Question about Washing Machines

1 Answer

GE frontloader door gasket ripped

Our GE front loading washing machine WCVH6260 is less than 6 months old. We found water on the basement floor and in the pedestal stand drawers beneath. On investigating, we found the door gasket was ripped with no evidence of any sharp objects having been inside to cause such a tear. We purchased our washer 14 months ago and low and behold, it is having the same problem as everyone else. This is exactly the sort of problem that GE should take care of regardless of having the extended warranty or not. Are there such things as "Lemons" in the laundry world?

Posted by on

  • missdaisy2u Apr 25, 2009

    I have the same problem. Ge wll not fix the problem.I have to go to a laundry mat and wash my family's clothes. I ahve a 1,000 dollar washing machine in my house and I cannot use it. It floods my entire laundry room.

×

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    Superstar:

    An expert that got 20 achievements.

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

  • Master
  • 15,935 Answers

A lot of concerns have been raised about door bellows molding, mildewing, and/or ripping and needing replaced. A replacement bellow isn’t cheap (prices vary, but are around $75-80), so hopefully these helpful steps will eliminate the need to call a repair service and pay the additional labor charges. This is a repair of MODERATE difficulty. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the washer top panel by removing the three torx-type screws (or 7mm) where it attaches in the rear of the washer. The panel should slide back, and then lift off.
3. Remove the operator console by removing the dispenser and the scew(s) behind it. Take a putty knife and insert it under the console seam right above the door. If you push in slightly while pulling outwards the panel pops off. Use care not to pull or damage any of the wiring. You can leave the wires attached and simply lay the console across the top of the washer out of the way.
4. Locate the wire hoop retainer around the rubber door boot. It is located behind the rubber seam where it attaches to the door frame. Follow this hoop around to the bottom of the door opening and locate the wire tension spring. Gently pry this spring apart and pull the wire hoop from the groove. Pull the rubber boot from the frame and push it inside towards the wash tub. You will also have to remove the door boot from the fill tube on the left hand side of the door opening. There is a small wire clamp holding it in place.
5. Remove the three screws that hold the door latch assembly in place. This is on the right hand side of the door opening. You can leave the latch in place as long as you remove the screws and push it inside slightly to remove it from the front casing of the washer.
6. Remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges in place. Use care to support the door hinges when loosening. They can bend. Set the door aside in a location where it will not get stepped on or broken.
7. Remove the lower kick panel under the door. There are 3 screws under the bottom edge holding it in place. Sometimes the panel can stick. A slight tap on either side will knock it free.
8. Remove the front washer casing by removing the four remaining screws that are holding it in place. There should be two at the top and two at the bottom. Set the front casing aside.
9. Remove the old door boot by locating the large clamp that attaches it to the wash tub. Loosen the 7mm nut and the boot will detach from the tub. Also remove the boot from the fill tube coming from the dispenser.
10. Install new door boot on the wash tub and install clamp. There should be instructions that come with the door boot with guide marks to ensure you align it correctly. Once you have the boot in place, tighten the clamp enough to where it is snug. DO NOT over-tighten or you may damage the tub and or clamp. In most cases the clamp will break.
11. Once you have the boot in place, re-install everything in the reverse order of how I explained to disassemble. Make sure you connect the door latch assembly BEFORE you re-install the outer portion of the door boot. Also, make sure you install the boot completely over the fill tube. There should be a ridge on the tube where to stop. Sometimes the tube is not inserted all way into the boot and water will leak behind it. The clamp is always difficult to get back in place. If you cannot get the clamp to go back over the tube, you can live without it. Some newer models do not have them installed. Just make sure it is a snug fit where the rubber boot fits ALL the way back to the plastic ridge on the tube.
12. When you get the point where you are ready to install the door boot back over the frame of the door opening ensure you fit it snugly all the way around the door. Beginning at the top of the door, start inserting the wire hoop back into the groove. Make sure to wire spring points towards the bottom. As you work your way around the door to the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, you will need to maintain some constant downward pressure while pulling the spring apart in order to snap it back into place. It would be advisable to use a second set of hands to hold the wire hoop in place while doing this as it has the tendency to want to come out of the groove.
13. Once the door boot is back in place, re-install the operator console and washer top.
14. At the operator console, select DRAIN SPIN, NO SPIN and press any button under OPTIONS 4 times (has to be the same button, though). This will place the washer in diagnostics mode. You should hear the door latch lock and "C00" will be displayed on the console. The washer will run through a series of tests filling the tub, tumbling, draining, and then a final spin. If you do not wish to wait for the test to complete you can press CANCEL at any time. The test checks out everything and takes about 15 minutes. Look for any leaks.


Step 6--Removing the door. After you remove the three screws in Step 5, there is only one screw to remove in step 6 on my model. It was hidden behind a plastic cover that makes the hinge look pretty. You'll see on the inside of the door that two plastic prongs/tabs extend into holes in the hinge. If you push on them laterally and pull out, the tabs will pop out. Outside the door on the left side of the machine, you'll see the plastic cover that is connected to those plastic tabs and is hiding the hinge. On the outside cover piece, there is a flat tab that extends up into the plastic housing above it. If you gently pull the cover downward and out the whole plastic cover will come off revealing the one screw that needs to be removed to take the door off.
Step 7--Removing the Kick Panel. The middle screw is more difficult to reach than the sides. You may need an extension for your screwdriver and/or shims or a helper to prop up the washer while you remove the middle screw.
Step 8--Removing the washer casing. The step says to remove the screws and set the casing aside. My model (2005-ish) has wires connected to it. Rather than being able to remove it, it swings open like a door with the wires as the hinge. I simply used a box to prop up the outside part of the door so it did not sag and stress the wires.
Step 9--After you remove the old rubber bellow, you will likely see a lot of dirt, mold, and junk where the bellow was. Clean that stuff off with a cloth sprayed with a gentle cleanser before installing the new bellow. We replaced our bellow because of mold and mildew and bad smelling stuff. That dirt and junk is part of the problem. Clean it up before you install the new clean bellow.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Sep 12, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Washer, Front load #WCVH6260 F W W - trying to


use a theromstat screwdriver,
ver small flat head, push it betwen the detent
and the clamp it should release right away

Oct 03, 2009 | General Electric WSSH300G Front Load...

2 Answers

Mildew in ge front load washer


Try two things: Add several cups bleach to the tub and run it a complete cycle. When not in use, leave the door open so it will air out.

Jun 04, 2009 | GE WBVH6240F Front Load Washer

1 Answer

GE Adora Frontload Washer shredding clothes


We were having the same problems with ripped clothing and longer cycles. Our rubber seal by the door has ripped twice now causing massive amounts of water to run out. I learned through other threads that many people are having these problems and was told that zipping up zippers and turning jackets and clothing with big heavy stuff on them in side out to protect from ripping the clothing and the rubber seal. I removed the panel on the front bottom of the machince and there is a small gray cover that housed the coin trap. Mine was clogged and once I cleared that out, my cycle times got better. I hope this was somewhat helpful. We definitely won't be purchasing another GE front loader!!

Mar 29, 2009 | GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

3 Answers

GE frontloader door gasket ripped


We had the same problem, I printed off the solution posted by john_in_erie. His repair directions were VERY acurate, however we find a few helpful additions to the repairs - 1st in step #6, the spring loaded wire, is in the front of the gasket under seal (we were looking on top of machine). Also in step #8, you need a short phillips screwdriver or a 7 mm socket with a 1/4" ratchet because of the position of the screw to get around the edge of the tub.
Thank you so much John, we could have not done it without your very accurate installation instructions.
Lori & Mitch Headen

Dec 30, 2008 | GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

1 Answer

GE front loader will not drain or final spin.


I had the same problem with mine about 10 months ago. It seemed that the washer would take forever to wash a load. Every time we went to check the remaining time, it seemed that it never changed. This went on for about a week. We discovered that the washer was not draining properly. After we took it apart, we discovered that a sock, along with some other items, had managed to find its way into the drain pipe. Once we removed the stoppage, and cleaned out the gunked up piping, everything worked well. If we could only find a permanent solution to the ripping door gasket (I have to buy one today; it's the 4th one!!!!).

BTW - I contacted GE about the problem, via email and phone, and they were clueless and not very helpful.

Apr 14, 2008 | GE Energy Star WCVH6260F Front Load Washer

11 Answers

GE frontloader door gasket ripped


Replacing gasket is fairly simple - need 2 people. UNPLUG FIRST - 1. Remove the plastic cover on top of machine that is mounted to back of control panel. 2. remove dispenser - push down on tab at back and it will slide all the way out. 3. Remove lower front cover by removing 3 screws holding it on bottom. 4. Remove 3 screws holding top panel on back of machine and slide cover back approximately 1 inch and lift off. 5. Remove the 3 screws that hold the control panel on - note these are different type of screw so keep track of which screw goes where - one of the screws is next to dispenser opening. Once this is done you can reach in to machine and disengage locking tab on right side under "washer temp" - have someone hold this part aside if you do not want to disconnect the cables. 6. Remove spring loaded wire securing door seal to front cover. 7. Remove the the 4 screws holding the front cover on. This item is a bit heavy so be careful. Disconnect the three door latch wire harness and place this aside. 8. On the right side of the gasket you will find the clamp screw that holds the seal to the drum - loosen this screw almost all the way and remove this wire clamp. carefully remove the two tube connections and remove the gasket completely. Take note how these were installed before removing. Now you can carefully clean the gasket seats on the drown and door and replace the gasket and reverse the steps to put the machine together. While you have the covers off it would make sense to remove and clean the pump strainer mounted on the lower cross support - this can be messy with lots of water coming out so go slowly and have plenty of towels and a shallow pan to catch the water with. HOPE this helps.

Nov 09, 2007 | GE Energy Star WCVH6260F Front Load Washer

1 Answer

Frontload Washer won't spin or wash.


check the door lock/ latch mechanism

Sep 17, 2007 | GE WSXH208A Front Load Washer

Not finding what you are looking for?
Washing Machines Logo

Related Topics:

95 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Washing Machines Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8147 Answers

Richard Roth
Richard Roth

Level 3 Expert

9472 Answers

Donald DCruz
Donald DCruz

Level 3 Expert

17129 Answers

Are you a Washing Machine Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...