Question about Heating & Cooling
The thermocoupling makes a fluttering-bubbling noise while heater is on and even when heater is turned off.
Check out the pilot thats what is making the noise could need cleaning out , thermocoupls make no noise .
Posted on Jan 20, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Make sure all the wire connections are good and tight. Next lift off the cover and look for a little thermal disc mounted up by top of the heat exchanger. Most have a re-set button but not all. If you have this ,by-pass it ,see if that solves the problem, if so it may be defective, or doing its job and you have a venting problem. If you don't have this and have changed the thermocouple (was it a copper tube with a fitting that screwed into the gas valve, or did it have 2 wires, that is a pilot generator, kind of same thing) make sure the probe is set correct, with the pilot flame heating the top 1/3rd of the probe. The only thing left is the gas valve.
Posted on Dec 25, 2007
SOURCE: thermocouple replacement
Maybe you need to approach it differently. Why do you assume you have a bad thermocouple each time? If its because the whole flame goes out and you have to relite it, a lot of things can cause that.
1 ohm out a new thermocouple and record the ohms reading (read tween the center LEAD looking area on the end going into the gas valve and the outer shell (copper colored cover) If its a MV type controls it will have 2 wire ends. With the flame running now check the MV-DC on the same area, as the resistance. Yes you will need 2 hands extra for holding the flame on. It wont stay on without being hooked up. Typically you need 400MV for a thermocouple and 600 is the stahdardf output on a generator with wire leads depending on which you have. If your below these ranges You need to blow out the piulot area with compressed air and retry it. You should get an increase in the milli volts after cleaning because now the flame will hit the pilot or thermocouple or generator as designed and dust was causing it to be lazy and not get enough voltage back to the gas valve to stay on.
Now this is assuming you have the correct pilot orfice and its not too small like with an LP orfice installed on a NG system. The pressures are differant and the hole is way smaller on LP.
This is a really common problem with multi changeouts of thermocouples. Dusty Pilot burners. y policy has always been to blow it out first after observing the type and kind of flame. Then reexamine it after cleaning it out.
If this helps you please rate me as high as you can. If I have not given you enough information please post back so I can better aquaint myself with you problem. Good Luck!
Posted on Mar 23, 2009
It may be, Rinnai suggests a maximum length of about 13 equivalent feet of venting including elbows. Add 6 feet for every 90 degree elbow. If the vent is longer than this it is taxing the combustion fan motor and it will start giving you error codes and will not ignite. Remove the trim panel from behind the heater and find the flexable air intake pipe. Temporally remove it from a fitting and test the unit a few times to see if the unit starts quieter. This procedure will be taking room air into the heater for combustion and circumventing the direct vent feature of the heater, not a fix. Have you had the gas pressure tested? It gould be that! You may wish to consider relocating the heater and fire your installation contractor for putting you in this predicament, not Rinnai.
Posted on Nov 05, 2009
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Hi, I will walk you through to check the stat. Pull off the cover 1st. You will need a screwdriver, a small one. Could be slotted or phillips. Loosen all of the screws you can see until the t-stat comes off. You have 3 sections counting cover. You will now see the sub-base and wires. You should have only 2 wires to the stat. You will need a piece of scrap insulated wire, even a piece of old speaker wire twisted togeter at each end will work. No worry of shock. Just jump or touch across the 2 terminals and hold them on and if it fires up and comes on, the thermostat is the fault. More then likely that will be the problem. Any hardware store will have one. Get a heat milivolt only, even if the salesman trys to sale you a heat/cool 24 volt stat which will work, but will cause problems in the future. I am sure it is stat. If not, contact me and I will walk you through what else would cause this. If the pilot is on, there is no ignitor on this furnace, either a thermopile generator or a thermocouple, a high limit switch and the main gas valve. Keep me posted, it will only take you a few minutes to test the t-stat. Let me know.
Posted on Dec 18, 2009
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