deactivate manual defrost, press and hold Freezer temperature UP (WARMER) key while pressing the Fresh Food temperature DOWN (COLDER) key 5 times within 6 seconds. ?¿½d?¿½ and ?¿½F?¿½ will be displayed until the defrost cycle is complete. (approx. 8 minutes)
For some Whirlpool refrigerators - some Kenmore refrigerators are made by Whirlpool ( 106.######## )
The refrigerator/freezer defrost system can be checked by manually initiating a defrost cycle. There
are two methods of initiating the ADC Test Mode.
First Test Method:
1. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
3. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
4. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
5. Turn the thermostat off for 15 seconds.
6. Turn the thermostat on for 5 seconds.
7. Turn the thermostat off.
In 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal closed). NOTE: The test mode will terminate when the bimetal opens. If the refrigerator/freezer is already in defrost, Test Mode can be terminated by unplugging the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet and waiting 30 seconds before plugging it back in. The refrigerator/freezer should immediately go into cooling mode if the thermostat is closed.
If this first test procedure fails to make the ADC initiate a defrost cycle, try the following procedure to make the ADC begin the Test Mode.
Second Test Method:
1. Disconnect the refrigerator/freezer from the wall outlet for at least 30 seconds.
2. Turn the thermostat off.
3. Reconnect power to the refrigerator/freezer.
Within 3 to 8 seconds the ADC should turn on the defrost heater (with the bimetal close). If the unit fails to go into the defrost mode during this test, the problem may not be with the ADC. A defective bimetal may be the cause of the failure. The ADC will only go into a test mode if the bimetal
is closed. If the ADC senses an open bimetal it will return to the cooling mode within 3 to 8 seconds.
HELPFUL HINT: Upon entering the Test Mode, the relay mounted on the ADC board should turn off the compressor and turn on the defrost heater. Listen for the relay to click.
?¿½ If the relay clicks one time when entering the Test Mode, check for continuity in the defrost heater.
?¿½ If the relay clicks two times, check for an open bimetal.

Maytag S-S Refrigerator MSD2756GEW forcing defrost cycle
I replaced my defrost heater two weeks ago, but the frost built back up on the evaporator coils. Replaced the adaptive defrost board with new ( Maytag p/n 6100598 8 ) board. Want to force a defrost cycle to see the heater work, so I shorted the L1 pin to adjacent pin (now called DOOR instead of TEST) for three seconds and nothing happens. Compressor keeps running, fans still going etc. Tried pressing the door switches 5 times in 6 seconds and that doesn't work either. Any hints on how to get the defrost cycle to initiate?
Hi,
This might help, a copy:
The issue is that some 12002104 ADC boards have been shipped in the 61005988 ADC board box. Do not reorder the board, the 12002104 board will function the same in place of the 61005988, but you must use the forced defrost method for the 12002104. Jumping "L-1" and "door" will not initiate the forced defrost function.
To Initiate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Cycle cold control on and off three times in six seconds. The cold control needs to be left in the closed (call for cooling) position for the defrost system to energize on all platforms. It is not enough to cycle the cold control knob, the contacts must actually open and close (open doors for a period of time if necessary to force the control to call for cooling). In most cases, you can hear the contacts open and close if they are doing so.
To Terminate Forced Defrost Cycle:
Disconnect power for five seconds.
You were right. I cycled the cooling controls three times and it went into a defrost cycle. Thanks.

Aug 08, 2011 | Refrigerators

1 Answer

Door reverses for no reason, 3 or 4 times, but finally closes


If the main light blinks 10 times when the door reverses it is a sensor problem. Sometimes the sensors are misaligned just enough that the light comes on but closing will be intermittent. If the main light is not blinking 10 times and you have increased the down force it might be a bad RPM sensor board. This is a small printed circuit board just in front of the motor. I might add I have never seen one intermittent but there is always a first time.

Jun 29, 2009 | Sears Craftsman LiftMaster Chamberlain...

1 Answer

After use, fan keeps running and control panel not working


Hi, this is a major chip fault. this chip is located on the control board and, it is responsible for initiating the cooking cycle correctly. you will need to replace the control board asap. it has failed.

Jun 19, 2009 | Kenmore Microwave Ovens

1 Answer

QUESTION ABOUT DEFROST TIMER


i'm not sure what kinda timer you have there are two, one is a timer you can cycle yourself on or off the second is a defrost board does the same-thing you just can't force a defrost with it. but the way to know if it working is (defrost timer) cycle the unit in to defrost try to hear any sizzling if so your heater and defrost t-stat are ok i would replace the timer. now on the defrost board since you can't cycle it i would check the defrost element and defrost t-stat with a meter you should read a closed circuit if the heater is good, and if the coil is frosted up you should also read a closed circuit on the t-stat again replace the board. Hope this helps you

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5 Answers

Sear 1/2 HP Garage door opener with replaced gears


The actual problem is after power on the opener, its initial state is uncertain. It may be in ready to close or ready to open state.

If the garage door is in closed position, likely the opener will still try to close it, because its initial state is uncertain. That's why you guys see it travels 2 seconds and reverse.

In order to fix this problem, after you power on the opener, do NOT hook up the chain, and do NOT mount the sprocket cap(so you can see the sprocket travel direction). While you watch carefully at the sprocket, press trigger button on remote control or ask someone press wall control button. Make sure the sprocket turns clockwise and stop. If the sprocket turns counterclockwise, press the control button again, so it will turn clockwise. Let it finish clockwise turn. At this moment, the opener is in ready to open state.

Cover sprocket cap and hook up chain. Mount door bracket and adjust. Your door must be in close position.

You are ready to go.


Apr 16, 2008 | Sears Craftsman LiftMaster Chamberlain...

2 Answers

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sounds like the safety door sensors are at fault,also did you reprogram the remotes by pressing the smart button on the logic board,when the safety sensors are bad the door will reverse to open state.you can pully the rip cord to manualy close the door untill you solve the problem.

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