Question about Fuji GA645Zi 35mm SLR Camera

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Sticky residue on internal plastic plane on roof of lens cavity

Camera is a fujica st605n.I believe the residue comes from perishing of the gasket around the plastic plane.I have tried to use lens cleaner on a cotton bud but this only smeared the residue over the whole of the plane surface.What solvent could I use without damaging the plastic plane ?

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There is none I'm afraid. Iv'e tried everything!

What you need to do is use a tissue and some isoproyl alcohol. This won't dissolve the goo, but is effective as a cleaner nonetheless.

Posted on Feb 05, 2009

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How do i clean superglue from a lens?


The only thing you could possibly try is jewellers rouge or glass polishing paste, If the lens is glass you could try acetone ( nail polish remover) but it will dissolve any plastic so I'd put your chances of success at close to zero with that if there is plastic nearby. The lens is ruined, move on.

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I have purchased a nikon coolpix L22 digital camera 6 months back but now adays shutter of the camera not closed during power off of the camera.


The lens dust cover (sometimes called the shutter) can stick sometimes due to residue or sticky
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How to clean the focusing lens?


First question: where is the dust?
If the dust ist outside the cam: no problem. Try a soft brush and remove bigger particles, then take a thin microfibre cloth and clean the dust film on the lens. Be careful - every sand particle scratches the coating, so use the brush!
If the dust is internal it's more complicated.
May be the dust is on the focussing screen. If you dismout the lens, there is a litte lock on the top inside the cam. Do not open without having special tool. Each fingerprint on this little plastic plane is not removable. It's an extreme sensitive fresnell lens.
Don't try to clean that with cloth or brush. Only airflow is allowed.
If this dosn't help - use the Canon service or replace the focussing screen with a new one (as Example Canon EF-D).

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The lens itself is virtually worthless, possibly £10 at best and even then it needs to be flawless, in perfect working order and to have both front and rear protective caps. Collectors are really only interested in near mint examples of manufacturer's own brand lenses. Most lens buyers are now after lenses which work with digital SLR's and older lenses designed for 35mm film are often less than ideal or completely useless. Modern lenses are usually zoom models and fixed focal length primes like yours are less versatile.

Regarding the mounting, the serial number is no help. Look around the mounting for clues, it might have any of the following:-

N = Nikon
Ca, C, or MD = Canon
CY = Contax Yashica
O or OL = Olympus
M = Minolta
P, PK or P = Pentax
M42 = 42mm screw fit used on old SLR's, also Zenith and Practika
X = Fujica, this is rare so may be worth a little more but there are also very few Fujica owners anyway so may not sell at all.

If there are no clues that you can make sense of then take the camera along to a camera shop, preferably one which sells used 35mm film SLR's and they should be able to identify it for you.

I hope this has helped you, if so please rate my answer.

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Hi dear, You can clean with the lens cleaner. Use the Kodak lens cleaning paper only.

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Unless this is some weird act of G-d, like sap from a nearby tree or something I will stick to furnace facts. LOL. Anyway, this sounds like an incomplete combustion situation. Let me explain. During the combustion process many elements are necessary to facilitate "complete combustion". If the correct combination is not met, the result will be a blackish residue. If you combine this residue with the condensation that normally occurs in the flu system, it could turn muddy or sludgy. This is can be a dangerous situation due to the amount of carbon monoxide (poison gas) nessessary to create this residue (similar to the film in the tailpipe of your car).

I would suggest calling another reputable company that offers true "combustion analysis" reports. The test takes around 30 minutes and they should be able to confirm my diagnosis. This test should cost anywhere between 100 and 200.00(US). Many times a simple adjustment to the gas valve or burner assembly will due the trick. Best of luck!

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Unfortunately, cola in a camera of any kind is almost always fatal to the camera. The sugar residue with eat away at the plastic and electrical connections. Water is the only thing that will clean the soda (cola) from the camera, (also fatal to cameras). Removing the covers to the camera would give you better access to the damaged areas. I believe they used tri-head screws on the case screws. A proper sized flat blade screw driver and a bit of muscle will get theses screws out. Remove the battery as soon as possible. It is possible to flush or soak cameras with water, but you must dry them out quickly and throughly, best with clean compressed air. I wish you luck

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