Sticky residue on internal plastic plane on roof of lens cavity
Camera is a fujica st605n.I believe the residue comes from perishing of the gasket around the plastic plane.I have tried to use lens cleaner on a cotton bud but this only smeared the residue over the whole of the plane surface.What solvent could I use without damaging the plastic plane ?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Its very unusual for alcohol to leave a sticky residue, however try wiping over with vinegar, or even petrol that is for lighters. Put either on a cloth, (don't soak the cloth, just dampen it) and gently wipe, leave to dry. try that.
Your lens is not communicating with your camera, which could be a result of unclean electrical contacts on the lens. Just wipe the electrical contacts that you see on the lens with a dry cloth to remove any residues on them and try again. If this doesn't work, you may need to contact service personnel.
That fault is typical of the AE1 and closely related models such as the AT1.
First, try seeing if the camera works without the lens attached. If so, then the lens needs attention.
Otherwise, your camera is around thirty to forty years old and needs a thorough CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust). The internal lubricant films have dried-out and gummed up the workings. Also the foam light seals and mirror buffer will have either decayed to a sticky corrosive goo or will have gone further and dried out completely, falling away as black powder or gluing some parts together.
A professional CLA and a one-off foam replacement (modern material does not decay) isn't particularly cheap and far exceeds the residual value of the camera. But once it's done the camera should be good for many more years and there are huge numbers of high quality dirt-cheap lenses for it. Shoot on film or slide and scan the images and you have results which will still give any full frame dSLR a run for it's money.
Try to use a Canon specialist as they'll have scrap examples of your camera to cannibalise if spare parts are needed, but that model is really well made and unless you're unlucky then you should get away with a CLA and new foam.
Alternatively, unrestored examples are commonplace and cheap/free, so it's not a bad model to gain your own experience on if you're confident with electro-mechanical devices (the simpler AT1 is a better model to start learning on though as it has far less electronic parts). If you ruin it in the process then you gain experience and spare parts for the next attempt.
Like all AE-1's and related models, your camera is gumming up inside as the internal lubricant films are at least 25 years old and are largely dried-out.
The fix is to get the camera to a repair specialist for a CLA service (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust). As a one-off extra cost also get the foam light seals and foam mirror buffer replaced as they'll either be absent by now or will still be turning to a sticky goo. Modern foam is is different material and is will not decay like the old stuff.
A CLA and foam replacement definitely costs more than the residual value of the camera, but they're solidly built and have plenty of cheap high quality lenses so can still achieve results which compare well to even the best modern pro dSLR's. Get the work done and your camera will probably last until 35mm film ceases to be available. Your camera will also withstand conditions which you'd never dare risk a dSLR in.
Well, first - your Fuji is a 120 not 35mm camera and second, it is a range finder not SLR. But other than that, there maybe a shutter release lock on your release button that is worn. I'd say take it to a repair shop. These are the kinds of cameras that repairman can still fix. And it is well worth fixing properly. Good luck.
The best and cheapest way I have found is to use 91% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol...put a little on a paper towel, cloth, or cotton swab and rub the stick stuff off. I would also suggest putting on rubber gloves to keep the black stuff off your hands. Have fun.
it seems you have a dirty lens,sticky mechanisms prevent smooth movement of lens cause by excessive moisture,blurry foto cause by fungus on your lens,pls note dissambling ang cleaning your lens requires patience and rigourous training.
Shutter release capacitor needs replacing and is easy to replace on these models. Remove bottom cover ( 4 screws ) and locate the small 6v 220 microF capacitor and replace making sure you get the polarity right. ( these capacitors have life span of 10 years and then the rubber iside perishes and they leak.)