Question about Sunpak Ultra 4STM 6125 TriMonopod

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I received a sunpak ultra 7000tm for Christmas and after 3 uses the 3 way Adjuster arm is stripped and no longer functions. Please provide the customer service phone number so I may inquire about a replacement part.

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This is the distributor for the US:

http://www.sunpak.com/

Posted on May 08, 2015

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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My 2005 Mazda 3 driver's side windshield wiper is not working. I believe it is just loose as the motor and passenger side works fine. How to tighten this?


there is a plastic cap at the base, pull the cap off you will see a nut. take the nut off, lift the arm, a little rocking but no prying please. take a close look at the serrations inside the base of the arm. if they are stripped smooth then you need a replacement arm. these can be had at the dealer or used at a junkyard, if you go used please examine it to make sure it is not also stripped and that it is the right arm, left and right arms are usually not the same. put back on in reverse order, use some loctite on the nut.

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1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Need to know how to adjust the valves


On Vehicle Inspection If a clanging noise due to the lash adjuster produced immediately after the engine has started or during operation persists, perform the following checks:
  1. Check the engine oil, and add or replace if necessary.
    1. If the engine oil is low, the air drawn in from the oil strainer will be trapped in the oil passage.
    2. If the engine oil level is higher than the specified level, agitation of oil by the crankshaft could cause a large amount of air to enter the oil.
    3. A deteriorated oil contains a large amount of air, because the air, once trapped, is not readily separated from the oil. If the air trapped due to these causes enters the high pressure chamber in the lash adjuster, the air in the high pressure chamber will be compressed while the valve is in the opened position. The lash adjuster will be drawn too far in, and will produce noise when the valve closes. This is the same phenomenon that occurs when the valve clearance is adjusted to an excessive dimension. Fig. 1: Check the valves with the white arrows, rotate the crankshaft 360°, then check the valves with the black arrows — 2.0L, 2.3L, 2.4L and 2.6L Engines 86663205.gif
      Fig. 2: Check the valves with the white arrows, rotate the crankshaft 360°, then check the valves with the black arrows — 3.0L (12 Valve) Engines 86663206.gif
      Fig. 3: Check the valves with the white arrows, rotate the crankshaft 360°, then check the valves with the black arrows — 3.0L (24 Valve) Engines 86663236.gif
      Fig. 4: Check the valves with the white arrows, rotate the crankshaft 360°, then check the valves with the black arrows — 3.5L Engines 86663207.gif
      Fig. 5: Push the rocker arm to check if the rocker moves down or not — all engines except for the 3.5L Engines. 86663208.gif
      Fig. 6: Push the rocker arm to check if the rocker moves down or not — 3.5L Engines. 86663210.gif
      In this case, the normal condition will be restored if the air escapes from the lash adjuster.
  2. Start the engine and slowly race (accelerate the engine from idling speed to 3,000 rpm in 30 seconds and then decelerate it to the idling speed in 30 seconds) it several times (less than 10 times). If racing the engine causes the noise to die away, it means that the air has escaped from the high pressure chamber of the lash adjuster and that the lash adjuster has regained its normal functions.
    1. When the vehicle is parked on a slope for a long period of time, the oil in the lash adjuster will decrease. When the engine is started, the air might enter the high pressure chamber.
    2. After a long period of parking during which the oil in the oil passage goes away, it will take some time before the oil is re-supplied to the lash adjuster. Therefore, the air could enter the high pressure chamber.
  3. If any abnormal noise is not eliminated by racing, check the lash adjuster.
    1. Stop the engine.
    2. Set the engine so that cylinder No. 1 is positioned at the top dead center of the compression stroke.
    3. Press the rocker arm at the area indicated by the white arrow mark to check whether the rocker arm is lowered or not.
    4. Slowly turn the crankshaft 360°clockwise.
    5. In the same procedure as step "c'', check the rocker arm at the area indicated by the black arrow mark.
    6. Push down the rocker arm at a portion located right above the lash adjuster. If the rocker arm goes down readily, the lash adjuster is defective. Replace it with a new one in accordance with Step 4. In addition, when replacing the lash adjuster, be sure to remove air positively from the lash adjuster before installation. Then perform inspection in accordance with steps "a'' through "e'' to make sure that there is no abnormality. In addition, if the rocker arm is felt to be very stiff or cannot be pushed down when it is pushed, the lash adjuster is in the normal condition. Therefore, check for other causes of noise.
Bleeding and Checking When cleaning or checking the lash adjusters, use only clean diesel fuel. To test the lash adjusters, follow this procedure.
  1. Immerse the lash adjuster in clean diesel fuel.
  2. While lightly pushing down the inner steel ball using a small wire, move the plunger up and down four or five times to bleed air. The use of the retainer facilitates the air bleeding of the rocker arm mounted type lash adjuster.
  3. Remove the small wire and press the plunger in. If the plunger is hard to be pushed in, the lash adjuster is normal. If the plunger can be pushed in all the way readily, bleed the lash adjuster again and test again. If the plunger is still loose, replace the lash adjuster. NOTE: Upon completion of bleeding the air out of the lash adjuster, hold the adjuster upright to avoid the diesel fuel from spilling.
  4. After air bleeding, set the lash adjuster on the special tool (leak down tester MD998440).
  5. After the plunger has gone down somewhat 0.008–0.020 in. (0.2–0.5mm), measure the time needed for it to go down an additional 0.04 in. (1mm). Replace if the measured time is not between 4–20 seconds.
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Sep 06, 2010 | 1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max

1 Answer

Broken Head of Monopod


Contact Sunpak direct, they are required to sell parts.

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