Question about GE GLDT690TWW Dishwashers : Built in Dishwasher
One leg of LED lites up with delay and also the start when you touch each of three buttons. Each has a different leg that lights. These are a main control board with 2 small interface boards with 3 harnesses. I put in the cheaper Wd21x10357 and the harness between each interface boards was too short by 2 inches.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Jake, the green wire is the ground, just attach it to one of the screws the secure the cover plate. As far as you ordering both the heater and the board, you have it covered. Catriver.
Posted on May 30, 2008
SOURCE: GE WHRE5260E1CC NO HOT WATER
If the washer won't fill or fills very slowly, if it overfills, or if the water is the wrong temperature, the water inlet valves could be faulty. These components are easy to locate and very easy to replace, at little cost. When you suspect an inlet valve is faulty, first check to make sure the water faucets are fully turned on and properly connected to the hot and cold inlets of the valves. Then check the screens in the valves; if they're clogged, clean or replace them. If water doesn't enter the tub, set the temperature control to the HOT setting. If there is no water, set the control to the WARM setting. If all that comes out is cold water, the hot-water inlet valve is faulty. Reverse the procedure to test the cold-water valve, setting the control first on COLD and then on WARM. If the tub overfills, unplug the washer. If water still flows into the tub, the valve is stuck open. In any of these cases, the valves should probably be replaced. To check the valve assembly:
Step 1: Remove the back service panel and disconnect the hot-water and cold-water hoses to the valves.
Step 2: Remove the hoses connected to the valves inside the cabinet. Also disconnect the wires from the terminals. Back out the screws holding the valves to the machine. The inlet valves have solenoids (a coil of wire that carries a current) inside the housing. These can be tested, but chances are the valves are simply worn out.
Step 3: Tap the solenoids with a screwdriver handle. If this doesn't work, replace the entire inlet valve assembly. Repairs usually cost more than a new part. Make sure the replacement valve assembly is exactly the same type as the old one. Install it in reverse order of the way you disconnected the old one.
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
SOURCE: main board
You will find the key pad needs to be replaced. you will need to remove the outer case first then unplug the ribbon cable and unscrew the earth screw. Peel the front keypad off carefully then replace the same way with a new one.
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
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Addressing Power-up/Start-up Issues:
1. Unplug the breadmaker.
2. Confirm the power source you're accessing is live using a blender, toaster, etc.
3. Plug the breadmaker in.
4. Confirm the breadmaker is receiving power:
Were you able to confirm that your breadmaker is receiving power?
No. Sorry to hear that. Attempt to have the breadmaker serviced by a small appliance repair facility or simply discard it.
Yes, Fantastic! Now reboot the breadmaker's electronics by pressing and holding down the Stop button down until you receive a visible and/or audible confirmation, usually within 1 to 5 seconds. Note: Some models require you press and hold the Start button. Others require you press and hold the Select button.
Often the + and - Timer Delay buttons are pressed by mistake, delaying Start by up to 12 hours. If you suspect the Timer Delay feature has been engaged accidentally, you'll need to reboot the breadmaker's electronics.
All breadmaker use a belt and pulley system. If your breadmaker powers-up but the mixer won't turn when it's supposed to, your belt is probably broken. You'll need to disassemble the breadmaker to visually confirm.
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